headscratching_draig

Plan B. Rubber toothed drive belt.

https://www.igus.co.uk/product/iglidur_S270GM-GR?artnr=S270GM-GR-050-00-250-040-045 Plan A. Repair existing table with a purpose made gear rack. I will post updates.

Hello internet. Is it possible to buy a replacement rail for my van? The teeth have ripped off making the table unsteady.

Bed is back in! That was a very challenging project and we are delighted with the result. - It is a 3 person job - 3 x 2" or CLS is essential to use as a canterlever when taking down and putting back up. - to remove the frame take the following out in order: 1. Remove anything on dashboard. 2. Remove mirror from headlining & electrics. 3. Remove internal frames from window. 4. Remove headlining and twist out to store in back of van. 5. Remove blinds, and blind shelves covers. 6. Remove mattress. 7. Remove 13mm strut bolts. 8. Remove trailing arm 13mm bolts. 9. Remove 13mm dampner bolts. 10. Support frame and unscrew both sides. 11. Using seatbelt roof clip lower down using a rope. We put thick cable ties through as a lowering point. 12. The 3 x 2" supports the back of the bed and the whole frame bows towards the dashboard. We used an old duvet to rest her on. If you are reading this and tempted to have a go, it can be done. Good luck.

I have made up some A frames to take the majority of the bed weight while we fettle getting the plates into the correct position. Using new screws to mount the plate as the old ones had degraded. Until tomorrow.

We stained the 6mm ply with wood dye to get it close to the original finish. The majority will be behind the bed curtain. The wall is now braced with plasterboard struts in preparation for reinstallation of the bed.

Here you can see the tight fit into the recess prior to screw and glue to good existing surround. This will all be covered by a single sheet of 6mm ply which we are going to wood stain to an orange colour to match the cedar. This will be glued over all joints creating a single section to reattach the bed through. Initial plan is to either use a motorbike scissors platform to raise bed into place or 2 car jacks with a wooden box on top.

Created cardboard stencil template to cut marine ply from. I used 2 x 12mm sections from the template to fit flush to existing internal board that was good.

I have made a cardboard stencil of the rotten panel. Measure width, depth and difference in height off the passenger door. Marked pencil off on the good drivers side. Confident we are on course for a good refit. Much thanks for all ideas and support.

Surprising. One would think an A Class is winterised. We could take this opportunity of adding a thermal layer to the fiberglass cab area.

Good idea on the trolley jack. I might end up building a platform in the cab to jack from so we can take the weight of the frame. Noted on panel thickness. Will probably sand back a thicker board to correct depth and then bond to wood hardened layer.

The rot has tracked upwards from the window. There is a thin veneer of ply left on the aluminium external side. We will use wood hardener on this and then fill the internal space with marine ply. Interestingly this section of the van was ply and not insulated which surprises me for an A Class MH. Externally has been sealed with Sika. Will now use directed fan heat and dehumidifier to dry out any further internal dampness.

Supported resting on dash

Ok it is possible to do! 3 able people. Utilising the top seatbelt clip to take the weight and 3" x 2" timber to support the middle. Once the side screws holding the frame forward are taken out the whole bed frame can be rotated forward. Then held in place resting on dashboard by another supporting 3 x 2. Huge progress. Note the paper over the end panel bracket to prevent damage

The intention is to leave the door and window well alone and repair above. This will be from the white box above down and across to the right above the window and door. Advice on the board to replace would be helpful. If we cannot find a premade insulation board then we intend to use 3mm marine ply with an insulation sandwiched between.

Thanks for the pointer on spreader bar support. The rot on the near side looks extensive and we intend to replace the whole inner side above the door so will be unable to put a support panel here.

The leak was coming from above the passenger door and the nearside window. This has then tracked upward. As the rot has become worse so the weight of the bed pulls inwards. This then makes sealing the window/door futile. We plan on removing the driver side inner window frame covers today to allow more room to move the frame at an angle and thus move it. We are also going to remove the thermal blinds and tracking to prevent damage. I can report back that I have removed the struts and linkage bar with relative ease. I will document the whole removal and repair process for others.

Thanks for the offer. The strut removal seems ok but I don't think that will assist with the bed removal. One wonders how it was installed into the van in the first place.....

Hi David, Thanks for your message. How did you disassemble the bed please? Did you do this in-situ? I note your warning about the strut. I have managed to reduce the strut length and tension by removing the dampener bolt which limits the pivot. If I can split the frame apart from the pivot hinges (shown in the image) then I will be well into the job. Thanks in advance Jamie

Rapido, 2004, 985F

Hello internet, Please can I have some ideas on the removal of a very heavy drop down motorhome bed? The bed is screwed either side into the wall panel and the moving hinges are vinyl bushes. The image attached is one of these bushes. My plan is to attempt to split the bed down to a more managable size so it can be moved inside the van without having to do anything drastic such as take the front window out! Does this hinge come apart? Looking at it there seems to be some form vinyl bush slides over welded spike on the wall plate. Plan B was to use ratched straps x 2 to attempt to squeeze the frame sideways to allow wriggle room but I think this could damage the moving hinges/hinge arms. Any pointers or alternative suggestions on how i can get the bed off the wall would be most gratefully received.