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Increasing water pressure


Jackal

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Nothing really wrong with our water pressure but would like to know if there are any ways of increasing the pressure so that the power from our shower is a bit more like a domestic shower.

 

At the moment we only really use it in extremis but would be tempted to use it more if the pressure were greater.

 

Having read through a few posts, it would seem that a higher pressure pump may cause joints to leak. Has anyone any direct experience of this happening?

 

Lots of info elsewhere on A Class Hymers but as ours is "only" a C Class and newer, am not sure as to the applicability of some of the advice given.

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Has anyone ever fitted an in-line booster pump such as those sold by Whale?

 

This and changing the shower head have been suggested but still a little worried by leaks at joints, I must confess.

 

Forgot to say that we currently have a submersible pump and a Truma 6002 boiler.

 

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Peter,

 

Capacity, i.e. the ability to get more water through the pump into the pipes and boiler???

 

Whale seem to quote figures for Head Flow Rate at certain distances, e.g. 13.4 litres at 0m and 9.8 litres at 1m.

 

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If your flow rate is ok at the taps, I would be tempted to check the shower hose is not partially blocked. The internal hose inside the spiral outer bit may have collapsed or got a kink in it. ...if it is this kind of hose you have.

Jon.

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Submerged pumps are normally triggered by micro-switches on the water taps, which means that pressure within the water system remains relatively low.

 

Uprating the pump should help and should be reasonably 'safe' as far the leak risk factor is concerned, but, before doing this, it would be sensible to follow Brambles' advice and check that the shower-hose (and shower head) is not obstructing the flow.

 

Logically, a Hymer's shower should function OK - otherwise Continental-European motorcaravanners would not tolerate it.

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But do bear in mind that the higher the pressure the greater the flow rate and the sooner your hot tank, followed by cold tank, will empty!

 

There won't be any more hot water but you will use it all quicker which is OK if that is what you want!

 

It might be better to consider accepting a low but adequate flow rate as preferable to the unknown behaviour that changing any components might bring to the whole water system?

 

If it ain't broke - don't fix it, is maybe worthy of consideration with a complex motorhome water system which is inter dependent on several separate items?

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I had to replace the pump (19 litres per minute at 1.4 bar) in my Hymer as it kept blowing the fuse and the increase in flow rate at the taps is amazing, even the flush in the WC goes all the way round the bowl.   The old pump must have been well worn or clogged and could only have been working at about 60%.  I am now very conscious that I can drain the water tank very quickly.

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Great post Doonhamer, spot on ,had the same problem and cured it the same way, incidentley, a fitter at Hymer UK told me they sometimes reverse the connections at the pump and often this shows an improvement in pressure. *-) *-)
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The same effect can often be gained at a fraction of the cost by just replacing the pump filters and non return valves - if you can get the parts.
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