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Door Security


Geoff Tuckley

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Hello, Folks,

 

Been looking at the security angle on the habitation area of our SeA Sharky L1. The lock on the door seems fairly frail to me and it probably wouldn't take some little scrote with a good screwdriver long to smash the barrel. Been looking at the "Fiamma" range on the net and have narrowed it down to 2 types of security device. I have already fitted a screamer alarm which would wake the dead if the door is opened but when this goes off the damage has already been done so I was thinking that something visible from the outside might make a difference. The products I have seen consist of:

(a) A solid, aluminium block which hinges to cover the doorlock and then locks with it's own "High security Lock". It overlaps the door by possibly 10 - 15 cms so also would stop the door accidentally opening when in transit.

or

(b) A handrail which folds across the door and has the same effect but although more visible does not cover the doorlock itself.

Both items come with internal strengthening brackets and fasten to the motorhome body in the same way.

 

Anyone any experience of these and what is your verdict on them?

 

Thanks

 

Geoff

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I've used both in the past and the 'D' handle gives wider coverage of the door, a more obvious visual deterrent and might be handy as a handrail in your dotage whereas the swinging lock block type can look neater.

 

Both lock well but the locks will need a dollop of WD40 from time to time as they are not made from particularly weatherproof materials

 

The biggest consideration is space inside the van to fit and access the backing plates / load spreader and it's nuts and washers as many door frames are beside a cupboard or kitchen unit which often restricts access.

 

Whatever you decide it is a good visual deterrent but do measure up carefully before drilling any holes!

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both these are pretty good , i have the d handle and fitted it with an extra strengthener inside, it is also adjusted to cover the lock. and after one to many glases of wine it gives something to aim at when entering. as far as ripping this off. i would think you would have to be away from the van , and it parked in a quiet spot for no one to notice, if i was the toerag i would not go to all that trouble, much easier to lob a brick through the side window. >:-)
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Which raises an interesting point.  It would be unusual for a van to be broken into when it was known to be occupied.  So, almost by definition, it will be when it is unattended that forced entry may be attempted.  In effect, because vans usually have to be parked away from car parks and other central locations, they are liable to be parked in "quiet spots" and so vulnerable to exactly this kind of force.

What has a would be thief to lose?  He grabs the D handle in both hands, sticks his foot against the side of the van, and heaves.  If the handle breaks away, he is as good as in.  If it doesn't, he will have caused substantial damage.  If and alarm sounds, he merely walks away.  On balance therefore, unless the D handle is actually required as an aid to entry, which is its primary function, I would say a supplementary lock that does not provide so efficient a lever would be preferable.

At to bricks through windows.  Probably not going to succeed on acrylic windows.  Much easier to get the fingers under the sides of the acrylic pane and pull.  The odds are the flimsy standard plastic window catches will give in quietly, and your thief is in.  Brick through cab window?  Easy.  Deadlocks will prevent the cab door being opened - but not all vans come with these as standard.  Even so, can the catches for a window, or the habitation door, be reached through an open (i.e. missing) cab window?  One needs to look at a lot more than just the habitation door, when deciding where the greatest vulnerability lies.  I think cab doors first, unless deadlocked.  Close second, habitation door, but not a D handle unless required to assist mobility.

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I did post this on another group as security but will repeat here. My door was damaged exactly as suggested. Any screwdriver forced into a lock and turned with a spanner will turn the whole lock round and open the door. Also it breaks the barral lock and I had to get mine drilled out because the pins stopped the key fully entering the lock with the barral removed and therefore could not get the tangs to release.

A new barral cost 8 eurines but a whole day was wasted fixing it.

I tested yesterday a device that lets people walk past my MH door within 4 feet with no problem but, if approached within 3 feet from facing the door the alarm will go off.

Similarly sneaking up sideways towards the door the alarm will go off when 6 feet is reached

I i

ntend to fit a sensor to each cab door in the same way so that warning is givebn before damage can be done.

Obviously these sensors are at a height so that they are out of reach are removeable and waterproof, can be switched off when not required and are cheap. We all have steps with us so are easily got at when necessary.

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I make no excuses for blatantly taking some info from another forum which I intend to use.

