Tricky Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Hi, I would like to do a DIY tow bar job on my Hymer. Is there any one who has had one fitted, and could let me have the details. I was in the motor world for thirty years as a fitter. I'm confident in doing the work I just need the details. Thanks Tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ned Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Hi' Couple of questions you will need to ask yourself before you start. Firstly is your chassis an Alko one. If it is you will find that the holes are already drilled at the side of the chassis. The first two from the back are the fastening holes and are 145mm centres apart. The two holes further down the chassis take the cross member that will run diagonally to the back chassis member where there are two more holes either side to take the other end of the corner brace. The corner braces should be either 'u' section or square section with 45deg end plates with the respective holes drilled in. The side members of the towbar are to be made from 10mm plate and the actual bar should be made from 75 x 75 tube with a wall thickness of 3mm. the method you choose to bring the towball plate away from the towbar is up to you but remember to make sure that it is substantial in order to take the load you put it under. Finally, you can buy 10mm towball plates, predrilled with two towball positions from Towsure. If your chassis is not alko then construction shopuld be the same but you will probably need 10mm reinforcing plates( like large washers) on the inside of the rear members. If your van is pre 2005 you don't need to meet any rules or regulations. New vans have to be certificated.............. I think Hope this helps Keep em waxed.... Ned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1956 Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 I would use box section for the crossbar and not tube. I made my own and got a few off cuts from the local metal shop for £20, its an easy job. Use good qualty bolts etc with nylocks. and fit end caps to the crossbar. michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davenewellhome Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 75mmX75mm tube is box section Terry. Or Rolled Hollow Section (RHS in the trade) to be more accurate. D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1956 Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 H dave, Well I never, after doing my C&G back in 1973 and HNC later, I never knew that box section was called tube. anyway the rest stands and its an easy job to do, just make sure the welds are good and strong, I only have a mig welder at home so also used brackets on the crossbar to tail legs, as migs are not so great at times in giving a deep strong weld, an arc welder would be better for this job. michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ned Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 GI Guys Yep sorry about the use of the wrong terminology. I did mean 'Box section'. Another thing that springs to mind is that you should use high tensile bolts for attaching the tow frame to the chassis with Nylocks or is it nilocks of course! Cheers....... Ned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted November 22, 2008 Author Share Posted November 22, 2008 Hi Ned, thanks very much for your help and advice, I'm sure I will not have any trouble making and fitting a tow bar. It's a pity you had some stick over the terminology but I knew what you meant, thanks again Tricky. *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davenewellhome Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 terry1956 - 2008-11-21 10:21 AM H dave, Well I never, after doing my C&G back in 1973 and HNC later, I never knew that box section was called tube. anyway the rest stands and its an easy job to do, just make sure the welds are good and strong, I only have a mig welder at home so also used brackets on the crossbar to tail legs, as migs are not so great at times in giving a deep strong weld, an arc welder would be better for this job. michael Hi Terry, the thing is "tube" does not have to be circular, just hollow. As for the MIG welder not being able to make a deep penetrating weld I'm afraid I have to disagree with you. The ability to create penetration during welding is entirely down to the power of the welding set, whether it be MMA (Manual Metal Arc) or MIG (Metal Inert Gas). My own small MIG set is capable of giving full penetration welds on steel up to 5mm thick, my mate (who owns a fabrication business) has a set that can give full penetration on steel up to 20mm thick! What subjects did you do in your C&G and HND? I only ask as they don't necessarily have anything to do with engineering. My two daughters have between them a C&G qualification and an HND, the C&G qualification is for cooking and the HND is for fashion design and knitwear. Not trying to be a smart a**e, just trying to clarify a few details :-) ;-) ;-) D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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