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The Dordogne


camperadi

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Have booked 2 weeks away to France at the end of march. We comprise 2 adults and 2 dogs plus a 7 meter motorhome. We normally choose a coastal amble with a start point and it finishes where it finishes. We use a mixture of Aires and Accsi. This time we thought that we might go to the Dordogne. We like nice old towns/villages, pretty countryside and are looking to relax. The Dordogne is a big area and the question is???. Can anyone suggest places to visit or even better, a route to follow that takes in the best bits. Any good site or Aire recommendations?. We are traveling from and back to Caen. Stuart
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I usually come down to my home Via Le Mans, Tours, Limoges and so to Périgueux using the toll autoroutes (Péage) which cost about 50€. If You hate Tolls then the route Le mans, Tours,Poitiers, Angoulême, Périgueux is about the same distance, Each of the way points are worth a visit.

I would sugest that a copy of the Michelin Green Guide for la Dordogne or the Aquitaine coast would be a good starting point for your holiday, being somewhat enamoured with the area I would suggest that wherever you stop in Gods own département will be rewarding however you should see The Medieval centres of Périgueux with its extraordinary Cathedral, and Bergerac on the little white train is worth the few Euros it costs. Plus a visit to several vinyards in the Bergerac region taking advantage of the Bienvenue a la Ferme scheme (Try Google)

 

 

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I'd say check opening times of sites because Easter day is Sunday 31 March, and many don't open until Easter. I'd also say be prepared for some crowding over the Easter period, the Dordogne is a popular tourist destination. Finally, don't tie yourselves down, the Dordogne is generally fairly high, and the weather can be quite variable, and in spring wet, and quite cold. We got there (Rocamadour) third week of April last, when it was cloudy, wet and cold, so we went and hid in Provence (the only part of France at the time that wasn't unseasonably cold and damp) for a couple of weeks until it warmed up a bit! Not typical, but just to be aware of.

 

Lots of attractive old bastide towns around the area, with very interesting historic connections (100 years war etc). Also, have a look at the area here, "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France": http://tinyurl.com/bkya5jh to get some ideas. I agree that a guide book, ideally the Michelin green guide "Dordogne, Berry, Limousin", would be helpful. Then, you can make it up as you go along. Almost anywhere will entertain you for an hour or so, and it is not always the most popular places that are the nicest, in fact often the opposite, IMO.

 

Plenty of good food, though you have to hunt a bit to avoid the "magret de canard", "cuisses de canard" and "confit de canard". Nothing wrong with these per se, but they tend to become vary formulaic, and are often not that well presented, cooked, or served in the restaurants in the main squares of the main tourist attractions! If you see pictorial menus, avoid like the plague! If you want real value, get a 2013 Michelin hotels and restaurants red guide, and go for the less opulent, good value options. Some are well hidden (some totally isolated), but usually very well worth visiting!

 

To the British, the Dordogne is a broad region that comprises the Lot, Tarn, and Dordogne river valleys, plus quite a swathe around and between. To the French it is a only one department. What we call the Dordogne, is really the Perigord (black and green), which will be understood by the French as meaning the region as a whole. It is very popular with the Brits, so you will see lots of GB number plates!

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Thanks for the replies and info. The judges link came up with lots of info and I have spent much of the afternoon researching. Brians comment on weather and easter period were useful. Have been caught out with full aires at easter before. What generally happens is I research and make a plan with a route and overnight stops. None of this is ever followed because we end up going with the flow. Generally following a coastline is much easier than being in land. I now have a whole list of 'must be seen' places to get lost and sidetracked from when heading towards them. Thanks again. Stuart
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As if the team at MMM could read your mind, the March issue of MMM will have a feature on the Dordogne (from source to the sea) which, as you would expect, highlights the best areas to view, camp and walk right along length of the river.

If you want a copy follow the link below

 

http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/Motorhomes/Online-Store/Motorcaravan-Motorhome-Monthly-Magazine/MMM-Magazines/Motorcaravan-Motorhome-Monthly-Magazine-March-2013-_sc77_pd3620

 

Thanks

Daniel

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Its a lovely place. I would start at Brantome area then down towards Bergerac then head east towards Sarlat and Rocamadour (actually in the Lot)

 

Its wall to wall Brits though. Some may think this is a good thing I suppose.

 

No need to use campsites unless you want to as there are Aires everywhere. www.campingcar-infos.com is the best source.

 

 

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