deejay Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 2004 Auto-sleeper Ravenna on Mk 6 Transit 2.4 rwd 125bhp Help! Took it out for its fortnightly run and noticed there there was no glow plug light, however it started easily and ran fine. I then noticed that the tacho, speedo, fuel and temp gauge were not working. Clock however, was at incorrect time and showing 11.16, but not advancing the time. Carried on and got some fuel and it started again no problem and was running normally. Came home and decided to have a look at the fuses on the left hand side of the dash. Took the instrument fuse out and then noticed that the clock time had disappeared completely. Then tried to start it and found that there was no joy, as everything seemed 'dead'. All other dash lights seem ok, abs, oil pressure, air bag etc. Any help gratefully accepted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spospe Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 If you have multiple batteries, make sure that all are fully charged. I am not familier with the MK6 Transit, but the MK7 has two batteries under the driver's seat and what you are describing sounds like what would be a duff front battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 This earlier forum thread discusses an instrument-cluster problem on a 2004 Ford Transit: http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Hints-and-Tips/Transit-instrument-cluster-problem/26756/ Twin parallel-connected 'starter' batteries were an option for Transit Mk 6, but only for minibus variants. Although it won't be significant in this instance, it may be worth looking at this thread http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Ford-Transit-batteries/19839/ that discusses Transit Mk 7 batteries. My understanding (such as it is) is that the norm for earlier Mk 7s was to have a single starter-battery housed beneath the driver's seat. Some motorhome converters (eg. Auto Sleepers) would also house the leisure-battery there, sometimes with a second leisure-battery elsewhere to increase the overall capacity. Later Mk 7s had (or could have) two Ford-provided batteries (both housed beneath the driver's seat) and functioning as Clive describes in thread 19839. In this case the motorhome converter would install a 'genuine' leisure-battery somewhere else in the motorhome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 By no means an expert view so I'm sort of grasping at straws with guesswork in the hope that it sparks a line of thought that might help? As everything on the panel has failed could it be as simple as an earth connection fault? Does one fuse control everything on the panel? Are there any other failures, like illuminated switches or little used accessories that might point to a common source of failure? With some fuses it is not easy to see if they are blown or intact so removing the suspects and checking for continuity or changing the fuse for a known good 'un will at least eliminate that risk? Maybe water ingress to a multiple connector plug & socket under the bonnet or on the bulkhead? Maybe a poor connection from the ignition switch feed to either the dash or maybe to a relay? Instrument panels used to have voltage stabilisers which could fail, or become unstable, albeit rarely, but they may not still be used? I seem to recall reading somewhere - may not even have been Ford - about a protection fusible or thermostatic link to protect the panel from excess voltage - but this may also be what the voltage stabiliser did? Sorry to be so vague but my electrical knowledge, like me, is ancient and uncertain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel B Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Check that the engine battery is well secured and cannot move around and that the leads on it are nice and tight, and also that there is a good earth. We had a problem recently on our Smart car where the dash kept flickering off/on, the radio did the same and on a couple of occasions it completely cut out - it turned out to be a battery which was moving around (a new one had been fitted last year which was of a smaller size so the bracket didn't hold it in place) and a loose live lead. Once they were secured the problem was solved and we've not had any issues since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 HiYou can also disconnect the battery for 30 min or longer if you wish and then re connect,This sometimes helps,works sometimes ,but not always I am afraid.Regards,Brendan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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