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Wax Oiled our Auto Sleeper


artheytrate

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Wax oiled our Auto Sleeper

I've just had my Auto Sleeper Broadway EB wax oiled by Paul Grundy car paint protection, they black wax oiled underneath and injected door panels and bonnet with clear wax oil. When I got the van home I saw overspray over the roof and skylights, I contacted Paul and we arranged a day to have it cleaned and this morning one of his workers named Dan turned up and he cleaned our roof and skylights to my satisfaction. I've found this company excellent to deal with and the price I was given for the job over the phone is what I paid when job was completed. The total cost was £440 I'm well pleased.

John.

 

Car Paint Protection: Supagard, Metalmate Diamondbrite and Modesta

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I thought the metal on a Sevel was galvanised so waxoiling is surely a waste of money? I know for a fact that the underside of my ex 5 year old Fiat was absolutely free from any signs of rust. And in answer to a similar recent question on a Swift forum, Swift replied that the wooden underside needed to breathe and advised against waxoiling. I know the OPs vehicle is not a Swift but the same principle probably applies.
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My Sevel chassis (Peugeot X2/50 2008) certainly wasn't galvanised. Surface rust appeared along nearly all of the spot-welded seams on the chassis members after only a couple of years.

 

By year 6 when I sold it there was evidence of surface rust inside the box sections - it was starting to appear around the edges of some of the drain holes and other punchings.

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Steve928 - 2015-02-11 2:47 PM

 

My Sevel chassis (Peugeot X2/50 2008) certainly wasn't galvanised. Surface rust appeared along nearly all of the spot-welded seams on the chassis members after only a couple of years.

 

By year 6 when I sold it there was evidence of surface rust inside the box sections - it was starting to appear around the edges of some of the drain holes and other punchings.

 

Also seen a few posts about front cross members with bad corrosion also engine sumps corroding through.

 

John.

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Alko chassis are galvanised, you can look at them at the NEC next week, my fiat chassis certainly isn't, I can see surface rust underneath.

There is enough room for a DIY waxoyl treatment. One 5 litre tin should do if I reckon. But a messy, smelly job. Some prefer Dynatrol, or even old engine oil.

I used to do it as matter of course in the old days, but modern cars don't need it. I suppose the fiat base is just a white van, if keeping it long term I may consider it.

 

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I would be interested to hear views on whether the doors are galvanised on Sevel vans. I believe they are. Also there is the point about undersealing the underside of a wooden floor. Not a good idea, not only because the wood needs to breathe, but if there was a water leak the damp would be trapped inside the vehicle and possibly more difficult to spot.
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There was an absolutely spectacular improvement in corrosion resistance of cars a few years ago (15 or so?) and our 2002 Honda CRV is still going strong, negligible corrosion, 13 years and 170.000 miles later. It followed the introduction of a new legal requirement to paint cars properly, to end the serious rusting from which most suffered after 6-8 years, sending them for scrap. Don't know whether it applied to vans.

 

I bought our MH new in 2006 and gave it a good quirt underneath with protective wax which I bought in aerosl cans. Four 500ml cans were enough. I have repeated the treatment a couple of times since.

 

And it has more or less worked. Some superficial rusting has appeared (on the Fiat rather than Alko bits) but the wax has obviously delayed its appearance and spraying over it with more wax has stopped the rot. Mine's an A Class, so no Fiat doors to worry about.

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Friend of mine had his van Waxoyled and when he came to sell it the dealer did a thorough check of the underside. Not a spot of rust anywhere, Chassis is galvanised anyway and didn't need it, Merc chassis was perfectly protected. Wooden floor ROTTEN. the wood needs to breath and any damp in the ply floor, and there will be some was trapped in by the Waxoyl and rotted the floor, result £5000 less in trade in offer! The floor was shown to him to prove they were not having him over.

Also worth thinking about is if your payload is borderline, the weight of 10 ltrs of Waxoyl is considerable at around 10 kilo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The original Ducato, aka Talbot Express, was a rot box from day one and anything you could do to slow the rapid progress of the dreaded tin worm was worth trying.

 

With the advent of the new Ducato, aka Boxer/Jumper in the early 90s they seem to use a heavier or higher grade of steel in construction and whilst no doubt some of the earlier versions are rotting being 20 years or more old I have never seen any more than surface rust on a van under about 7 years of age and I have owned a few over the years.

 

If I were buying a van that I could be certain I would keep for over 7 years I might be tempted to consider an under chassis corrosion inhibitor but even then I remain to be convinced that the pros outweigh the cons?

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I waxoyled my Ford, even though "galvanised" steel is used. There is little rust after 7 years, just the odd spot or two and that's just surface. Compare that to a white van of the same age, rust everywhere!

Of course a white van has a much harder life but I still think waxing is worth it and I LOVE THE SMELL!

 

H

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I think that it is more important to maintain your vehicle in a clean condition at all times and this means regular washing and polishing on top and regular jet washing underneath to prevent a build up of mud and salt as this is what corrodes metal. Stone chips are a potential source of rust and should be dealt with before they become rusty and this includes underneath the vehicle. An annual inspection should be sufficient to pick up and catch any problems. Today's vehicle bodies are pretty good at resisting the dreaded rust but a good maintenance regime will pay dividends, and help to retain the vehicles value.
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Guest Peter James
After working under thousands of vehicles I have often found rust growing beneath underseal and paint, but never under oil. So I am a great believer in brushing oil on chassis rust - which kept my Rover Maestro immaculate for 20 years :-D
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