Jump to content

Alloy wheels...Aaaggghhhh


Guest peter

Recommended Posts

Guest peter

Needed to take off one of the alloys from the sprinter base hehicle today to sort out a plumbing problem.

It was the most difficult removal I've ever experienced. Took out all the 6 bolts and the wheel wouldn't budge, it was solid on the hub. Even belting the wheel (suitably protected) with a dead blow hammer did nothing.

So I had a look on the web for a solution, as I thought that there must be something I'd missed, holding it on. Aparrently it's common on merc's and someone suggested pouring a kettle of boiling water over the hub, then belting it again, it worked and off it popped.

So all you guys who have spare wheels to use in case of a puncture, I suggest you do a dry run on all wheels first. As you wouldn't belive how hard it was to free just the wheel nuts. I had to use a jack on the wrench as they were probably last put on with an air ratchet gun. Also with alloys, the wheel corrodes on the hub due to galvanic corrosion. So before replacing them, put some copper based grease on the mating surfaces to stop them sticking in future. God knows how I would have done it at the side of the road and a breakdown service would have been sorely pressed as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

peter - 2011-06-01 10:41 PM

 

.................... So before replacing them, put some copper based grease on the mating surfaces to stop them sticking in future. ....................

You sure about the wisdom of that, Peter? I have always understood the standard guidance is no grease, on faying surfaces, on stud/bolt threads, or on bolt/nut shoulders.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brian Kirby - 2011-06-01 11:10 PM

 

peter - 2011-06-01 10:41 PM

 

.................... So before replacing them, put some copper based grease on the mating surfaces to stop them sticking in future. ....................

You sure about the wisdom of that, Peter? I have always understood the standard guidance is no grease, on faying surfaces, on stud/bolt threads, or on bolt/nut shoulders.

 

I believe peter meant the rear face of wheel and face of hub, not studs/nuts/bolts, and yes I always do this on alloys but I use Duralac jointing compound.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alloys often stick to their hubs due to electrolytic corrosion and yes copper grease or a proprietary anti sioeze compound smeared lightly over the mating surfaces is a good idea, just don't put too much on as it makes a right mess when centrifuged out onto the wheel rim.

 

D.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple of tips, (not that any self respecting man would EVER take advice from a girlie).

 

1st. Replace the manufacturers wheel wrench with a good quality deep impact socket and speed bar.

 

2nd. As already suggested, use copper grease on the contact surfaces between wheel and hub.

 

3rd. If you forgot the grease and the wheel/hub have had a bonding session and refuse to be parted, lie down and use your feet to stamp on each side of the wheel as quickly and as hard as you can, this action will usually work with van wheels ( it works with a 44 tonne tractor unit anyway).

 

Finally. Always carry an axle stand, and use it when you jack up the van, especially if you intend bashing and banging at a wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest peter

Ah..but you only know these things because you heard a man tell his mate them in a pub. :D

 

Seriously though, it makes sense to make sure all the wheels are removable when needed. You never know, you might have to do it in the pouring rain at the side of the road one day. My own experience has taught me a salutory lesson. So I've removed all wheels in turn and made sure that it's possible to do it in anger at the side of the road if needed, without killing myself in the process.

Donna's tip regarding the wrench is spot on. So I will be carrying a two foot torque wrench in my van, set at the correct torque for the wheel nuts. You couldnt even get near the required torque with the stupid wrench supplied with the van and with alloys it's got to be right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carrying a torque wrench is a good idea but don't leave it set at the required torque as it will eventually weaken the spring inside and lose its torque setting ability altogether. Torque wrenches should always be set to their minimum setting for storage.

 

Also, I forgot to say before that once you've removed the wheel and before you apply copper grease/anti sieze compound wire brush the mating faces to remove any traces of corrosion.

 

D.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest peter
Dave Newell - 2011-06-03 5:05 AM

 

Carrying a torque wrench is a good idea but don't leave it set at the required torque as it will eventually weaken the spring inside and lose its torque setting ability altogether. Torque wrenches should always be set to their minimum setting for storage.

 

D.

Very good point Dave, thanks for that. I already knew about it, but completely forgot.

Just shows that even the wisest of us can slip up on occasion. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...