zombies Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Could someone help me out with wiring my fridge up please. My van had the fridge stolen amongst other things and I've just got a replacement but am unsure of wiring. Pics show a connector - 2 whites a red and an orange wire I'm presuming red is mains, orange 12v and white I'm not sure if negative, can't see an earth wire anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshortcircuit Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Do not presume anything. Get a tester and first check for 12volts which can be confirmed by removing the "fridge" fuse at the consumer unit. This 12 volts supplies the fridge pcb control circuit. Next start engine and you should find another 12 volts which can again be confirmed by removing fuse at the split charge relays. This 12 volts supplies the fridge 12volt heating element. Next,WITH CAUTION, if you have limited experience, connect EHU and test for 230 volts. This fuse supplies the fridges 230 volt heater element. If you are not sure how to use a test meter get somebody that does. Please feedback how you get on in order we can all learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombies Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Up to now - using 2 screw driver testers one mains only, other flashes (all technical stuff ere) switch mains isolator on I get a connection (not 240 +) on the white wire nothing on red wire orange wire set to fuse = ignitions on the control unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 You would be wise to use a multimeter for these tests. Not all those screwdriver testers are safe at 230V. But, in view of what you have said, I'm assuming the new fridge was the subject of an insurance claim? If so, surely the cost of installation should be met by the insurer? If not, and in view of your comments regarding installation, I think you would be wise to get a professional to make the installation. You have two voltages, one potentially lethal, and gas, to connect and test. That is a highly dangerous combination. Getting it wrong could cost you the van, or worse. I don't think on the job training in this field, by forum, is safe. No-one else can see what you are actually doing, so cannot be in a position to stop you getting it fatally wrong. The underlying problem is that there is no such thing as standard motorhome wiring. They all do it differently, and tend to use different coloured wires to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshortcircuit Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Totally agree with Brian. From what you are posting you need somebody with technical ability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombies Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 I agree forum wise it's best to get someone who knows etc I'm not an expert obviously but usually competent at most things I tackle (jack of all.... nearly). Appreciate your advice. I bought the van from the insurance auction so it's mine to fix. I don't want to go through what I have done in my life and wouldn't have a go if it wasn't doable. Just been to b&q for an 8mm connector 8-) and they didn't sell multimeters! I know my mains electric screwdriver tester is good as I've used it for a while, t'other tests connections, fuses etc Strange there isn't an earth in sight nut easily fixed. and odd I'm not getting a mains feed from that connector Back to the van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombies Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Gas connected but exhaust is an inch too short so gas has been disconnected until that's done. I've come to the conclusion that the connector in the pic is all 12v, one leisure one 12v via mains. I've removed the "fridge" switch next to a mains socket and it looks like wires in and out come and go past the fridge and through the floor. To be continued tomorrow. Everything is switched off (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombies Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 I think i've sussed it. The connector in the pic. 12v Red live, white neutral, orange gas ignition. 240v wires probably removed from the switch. Hmm, maybe not. Orange wire...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombies Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Now cooking with gas, or refidgerating, also mains. Left it on over night on 12v after being on mains a cpl hours (freezer v cold) This morning it was still cold but wet freezer. Am not expecting it to freeze or should I? What should I expect on 12v overnight? Did expect the battery to be flat tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 If you have wired it correctly (and assuming the van electrics weren't damaged when the original was removed), it will only work on 12V when the engine is running. So, if you left it on 12V with the engine stopped, and it didn't work, it is performing as intended in that one respect. Had it used 12V power to run the fridge with the engine stopped, you would by now have a completely flat, and probably terminally damaged, starter battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 As Brian said, 12v only works when the engine is running ;-) ............... Sounds like you've saved yourself the best part of a grand, which is the going rate for a new fridge fitted, as I discovered to my cost 8-) ...............Although I do have a sexy blue light when we open the door :D .......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombies Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Great stuff, thanks Brian for that. Despite getting a flashing light on the 12v wires I think more testing is required, I had forgotten the engine had to run :$ You wouldn't think this was my third van! I was lucky it came with all the manuals incl owners manual so I will have a mooch although doubt it will give me a wiring diagram. Edit. Just started it and power came to the connector.pfft And Pelmetman, i only paid £45 for it. It isn't the one that was there but it's as near as. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombies Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Upon reading the original fridge manual it seems it had an auto igniting flame (like the heater and boiler) whereas this fridge has the push button type and so I think explains the now redundant orange wire. I think we're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Brian Kirby - 2015-06-24 3:27 PM If you have wired it correctly (and assuming the van electrics weren't damaged when the original was removed), it will only work on 12V when the engine is running. ....... That's a common way to wire them up but it's not universal, so don't assume it. My Hymer (in standard configuration, not modified) will run of 12v without the engine running and for short periods we sometimes use it that way. The Hymer's "Electroblok" control device ensures that it can only draw from the leisure battery, so you cannot inadvertently dain the starter battery this way. I am assuming of course that Hymer designed it this way; it is possible that the fitter in the Hymer factory cocked things up when the MH was built! Unfortunately running the fridge on 12 volts does draw quite a heavy current so you really wouldn't want to forget and leave it on, but we only ever leave it running on 12 volts with the engine off for a minute or two. If we're stopped for longer we switch over to gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennyhb Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 StuartO - 2015-06-24 5:17 PM My Hymer (in standard configuration, not modified) will run of 12v without the engine running and for short periods we sometimes use it that way. The Hymer's "Electroblok" control device ensures that it can only draw from the leisure battery, so you cannot inadvertently dain the starter battery this way. I am assuming of course that Hymer designed it this way; it is possible that the fitter in the Hymer factory cocked things up when the MH was built! . No cock up it's the way Hymer have been wiring Dometic fridges for years. On both my vans I have pulled the 20 Amp fuse in the Elektroblock labeled Fridge, so they work as expected. Only problem is with the latest all electronic control fridges when you turn the gas off to go on a ferry and dam thing keeps beeping as it can't find an energy source, so I turn it off, problem is a couple of times I've forgotten to turn it back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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