peterjl Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Hi I have a Thule slide out step that stopped working. It has a warning buzzer not an automatic retract. Last weekend I started engine to drive off ramps and, as the buzzer was making a din, my wife pressed button and retracted step. All fine thus far. Went to use later and step not working. Dead as a dodo. No hint it’s jammed but any trace of movement. So the first step is to check the fuse, but where is it? I assume it runs from Elecktri block/hab battery but all those fuses are ok. There is no manual with wiring diagram. The dealer doesn’t know which fuse it is even though they are a Globecar dealer/ importer. Do t want to drive there cos it’s out of warranty plus round trip 260 miles but if I have to I will. Found Thule manual online and it’s a 16amp fuse, Soooooo, would this be fused from the hab unit or off the vehicle fuse box or just have its own fuse somewhere. I am not an electrician, I haven’t got a multimeter. But I think I will source one from amazon, if I can find one easy to use. Any thoughts, ideas, much appreciated. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninian Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Hi, Is it not possible to trace the cables leaving the step and see where they go as a starting point and that may lead you to the fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Hi Traci g the wiring is not straight forward. It all disappears i behind panelling. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Peter, With a Thule/Omnistep I would expect 4 wires to be connected to the step. The motor operating wires are coloured orange and violet. These wires will connect to the control switch. The other two wires at the switch will be +ve and -ve (earth) supply. The switch is normally connected so that when idle, both orange and violet wires are connected to supply -ve. Pressing the OUT button on the switch, connects the violet wire to the 12V +ve supply. The step extends. Pressing the IN button on the switch, connects the orange wire to the 12V +ve supply. The step retracts. The other two wires from the step are from the step IN limit switch, which is closed until the step is almost fully retracted. In your installation the limit switch is used to switch off the warning buzzer. Operation of the step is normally from the habiation battery, but this is not essential.. (In my PVC, operation via the switch is from the hab battery via a dedicated fuse on the CBE 12V board, while auto retract was from the cab or starter battery.) There can be problems with the control switch failing to connect either +ve or -ve as appropriate to the motor wires. As regards the location of the supply fuse, does the Globecar manual contain a circuit diagram. or fuse list? Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Thanks Alan. Globecar don’t have a manual so it’s a bit of guess work. Thank you for the info, in the next couple of days I will tray and check the switch as, with a bit of fiddling, I can get to. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Peter, Re the fuse: On earlier Globecars with either the EBL99 (Electroblock), or the later EBL119, the step was fused along with the basic lights (i.e. those not switched off via the control panel 12V isolator) on the EBL fuse marked as "Grundlicht/Trittstufe" (if labelled in German). This should be the second from left in the long run of fuses (to the right of the battery on/off switch), and conventionally I'd expect it to be fused at 25A. If you have (as I suspect) an EBL119, I can't see any reason why this wouldn't apply to your 2018 'van. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Thank you RobinHood, that’s really useful. I will go out this pm and have a play. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwsm2000 Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Just to add that some EBLs (eg EBL223) use a resettable fuse that trips on over current and resets itself a few seconds after the short has been removed. I agree that it is most likely that the fuse has blown (assuming it is not the resettable type). A 25A fuse seems high given that this current goes through the control switch in most configurations. In my opinion, this switch is under rated and takes a fair bit of abuse (electrically!). When the step reaches its end point, the motor stalls and you get a big increase in current. For this reason, you should get into the habit of releasing the switch immediately the step "clunks" at the end of its travel. I think Thule make a control module that over comes this problem by switching off as soon as the current reaches a certain level. If your display panel gives battery current, it might be worth checking if this increases when you try to operate the step. If the motor has siezed up, you should see an increase of several amps (but don't press it for too long). If you do not see any change, it is probably a fuse / control switch / broken wire / motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Update Ok, pretty certain I checked the fuse RobinHood suggested when I went through them yesterday. Nevertheless pulled it out - the dropped it!,,,,,grrrrrrrr, somewhere inaccessible.... double grrrrrr. I will order some spare fuses for tomorrow and try again. