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waste blockage


duetto owner

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Guest pelmetman

Take the drain tank tap off, mine blocked on a regular basis due to a kink in the pipe caused by a design fault *-)................I'm now able to just unscrew the tap when ever too much gunge builds up, and I flush the tap through before replacing it :D...........

 

 

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chello - 2014-09-18 7:49 PM

 

After each trip I use the jet part of my hose down the sink plug and leave the drain tap open,then I put bio wash powder down drain into tank,hence no smells.

 

This can be an effective way of clearing muck out of waste-water drain hoses and an alternative technique is to pour a stream of water from a large watering-can (with a long spout) directly into the sink’s plug-hole.

 

However, before attempting the hose or watering-can ploys, it would be wise to check whether the sink’s outlet is ‘vented’. Some sink-outlets have two ’stubs’ (example on this link)

 

http://www.destinea-accessoires.com/robinetterie-et-raccords/bonde-siphon-diam-39-mm-4198

 

One of the stubs has the waste-water pipe/hose attached to it, while the other allows air to enter and ‘siphoning’ to take place. Obviously, to prevent waste-water from coming out of the latter stub something needs to be connected to it. This can be a pipe (or hose) attaching the stub to an ‘overflow’ in the sink, but I’ve also seen open-ended rigid plastic pipework angling up from the stub and ending just below the kitchen work-top. This is OK (unless one fills the sink to the very brim) but sticking a hose in the sink’s plug-hole, or using the watering-can method, will result in water flooding out of the siphoning vent rather than going down the waste-water pipe/hose.

 

The time-honoured chemical method of attacking waste-water pipe blockages is to use household bleach

 

http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Blocked-sink-/11205/

 

Mechanical methods (poking a wire, sink plunger, etc.) need care to avoid damaging the pipework. Obviously, if a sink is vented, the vent will need to be blocked before ‘plunging’ is carried out.

 

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As recommended above, I use a sink plunger GENTLY to get a sort of rocking motion going, this seems to free any blockages and after a while lifts the gunge out or the corrugations if you have flexible pipe.

 

The suction on the plunger seems to have more effect than the pressure stoke.

 

Rgds

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thank you for replies and links. I had tried the water can method already, the sink seems to empty reasonable well, but with the waste tap on open as i do this the water is slow exiting and takes a fair while for the contents of the water can to stop runnning out.

 

did not see any gunge, debris or bad smells.

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duetto owner - 2014-09-20 8:25 AM

 

thank you for replies and links. I had tried the water can method already, the sink seems to empty reasonable well, but with the waste tap on open as i do this the water is slow exiting and takes a fair while for the contents of the water can to stop runnning out.

 

did not see any gunge, debris or bad smells.

 

I hesitate to suggest this, but isn’t this what one should logically expect?

 

You are moving a smallish volume of water (the contents of the sink or the watering can) into a large-capacity container (the waste-water tank) that is drained via a small-bore hose. The sink drains fairly quickly because of its shape and height above the motorhome’s waste-water tank, but the level of water in the waste-water tank only rises slightly after the relatively small quantity of water from the sink has entered it. Gravity won’t have much effect on the tank's draining and, with a small-bore drain hose, the water that exited the sink quickly will take much longer to exit the waste-tank.

 

Having said that, if this is a ’new’ problem (and the tank used to drain rapidly when the sink was emptied) you really need to look for some sort of blockage in the hose leading from the tank to the drain-tap and to check whether the drain-tap itself is functioning properly.

 

My experience of the waste-water tank draining arrangements fitted to many UK-built motorhomes (small-bore drain-hose, inadequate venting, water-butt-type drain-tap) is that slow tank draining will be inevitable and unavoidable.

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I agree with Derek's last post.

 

We have a Rapido with solid pipework, (approx 25mm dia) and valve fitted in the tank. Quite substantial compared with some hoses and taps I have seen on other m/homes

 

When the tank is full, water pours out, but as the level gets lower, the flow diminishes quite quickly to a slow trickle that takes over 5 mins to stop.

 

It helps a bit if the M/home is parked with a cross slope (other wise our shower does not drain), and the waste water collects on the drain side of the waste tank.

 

BUT armed with the knowledge that there is some water sloshing about in the tank, I drop in a little washing up liquid, and let the water movement during motoring, wash the tank.

 

Rgds

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Guest pelmetman
Derek Uzzell - 2014-09-24 8:31 AM

 

Anyway, that’s the advice on mumsnet...

 

:D..................

 

 

That reminds me where is Fiona now days? ;-)............

 

 

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