 

Go to www.security-labels.co.uk. They have quite cheap wireless PIR`s and alarms which can be very suitable for fitting (on a temporary basis, ie: removable) to a motorhome or caravan. They cost beween £20 and £30.

 

As a wildcamper, I think they will be useful while sleeping in the van.

 

As Brian Kirby pointed out, break ins occur when the van is left unattended. Some owners buy a pair of walkie talkies and leave one in the van (set to vox) and listen in while shopping. As some French Supermarkets car parks seem to be dodgy, they may help. The problem is that the thieves are probably in and out in seconds.

 

BTW has anyone tried the alarms that use a voice recording, such as "move away from the vehicle" and are they any good?

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dikyenfo - 2010-03-05 11:27 AM

 

 

I tested yesterday a device that lets people walk past my MH door within 4 feet with no problem but, if approached within 3 feet from facing the door the alarm will go off.

Similarly sneaking up sideways towards the door the alarm will go off when 6 feet is reached

I i

ntend to fit a sensor to each cab door in the same way so that warning is givebn before damage can be done.

Obviously these sensors are at a height so that they are out of reach are removeable and waterproof, can be switched off when not required and are cheap. We all have steps with us so are easily got at when necessary.

 

 

 

these sound good where can i buy them?

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Depending on whether your door entry handle is one of the two that these are available for, we use a Brightlock see

 

http://www.brightlock.com/

 

one advantage of these is that they can be left in place and the door used whether you are in or out of the vehicle. We were a bit scepticle at first but as a device to stop the average 'scrote' from screwdrivering the barrel it is good, nothing will stop the determined professional.

 

Bas

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Hi silverback,

 

To find the right alarms, go to the website I gave, click on "personal alarms". A new web page comes up and if you click on "outside security" it should show you the types of alarm available.

 

 

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Colin, next time you "crack a crib", ( I believe that is the correct terminology!), could you grab me a handful of the "swag", (anything over half a mill will suffice), contact me via PM and we'll meet to hand over the readies! Used notes only please, natch!

 

Then it's off to Rio for me! :-D

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Tomo

That was a previous life for HMG all legal I assure you but tempting but HMG do give me a handsome pension.

Back to the serious bit alarms are all very well but since most thieves are in and out in double quick time an alarm will not bother them for the first minute first line of defence should always be physical security.

I have fitted Union dead locks 3 for about £45 but look for double throw mine are 32mm more engagement and will allow for wider door gaps.They are only 3 lever (keyed alike)and would be easy meat for a sophisticated attack but that aint gona a happen.

With dead locks fitted if you enter via window or sky light then you must exit via same so they dont bother with mine and move on to yours.

GET MORTICE DEAD LOCKS FITTED

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Guest peter
How would it stop them Colin? They wouldn't know you had thm fitted until they'd already screwdrivered you locks.
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As I have said ther is no perfect answer and there will always be some scum bag that is to stupid to know he can't suceed.Even if doors damaged you may well have prevented him entering very usefull if your asleep inside,better a damaged door than a ransacked vehicle.

Once fitted mortice dead locks are obvious there is an extra key hole also put a small notice at each door "THIS VEHICLE IS FITTED WITH DEADLOCKS"

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Thanks, Folks,

Interesting about the handle being able to be forced and taking that into account I shall probably go for the solid block type.

You are right, of course, deadlocks are the answer but I am trying to deter any would be scrote from actually trying by showing some security measure on the outside of the van. For any who get in there is always the baseball bat (Does anyone actually buy these to play baseball?) We only stay on sites either here or in Europe and they are all pretty secure but we were on a site in the Wirral in the summer and some sh..t had tried to force the door of a van belonging to a Spanish family. There are notices all over the site instructing you not to leave anything in your awning. What impression did the Spaniard go home with?

Whilst in Spain recently we were talking to a British family who woke in the night to fing an intruder in the motorhome. He left quickly but when the guy woke people in the vans parked around them, it became apparent that he had already screwed two others. They were parked on a motorway Aire with five other vans and wagons.

Although it is pretty safe on sites there are always the French and British supermarket car parks and such. When you go into the likes of a supermarket the the scrotes have enough intelligence to know that you will be gone for a fair while.

So, yes, a deadlock on the habitation door will be a must and I shall fit the block type of cover to the exterior.

Well done and thanks everyone, lots of usefull information.

 

Geoff

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