cruiser Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Hi....two quick questions! 1) Every year I see sealant oozing out from the roof to side joint-cover strips on my Rimor. I then spend an hour or so cleaning it off with white spirit and rags etc, a messy and tiresome job....but it looks so much better when it's done. Then, next season, it's there again. I can't 'push it back in'....so I have to remove the excess again. Will it ever stop, and am I wrong to clean it off each time? 2) In the off-season, I've been taking the MH for a half-hour run once a month. I've had a few mechanicasl problems in the last few years, each one could possibly be related to the vehicle standing idle for a while. Is there an advised Winter-running' schedule? Is a weekly spin a better idea....or fortnightly? And should I wait for dry days, rather than wet the entire underside? (Er....stupid question?) Winters in West Cork aren't too cold, but can be long and damp BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 Although I dare say like a lot of folk, I've seen loads of untidy sealant, I can't say I've ever experienced sealant that keeps on dribbling out,even after it's been cleaned up.. So not sure what to advise there? Other than maybe to clean them up and re-bead /recap them.... (..but you'd need to try a small section to make sure the sealant you use, is compatible with the original stuff...) As for what to do "off season"...well, all I can only say is use it as often as possible because it doesn't do them any good at all, if they sit for weeks(...stuff starts seize, rust, etc..) "Sleepy Van Syndrome" . If we're unable to get away in ours for a few weeks, I'll at least give it a run around the bypass and get it up to temp' once a week... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 Thanks for your thoughts, I'll be running the MH once a week this Winter, better safe than sorry, although I'll try and pick dry days! The sealant problem seems to be easing each time, I'll clean it one more time. I've a feeling it's to do with Summer expansion, we had a hot period for a few weeks this year (weird....) so maybe that played a part? Anyway, thanks again. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennyhb Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 The butyl sealants to tend to ooze over time but it shouldn't be as much as you describe, our Hymer is now 5 years old there is a small amount oozing around the locker door frame but nowhere else. Previously we had a Hobby caravan that oozed quite a bit from all the sealing strips in the first year, then bit more every 2-3 years. If you are cleaning off every year I think you should be looking at removing the trims and applying fresh sealant. Winter running if not using the van I take it out about every 3 weeks and run it until up to working temperature, wet or dry days i wouldn't think it makes much odds just don't take it out if they have been salting & gritting the roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Check the screws for mounting the corner rails are not corroding. When the heads corrode they expand tightening down the corner strip forcing more sealant out. The tell tail sign is the trim strip covering the screw channel starting to bump up over the screw heads as they corrode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muswell Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 I'm not convinced that a 10min run up to temperature every few weeks is good enough. For a start the brake disks can get quite pitted and the handbrake can get sticky to release if these bits aren't used enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 The oozing sealant indicates its non setting, either an old fashioned oil based type or butyl. In either case as Tracker says its leaving a potential void where water can penetrate. The oil based type can be thinned easily with white spirit and wiped clean. Butyl is a probably close relation of Blutack and sticks like the proverbial to a blanket and usually has to be scraped off as its not easily disolved.. Rsealing depends on the joint involved. Without sight its its difficult to offer any advice. Half an hour probably does more harm than good, An hour so brings all the oils up to temperature and drives condensation off helping to prevent to corrosive acids building up. Its best done in dry weather unless the vehicle has been driven over salted road when a good blast on a in heavy rain on fast road washes the salt away. As well as brake disc corrosion the steel clutch friction faces can rust bonding the clutch solid. Using the vehicle keeps things bright and shiny. I stripped the seized up clutch on one car three times becuse its sailor owner used to leave it standing while away on long voyages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billggski Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 A short run is not a good idea, especially with newer diesels with particulate filters. Give it at least 20 minutes after it reaches temperature preferably at about 50. Use the brakes to clear the rust off the discs, and generally try all the buttons, air conditioning can dry out if not used, so switch it on, even in cold weather. I used to lay up my classic cars in the winter, but now I keep them going, just staying in when there's salt on the roads. The problem is when you SORN it to save money when not using it, it could be a false economy if the discs get pitted or another problem arises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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