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Thanks very much for the prompt replies and certainly some food for thought, with Burgos sounding good. We've had Haro mentioned to us, as the 'capital of the Rioja' wine region - has anyone been there, as that also sound like a decent spot? At one point we considered Pamplona, but couldn't find a decent site. I don't know if anyone has been there?

We are getting the ferry to Santander in May next year, then meeting other friends in the Pyrenees a week later. We don't know the area at all and certainly fancy Pamplona, but we are open to suggestions for other places to stay for a couple of nights. Santander looks a fine place, but the campsites don't look great, have we got this wrong? Any suggestions for interesting towns with history/architecture/atmosphere/walking etc? We'd generally prefer 'proper' sites rather than Aires or wild camping.