Wingpete Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Is there any good method of ensuring a tap to the wash room basin does not freez, and subsequently break. ? I drained down before putting van into store shed, including leaving taps open, but this past weekend enabled me ( water leaking from tap base) to discover that is not good enough, so new tap on order at cost of £108 ! Will I have to wrap the tap in wooly cover to prevent recurrence ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ocsid Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I actually blow through the taps with a short bit of flexible hose to make sure any water "slug" is either blown out the drain tap of parked in the flexible pipework where it freezing is no great issue. I know its not ideal hygiene-wise but after 45 years I doubt we can cross contaminate each other much more. So far the technique has not let me down; I have checked! Best done prior to drive back to base, so vehicle movement assists. I include the shower by taking off the head/handle piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Hi, Only way I know is to use lots of puff and blow down the taps to clear any residual water. After you recover from the ruptured lung and heart attack, you know longer care if frozen or not. But it does seem to work. I try and drain down by opening highest taps first and then work my way around them. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spospe Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Wrapping taps is pointless, just get all the water out. No water = no ice = no freeze You may have to blow through the tap / pipes to get all the water out. In our van I use the shower hose as an easy way of getting some puff into the system. This works well and I have not had any trouble getting the last dregs out ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilmac Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 We've been extra careful this year after having same trouble as you last year (broken Whale mixer). Gave the matter much thought and this year drained down as follows: pump off and open taps in central position then open tank drain and let it all go. I reckon that the syphonic action of draining this way will 'pull' any water away from the taps. When finished lower shower head to empty any residue there, seems ok. Only thing not completely comfortable with is whether any water may remain in pump, wouldn't want to activate it though as if so, water will be sent back up to the tap ends.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 neilmac - 2010-02-02 5:19 PM Only thing not completely comfortable with is whether any water may remain in pump, wouldn't want to activate it though as if so, water will be sent back up to the tap ends.... If (as seems probable) your motorhome has a diaphragm-type pump (eg. a SHURflo), then the only certain way of ensuring that it's 'dry' inside is to disconnect the pump from the water system on both its inlet and outlet sides and then run the pump until no more water emerges from its outlet. Conversely, you can drain the water system making every effort that there's no water remaining in the taps or shower-control and hope that the pump will survive throughout the winter even though there will be water inside it. My personal experience is that SHURflo pumps seem able to tolerate being frozen solid without suffering damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin weston Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 It is recommended that the Shurflow diaphragm pump is run with the inlet and outlet hoses disconnected to get rid of as much water as possible. This is a bit of a pain on my Autocruise Starburst as whilst the pump is reasonably accessible one has to be careful during reassembly not to cross the threads on the inlet. The other complication is that there is a water pump inhibit when the fresh water tank is less than quarter full. I always try and do all my draining before I leave the last campsite (both summer and winter) and leave the taps open on the way home to expel as much water as possible. I only drain the pump during the winter. Despite the handbook saying that the pump should not be run dry I was assured by Shurflo that it is not a problem and you can't get all the water out anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 If anyone has a Shurflo pump fitted it is always wise to unscrew the filter bowl and allow any water to drain off into a jug then run the pump for a few seconds to purge it then refit the gauge filter and bowl and tighten it back up. It isn't wise to leave the external drain taps open as you will allow cold air back into the system. Another way of protecting the system is to place hot water bottles near the pump and boiler. Another thing to do is make sure the engine heater air duct is in the closed position or you could open the bonnet and put a womans shower cap over the air intake but remember to remove it before you start the engine. All the ventilation air vents could be temporally blocked off as well. I've mentioned just a few ways to help prevent a total freeze up of motorhome water systems but you can always leave a heater on low if a power point is available. A womans hair dryer can be used to slowly warm any frozen up areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnP Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 I always drain down before the final journey home and leave taps in the open central position. All drain point left open. Vehicle movement going home helps to clear any drops of water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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