Gram Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I intend to replace the brake fluid on my 2009 Peugeot 3 litre Symbol. I plan to use the Gunson's Eezibleed system which pressurises the fluid reservoir and pushes the new fluid through the system. I have not done this before and would appreciate any observations, tips or warnings. Thanks. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshortcircuit Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Before you start anything have a good look at the bleed nipples. Are you sure you will be able to loosen them off without breaking? If you cant it could become expensive. Have never, ever changed brake fluid in any vehicle I have had but I have no doubt some will insist it must be done. Good luck. :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Whilst the manual lists changing fluid I believe nick's experience is it's not necessary, IMO best bet is to check the moisture content first. For those that don't know , whilst many vehicles hardly if ever need the fluid changing, some will (not might) suffer corrosion internally of the breaking system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Instructions and a video relating to use of the Eezibleed system can be found here http://www.camskill.co.uk/smsimg/g4062_instructions.pdf If the brake/clutch fluid has not been changed since 2009, it will certainly be due for changing by now (at least as far as Peugeot's servicing recommendations are concerned). As sshortcircuit warns, there is the possibility of damaging the bleed nipples (or not being able to undo them) and you'd be wise to obtain a suitable bleed-nipple spanner. http://www.fiatforum.com/punto-ii/246602-brake-bleed-nipples.html As you've never done this before and (presumably) you'd need to buy the necessary tools and fluid, I strongly suggest that you explore the cost of the task being carried out by a garage that you trust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberrat Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 It's not a bad idea to change brake fluid as many types are Hygroscopic, - they absorb water which can corrode brake lines internally and also allow the fluid to boil at lower temperatures causing poor braking on long downhill runs, but don't be pushed into it by QuikFit type garages who see this as a cash cow. Doing it your self with an Ezi bleed is best. It also gives you a chance to check bleed nipples are free - be gentle, tap them open with a good quality spanner - and run about half a litre through the system. Should cost you less than a tenner. Apply a tiny spot of copper grease to the nipple threads. Generally clean up the back plates and check the pipes - quite a satisfying job if you are up to it. Use a spare wheel from something easy to handle (like a space saver from your daily drive car) To provide the air power to the Ezi bleed rather than lugging your motorhome wheel to the front. There is a cost to doing the job yourself of buying the tools to do it that may match it being done by a garage, but once have the tools then next time you do it it will be a quarter of the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 ...as an interesting aside, I have Ford cars and my Transit motorhome serviced at the same Ford dealer (with separate receptions and "sides" for cars and commercials). The car side have always delighted in reminding me that Ford recommend a 2-yearly brake fluid change. The commercial side simply incorporate a "boil" test on the brake fluid, and post the results on the service sheet. After 4 years, the fluid is still well in-spec. It is noticeable that commercial customers drive a hard bargain. The Transit is consistently cheaper to service than any of my cars (or indeed, and Sevel-based motorhome I've had). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroserv Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 colin - 2014-07-20 10:35 PM Whilst the manual lists changing fluid I believe nick's experience is it's not necessary, IMO best bet is to check the moisture content first. For those that don't know , whilst many vehicles hardly if ever need the fluid changing, some will (not might) suffer corrosion internally of the breaking system. Hi Colin, Not exactly.... Brake fluid should be changed as per the manufacturer's recommendations, and that is normally 2 to 3 years. The reason why we don't normally change it on a time basis is because we have the calipers off and have to replace other parts too due to wear/mileage on our vehicles so it get's changed as we go along. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob b Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 If you plan on using the spare tyre as the pressurised air supply source, do make sure that you adhere to the recommended supply pressure. This will involve letting some air out to reduce the supply.I found that I could never get a good seal around the reservoir cap and when the system was pressurised, brake fluid would leak out around the cap and run everywhere in the engine compartment. I then had a hell of a job washing off the spillage before corrosion set in.As I have an air compressor in my garage, I use a Sealey vacuum bleeder which works well without the mess. That said, how about getting a pal to operate the pedal while you bleed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Pumping the pedal to change the brake fluid is best avoided. The plungers travel further down the cylinder than normal. If there is cylinder bore corrosion it can ruin the seals. The older the vehicle the greater the liklyhood of corrosion, The ezibleed pays for itself in four changes of fluid. I hear that on some vehicles with ABS bleeding has to be done while hooked to a computer in order to activate the ABS but I am not sure if this is when filling after a rebuild or just when changing fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gram Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks to everyone for their input. I will be borrowing the Eezibleed, so that's one expense I can discount. I will be wary of the bleed nipples - perhaps a dose of penetrating fluid a couple of days before I start the operation would be appropriate. Does anyone know more about the ABS issue? Are special precautions or actions required? Thanks all. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 This looks to be a usefull site for more information. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-abs-brake-systems. It seems that link is out of date!!! I found it via this word search. bleeding brakes with abs The problem is that some abs systems have a small amount of fluid held seperately to the main mass of fluid until the ABS is operated. If the system is bled once then the abs operated then re bled all the fluid is changed. A bit more expensive on fluid but no great problem on an ordinary car but jamming the brakes on hard is best avoided on a motorhome with its relativly fragile body and loosly stowed contents. Its thought advisable to ocasionally activate ABS brake systems to prevent sticking due to lack of use. On an ordinary road car finding a bit of loose surface at the edge of a quiet road does the job but even then the stop is still quite hard. Something like a lubricated skid pan would be kinder to a motorhome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 George It’s the full-stop you’ve added to the end of the link that’s the problem. This link works http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-abs-brake-systems (This type of ‘generic’ task is usually adequately covered in a Haynes manual. For example, there's a longish section in the Haynes manual for diesel-fuelled Ford Transit Mk 6 vehicles (2000-2006) that covers hydraulic-system bleeding. This model of Transit has ABS as standard and the Haynes advice contains no ABS-related caveats regarding the bleeding process, though there are ABS-related warnings about correct procedure when replacing brake pads.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Thanks Derek. Time to contact the main dealer for some hopefully straight information. its bleeding easy on my non ABS VW Lt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMS Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 When I had a sports car the brakes were upgraded together with copper brake pipes and silicon fluid was installed. The advantage of the silicon fluid was that it does not require to be changed as it is not hydroscopic and does not damage brake seals. I was told it was often used with military vehicles as they need to be ready for use at any time. The fluid had a high operating temperature so no brake fluid boiling. With all the benefits I am surprised it is not fitted as standard on all vehicles perhaps it is cost as it was more expensive but over the live of the vehicle this is a minimal cost. It was still in the car when I sold it after more than 15 years of use with no problems apart from changing a rear brake cylinder as it started to leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasnt Me Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Hi it is quite an easy job as most of the posts have already indicated. Remember to start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest. If the nipples are tight try to use a 6 sided socket or spanner first to shift it. If you try to use an open ended spanner it may slip. As far as the ABS is concerned, you really only need to bleed this with a Tester if the valve block has been replaced/disturbed. Most of the dealers just use a pressure bleeder similar to what you will use. Worst case is you have a small amount of old brake fluid not purged from the system. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.