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Update 2 Right, I bummed a replacement fuse from a local BMW garage, Referring to Robinhoods post, I do not have any lights that work when hab electrics off BUT we do have an electric door closer and that stopped working when fuse out. Also there is some German writing just visible which seems to say that the 25amp fuse is for the step. Soooo, I now know the fuse is ok. Next step ( pun unintended) is to get a multimeter and test voltage at the switch. As I have to deconstruct a draw to get at the back of the switch this stage will have to wait until we get back from the Lakes in 10 days. I will keep you posted. Many thanks for all the very helpful posts. For a non electrician it gives a little confidence that I am on the right track. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Peter, I do not know what make of switches are used on your Globecar. With the popular CBE switches it is possible to unscrew them from the front, and you should then be able to pull out the wiring far enough for testing. Much better than having your head and shoulders in a cupboard. With CBE switches, prise off the surround to reveal the support frame which is retained by two No.4 woodscrews. Removing the support frame will reveal the screws that hold the switch module in place. For other makes of switch, I would expect something similar. Perhaps others can advise. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Alanb - 2020-10-20 3:40 PM Peter, I do not know what make of switches are used on your Globecar. ...unless they've recently changed they'll be Berker, which are essentially the same as CBE but a different shaped centre. Your comments on removal from the front apply equally to the Berker variant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 peterjl - 2020-10-20 2:43 PM Referring to Robinhoods post, I do not have any lights that work when hab electrics off TBH, Peter, I can't remember whether or not I did on my 2015 'van. Wiring practice seems to differ from year-to-year, but it is conventional to leave "entrance" lighting (i.e. that which can be switched from the door, or is automatically switched from the door being opened) active even when the panel 12v switch is off. I'm working from EBL99/119 user manuals and a 2011 Globecar manual, the former setting out the capability, and the latter strongly implying that there was some such lighting protected by the step fuse in that year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 peterjl - 2020-10-19 10:09 PM Globecar don’t have a manual so it’s a bit of guess work. Peter I definitely got a manual with my 2015 'van. There is a reasonably accessible 2011 manual available online, but the 2018 manual is freely available in German here: https://www.globecar.de/globecar/pdf/bedienungsanleitungen/ba_globecar.pdf (I realise that it might as well be in Greek if you don't speak German, but that and a bit of Google translate might help with specific questions). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 peterjl - 2020-10-20 2:43 PM Update 2 Right, I bummed a replacement fuse from a local BMW garage, Referring to Robinhoods post, I do not have any lights that work when hab electrics off BUT we do have an electric door closer and that stopped working when fuse out. Also there is some German writing just visible which seems to say that the 25amp fuse is for the step. Soooo, I now know the fuse is ok. Next step ( pun unintended) is to get a multimeter and test voltage at the switch. As I have to deconstruct a draw to get at the back of the switch this stage will have to wait until we get back from the Lakes in 10 days. I will keep you posted. Many thanks for all the very helpful posts. For a non electrician it gives a little confidence that I am on the right track. Peter Peter, you can download the Thule Slide out Step manual (and spare parts lists etc.) from the Thule website, here: https://tinyurl.com/y5gm5wtr You can also download an English Globecar manual here: https://tinyurl.com/y4r28zgt Any use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Thank you everybody. Re manuals - this is my third Globecar and I remain very happy with the build quality and use ability. I think I had manuals with previous models but never looked in my pack for one when I purchased. I have phoned and been told there is no longer one available but i will peruse this. Removing switches: if I can remove from the front that will be great. I will have a very careful try and see if it will come off. Re step manual. I have now downloaded. Thank you everybody. Great support from the forum Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 The Berker switch commonly fitted to operate an electric step is the one shown by the 1st image attached below. Removal should just require the front surround being carefully prised off (easy enough) and the screws behind it undone. An alternative switch (as used on my Rapido) is the twin-rocker type (2nd image below). The removal procedure should be no different. (There might be a protective cover on the rear of the switch (3rd image below) but that should not affect removal) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 Thank you Derek. I am awaiting delivery of a multimeter. I will then try and gain access to the switch ( the first photo) and then try and learn how to use the meter - how complicated can it be. I will find out. