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Replacing 240v inlet on MH


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I'm new to MH and repairs - I'm going to have to replace the 240v inlet for my MH as the existing square hinged door is cracked and they're impossible to source.


I presume I need some form of sealant to keep rain out, should I be using mastic tape or anything else or both?


Please advise




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Hi Brian,


I had to replace mine recently and sourced the right one easily online. No mastic or sealant was required as it came with a foam gasket. When it comes to DIY I'm worse than useless but had it fitted within 10 minutes.


Best of luck,



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It’s evident from on-line adverts that a foam gasket is commonly provided with replacement 230V inlets, but it also seems fairly commonplace for motorhome manufacturers to install inlets using a jointing compound instead of or as well as a gasket.


An earlier discussion...



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Easy to change, there was mastic between the gasket and the body so I had to warm it first, and then used gutter sealant before screwing tight.

Only problem is that the new one is pure white and makes all the old fittings look tatty.

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Thanks for your replies.


I ordered a complete unit, it comes with a gasket.


The existing one on the van does not have a gasket, and it appeared to be stuck on with some white stuff - it was not white silicone sealant - is this the mastic? out of a tube?


I managed to use a wall paper scraper to carefully loosen it, before wiggling the old unit free. Put in the new unit with gasket, and the existing screws are not exactly perfect for holding it in place as one has nothing to grip on to in the wall.


Next few days there's been rain and this has led to some water ingress >:-(


So I'll have to remove it, bin the gasket, and use some mastic like previously was on to completely seal the area.


Could someone please advise what this mastic may have been and where I can find a tube pretty damn quickly. (if not ebay) - I'm in south east Lancashire.


I don't know if this was the original inlet unit or if a previous owner had replace one - but its on an 08 AutoTrail Cheyenne.

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What you really need is a construction industry adhesive sealant. You should find what you need in the likes of B&Q or Homebase, or a builder's merchant. If you don't have one, you'll also need a skeleton mastic gun. Make sure the gun will fit the mastic tube, there are two sizes!


You need to look for something based on silane modified polyurethane. They are basically a type of synthetic rubber with long life, high grab, permanent flexibility, and they cure by reacting with atmospheric humidity. Several makes available, mostly well know firms, depending on what the store stocks.


They can be "tooled" with a wet finger (best to use latex gloves, because it sticks like the proverbial!).


You'll need to mask around where the socket will go, apply the mastic to the back of the fixing flange, insert the socket, screw back gently to compress the sealant so as to leave about 3mm between the flange and the side wall of the van, tool smooth, remove the masking tape while it is soft but after it has set a little, and leave 24 hours. Then just nip the screws down slightly to compress the sealant bed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Many thanks for replies.


I got this successfully (touch wood) replaced at the second attempt.


1st attempt with foam basket in place, did not completely seal the area only discovered a few days later after the carpet inside was damp under the socket after rain showers.


2nd attempt without foam gasket, used sikaflex to glue it in. No leaks and its still dry 2 weeks later after much rain.

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