Flyer Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 I have a Tabbert FFB, A-Class motorhome with rear washroom. I've recently discovered rot in the floor at rear corners, thought to be due to plumbing leaks. Now I've found saturated wood in the side-walls, although they appear solid from outside. I haven't been on roof yet, (ladder broken), but assume a problem there. Question is, is there any chemical I can inject at water-entry point that will dry out this water? I don't wish to dismantle the entire shower & washroom mouldings, & the 'van lives outside, so can't remove the side-(aluminium)-cladding. I think it's bonded anyway. I hate to think this moisture is going to destroy an otherwise lovely motorhome. There's no electric access where it's kept either, or I might leave a hoover or hair-drier going! Any advice most welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings but - I would never leave a hair dryer running in a van as it could overheat with disasterous results. A dehumidifier is much better for the job but there will need to be air circulating in the wet areas which means removing something and I would also use a fan, or a fan heater running on cold, to aid air movement. Whether the wet is from the roof down or the floor up seems as yet unknown and you might need to take some test drilling samples to find out where it starts and stops. Whatever you find it does need to be sorted quickly or take it from me the wet rot will spread like wildfire and much of the van's structure could rot out surprisingly quickly - depending of the volume of water ingress. Water leaks are never good news and can be very hard to trace and cure without major surgery but the first place I would look would be any mastic sealed panel joints like corners and roof to side panels? Water can seep and travel a long way inside panels and any angle the van sits to create a low point may not be where it is initially getting in even though it may be the wettest point? Turning the van around or maybe raising the wet end without putting any uneven stress on the chassis might help but it might just create another wet point elsewhere? Is there an owners club where perhaps others have experienced and overcome similar problems and can advise? I don't envy you your task - good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Thanks Tracker, I hope to get on the roof tomorrow & will have a good look at vents, etc. This 'van has GRP front, rear, & roof, so I thought it impregnable. I can see it overlaps sides by a good bit, (the reason I went for this make), so will let you know. As said, I have no electric, & about a mile from home. I've also to get it through MOT before I can take it anywhere. I did find leaking basin- drain, but I've not used it for months, & found wall-edges of cassette-locker wet too. I thought of cutting a 'post-box' aperture above the loo to allow it to breathe, but the shower side has plastic all the way up, & no visible fixings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob b Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 I'd invest in a damp meter to survey the interior and get some idea of the scale of the problem. Could you also sheet up the roof with a tarpaulin? This would stop the problem getting worse, if the water is getting in there of course.Good luck . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 As water will struggle to run uphill (just like me!) it may well be that the roof seams are not to blame after all? In which case, as you say, skylights and any other holes in the roof, are worth a look at. You can usually get the inside trim panels off of skylights enough to see the woodwork frame condition and this might be worth doing first before disturbing the outside? Is the roof an all one piece panel or is it joined? Side windows,door and locker frames, and other holes in the wall are other favourite leaking points and there again careful examination and prodding behind curtains and around the inside of frame might tell you what you need to know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 I've found water under vent when I removed internal trim & tickled water from hose onto roof. This, and all rooflight seams have been 're-sealed' & looked sound. The others are ok, (double checked with damp meter). I've just finished removing the 'extra' sealant, which is 'No more nails' variety. it glued the vent ok - I couldn't shift it when all screws removed - but somehow the water got past it. The original sealant is the black mastic similar to windscreen sealant. Funny thing though, water goes over 'crown' of roof, (it's slightly convex), and saturates 'furry' ceiling at opposite corner. Can't see any wood at vent apperture, the insulation is all that's visible - a light coloured foam stuff that's brittle to touch. Anyone know how these roofs are constructed? Do they have metal or wooden rafters? I've read Tabbert made Hymers at one time, so are Hymers like this? Any info much appreciated. Thank you all very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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