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 Alanb - 2020-10-19 10:04 PM Peter, With a Thule/Omnistep I would expect 4 wires to be connected to the step. The motor operating wires are coloured orange and violet. These wires will connect to the control switch. The other two wires at the switch will be +ve and -ve (earth) supply. The switch is normally connected so that when idle, both orange and violet wires are connected to supply -ve. Pressing the OUT button on the switch, connects the violet wire to the 12V +ve supply. The step extends. Pressing the IN button on the switch, connects the orange wire to the 12V +ve supply. The step retracts. The other two wires from the step are from the step IN limit switch, which is closed until the step is almost fully retracted. In your installation the limit switch is used to switch off the warning buzzer. Operation of the step is normally from the habiation battery, but this is not essential.. (In my PVC, operation via the switch is from the hab battery via a dedicated fuse on the CBE 12V board, while auto retract was from the cab or starter battery.) Right, with your guidance I have taken cover off the switch and unscrewed and withdrawn the switch. The wires in and out are as described above. I have purchased a Draper pocket multimeter. Soooooo my plan is to set the dial on the meter to 20 DcV and then test the following Pull off the blue and brown wires and connect to meter with the probes to make sure I have power, i think this should read 12v If I have power I need to check the switch. As the step is not sliding out I was going to put probes on brown (-be)connection and violet (+be) connect, depress switch and see if power going through switch. Is my plan correct. You can tell I am not an electrician. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 peterjl - 2020-10-21 5:50 PM.....................................If I have power I need to check the switch. As the step is not sliding out I was going to put probes on brown (-be)connection and violet (+be) connect, depress switch and see if power going through switch. Is my plan correct. You can tell I am not an electrician. Peter To test the switch you'll need to set the meter to measure resistance (Ohms "O"). This will use the meter battery and measure the resistance of the switch terminals. Usually the display will show 1 when the meter is turned on, and if you touch the two probes together this will change to a reading close to 0. If you then apply the probes to the switch terminals as you intend, with the switch in the off position you should see 1, and with the switch in the on position you should see approximately the same value as when the probes are touched together. This will tell you that the switch is functioning as it should, with infinite resistance (i.e. no current flow) when the switch of off, and near 0 resistance (i.e unimpeded current flow) when it is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 Thank you Brian.. I am going to try tomorrow. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 21, 2020 Author Share Posted October 21, 2020 Robinhood - 2020-10-20 4:32 PM peterjl - 2020-10-19 10:09 PM Globecar don’t have a manual so it’s a bit of guess work. Peter I definitely got a manual with my 2015 'van. There is a reasonably accessible 2011 manual available online, but the 2018 manual is freely available in German here: https://www.globecar.de/globecar/pdf/bedienungsanleitungen/ba_globecar.pdf (I realise that it might as well be in Greek if you don't speak German, but that and a bit of Google translate might help with specific questions). Thank you, RobinHood, for the link. I have downloaded to my iPad so I will always have it. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 Update 3 There is pow er to the. Switch. About 14 v across the input wires The switch is working correctly with power coming out, about 14v on both the out switch and the in switch. Soooooo, next phase is to drop the step out. I will disconnect power at the switch cos I am very wary of the step mechanics. But this stage is after we get home please it needs some dry weather. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Peter, for my own diversion I've had a go at translating the up-to-date manual from German to English using automated tools. I've ended up with a PDF which is not perfect in layout, but is largely readable in English, which may be an improvement. It's too big to add as an attachment, but can be downloaded (safely) from here for the next 21 days: http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=gb0138831e9f0af691000291880546cb0ddf857fbd6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted November 12, 2020 Author Share Posted November 12, 2020 Update So, I tried to remove step to have a look. Held by 2 bolts at back, they come off easily. At the front three screws each side into a bracket, five screws came out easily but the sixth!!! The screw is at front and takes all the crap. Soooo, tried soaking in penetrating oil for a few days, tried tapping with hammer, tried heating with a hair dryer. No luck eventually tried brute force and the star head screw burred. Next tried to remove from bracket at that side, took off nut but it must be stuck on, tapped with hammer still no joy. Not sure what to try except drilling out which I am wary of cos I will be down to two screws when I reattach See pic Ideas, thoughts welcome. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.