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gas pipe


tazdog6007

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Hi, I am not being funny but if you need to ask those questions I would suggest that it would be better to get someone experienced to have a look. Your local dealer will have a gas fitter and it shouldn't cost a lot.

 

Gaslow have the fittings and will offer advice :- http://www.gaslowdirect.com/

 

Just remember that gas is explosive, even minute leaks can settle in low down places and blow you up as you sleep.

 

H

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tazdog6007 - 2014-01-20 1:08 PM

 

has anyone renewed the pipe on the built in gas tank on a a/s warwick or similar.mines rubber and would like to change it for a flexi steel type.do i have to start with an empty tank? and what hose would fit?being under the camper this seems a good idea. :-|

 

A typical under-chassis LPG-tank installation is described here

 

http://deepredmotorhome.com/gas.php

 

I assume you are considering replacing the flexible hose that connects the tank to the filler point (5th photo in the Deep Red piece.)

 

I'm not certain if you'd need to empty your tank to do this, but I'd expect there to be a non-return valve integrated into the tank's inlet as a safety feature should the filler hose be damaged, This is mentioned here

 

http://www.gasit.co.uk/index.php?_a=product&product_id=165

 

in the paragraph beginning "1) The gas inlet valve known as a 80% shut off valve...".

 

If your motorhome's tank has an inlet non-return valve you would not need to empty the tank to replace the filler hose. If your tank's inlet has no non-return valve, you would need to empty the tank. You could ask Auto-Sleepers about this, or you could experiment by (carefully!) loosening the hose-fitting at the tank's inlet and see what happens.

 

Flexible hose with a braided stainless-steel outer covering is available and Gaslow markets such a 'filler hose' for use with refillable-bottle installations. However, this product may not be sufficiently long for your tank.

 

I suggest you phone the following company for advice as they are very knowledgeable about motorhome LPG tanks

 

http://www.gasit.co.uk/index.php?_a=contact

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If the reason for opting for a metal hose is to guard against possible damage from debris thrown up from the road, you might consider protecting your existiing hose instead of replacing it. Three hose-protection products are advertised on this website and I think you might be able to fit the Spiral Guard without disconnecting your hose.

 

http://www.hydra-star.co.uk/Products/Hydraulic_Hose_Protection

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Derek Uzzell - 2014-01-21 1:11 PM

 

If the reason for opting for a metal hose is to guard against possible damage from debris thrown up from the road, you might consider protecting your existiing hose instead of replacing it. Three hose-protection products are advertised on this website and I think you might be able to fit the Spiral Guard without disconnecting your hose.

 

http://www.hydra-star.co.uk/Products/Hydraulic_Hose_Protection

 

Surely, if there is even a remote possibility of damage from road debris, the manufacturer should have identified and eliminated it - in this case the additional cost during manufacture would be pennies.

Or am I just being hopelessly naive (?)

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candapack - 2014-01-21 1:25 PM

Surely, if there is even a remote possibility of damage from road debris, the manufacturer should have identified and eliminated it - in this case the additional cost during manufacture would be pennies.

Or am I just being naive (?)

 

In a word - Yes!!

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candapack - 2014-01-21 1:25 PM

 

Derek Uzzell - 2014-01-21 1:11 PM

 

If the reason for opting for a metal hose is to guard against possible damage from debris thrown up from the road, you might consider protecting your existiing hose instead of replacing it. Three hose-protection products are advertised on this website and I think you might be able to fit the Spiral Guard without disconnecting your hose.

 

http://www.hydra-star.co.uk/Products/Hydraulic_Hose_Protection

 

Surely, if there is even a remote possibility of damage from road debris, the manufacturer should have identified and eliminated it - in this case the additional cost during manufacture would be pennies.

Or am I just being hopelessly naive (?)

 

Afraid you are, the pipe between the regulator and the manifold on the 'deep red setup' is copper sheathed in plastic where it is prone to scuffing etc.,, very wise and well done. IF it is rubber on the OP's van, a Warwick, I think he said, Then I would definately replace it, The spiral protection that others mention is for Hydraulic piping, which is already strengthened internally, Rubber gas piping isn't.

Is there a 'shut off valve' inbetween the regulator and the tank ? there should be to allow a change of regulator. (or am I being naive ?) if there is, then there is no need to drain the tank.

I think that Stainless Steel pipes between Regulator and Manifold are the sensible way to go, no 'Leaching' of plastisciser from the rubber, Only need to replace them every 10 years. AND they resist scuffing and light damage. Go for it. Ray

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