Tracker Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Our A/S Executive is fitted with a Sargent Stinger alarm which is about as much use as a chocolate teapot and is so unfit for purpose I do have to question the sanity of the A/S employee who signed it off! Granted, it is cheap and simple enough to fit, but that's maybe because it has no perimeter alarm or sensor for door and windows, no night time perimeter only protection and would only sound off once someone has broken in to the van and actually walks in front of the movement sensor which is fitted in the front of the seat locker. If they only enter the cab it will not even detect that unless they enter the hab area as well. The alarm is very loud but then again it has to be to be heard outdoors being placed under a seat locker and not where I would prefer to place it - under the bonnet - so that it would make more noise outside than inside! Bloomin' useless piece of junk!! What alarm system do you have and would you buy another from the same maker / supplier, or would you buy something different if starting from scratch please? Thanks guys for any advice or info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike B. Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 We have a Sigma. It activates with key fob on central locking on exit. All doors, lockers & garage are alarmed and has movement sensors inside. At night you can activate the alarm from inside very easily and de-activate the interior movement sensors so you can sleep easy. It's very loud and when activated all the lights & indicators flash at same time. It also comes with warning stickers to place on the cab windows. Came with 2 key fobs and a numerical panel which is fitted to the top of windscreen to operate it inside without keys. It is classed as Thatcham cat 1 which gives me 10% discount off the insurance. Am I happy with it? yes apart from when I forget it's on and open the door! Would I buy same again? Yes definitely as so easy to set and very effective. Cost? Can't remember exactly but think it was a bit pricey at the time around £600/700 I think-However if it saves a break-in it is worth the price whatever it was Hope this helps in your choice Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leake Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 When our van is on the drive it plugs into the household alarm as a separate zone. We have a blanking plug that needs to be fitted to complete the tamper circuit and also save having to omit the zone when we are away. On site we have a Maisie which simply barks when activated! We always stay on sites and rely on the fact that a modern PVC is quite difficult to break into especialy on a busy site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Colin Leake - 2015-08-21 7:31 PM When our van is on the drive it plugs into the household alarm as a separate zone. We have a blanking plug that needs to be fitted to complete the tamper circuit and also save having to omit the zone when we are away. On site we have a Maisie which simply barks when activated! We always stay on sites and rely on the fact that a modern PVC is quite difficult to break into especialy on a busy site. That's fine for you but I would need a very long extension lead to reach to Southern Europe and a dog that never went with us for a walkies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Please can I suggest that one of the most important factors when choosing an alarm is it's current draw. If it runs down the battery to a level it becomes unusable, it is not much value? The majority of after market alarms are based on Car systems which generally have a higher current draw. A car is often used every day so running the battery down by 25% in a week isn't usually an issue as it will get brought back up to full each day. Some after market Alarms and Trackers will run the Starter battery down in just 2 weeks. May we also suggest that you get the Technician to wire the alarm from the habitation battery so that if the Alarm does drain the battery at least you can start the vehicle and drive it? Can we suggest there are two types of 'Alarm'? The normal one that is designed to prevent vehicle theft and the second type to protect the occupants who may be inside when forced entry is attempted? If you fit the second type, which you may activate only when you are asleep, ensure there is a covert disable facility to prevent it drawing ANY power when not required. Even in 'standby/sleep' mode some alarms draw enough power the drop the battery right down. No point draining the battery when you are not in the vehicle. Alarms are the subject of many issues, like regular false triggering, power drain, premature battery failure, so we would suggest the fitment of physical security to protect the occupants while they sleep. Additional locks on the doors work very, very well with few long term implications. They also work well against theft in storage better than an alarm which everyone just ignores anyway. Alarms are great when they work correctly. A nightmare when they don't. All too often they don't. Fixing them is a real pain as the false triggering is usually an intermittent fault which all too often doesn't occur once in the workshop. Once an alarm starts playing up it has to be deactivated, so becomes useless at doing what you wanted. Physical security in terms of really good additional locks is a more reliable long term solution. Someone we know sits a Teddy Bear on the front seats with a £10 portable movement alarm around its neck. If it is moved by someone entering the Cab doors at night the alarm both wakes the occupants and scares off the intruder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Thanks Alan, as ever much valuable information from you and some very valid points some of which I am aware of having had a number of both good and dubious alarm systems before over the years and whilst I am fully aware of the battery drain when armed I was not aware of any battery drain when not armed. Fortunately we live in quite a safe area (touch wood) so I doubt we would set the alarm at home - just when leaving the van unattended like going shopping or for walks when away, and of course every night when when we are in residence. I too prefer physical security and we already have a door chain on the hab door so I'm looking now at the Milenco 3070 cab door locks as one idea - but with cab blinds drawn any ne'er do wells will be unable to see them at night which kinda reduces the deterrent effect a bit! Then agin they can't see an alarm either other than a wee flashing red light and I have to wonder whether that would be enough to send them next door! Of the alarms I've looked at the Laserline 691T or Autowatch 695 canbus systems seem to be as good, or bad, as any and I guess to a large degree the competence of the fitter is a big factor when it comes to reliability and a local firm might be an idea for service and warranty issues if they arise. Strikeback from Vanbitz is another option, but the jury is still out on which alarm or whether to bother with an alarm at all. We never take an insurance discount for having an alarm because if the alarm is not set then any claim would be void - not worth the risk in my view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverback Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 out smart the thief all doors,bonnet, lockers, no perimeter, inside can walk about,can do windows as well, but trust me from some one who has just been locked out with the keys inside, rung RAC took one look and he was in within 20 seconds deadlocks useless chains on doors useless !!! take my advice leave the door open dont have valuables then they won't do damage!! i kid you not..20 secs with a bit of wire!!!!!!!!! jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Not high tec....... Fanny has 4' of heavy gauge chain wrapped around her brake pedal and steering wheel with a substantial pad lock, and a rape alarm connected to the front doors :D .......... Plus there is a knack to starting her ;-) ............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverback Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 come on Dave why would you want to nick a pile of scrap!! (lol) tongue in cheek comment (lol) jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennyhb Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Had an Autowatch on the last van faultless for 6 years, so I had one on the new van. New version better has a button on the fob for silent arming/disarming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 Our van has cab deadlocks that do work so that even with a broken window the cab doors cannot be opened by reaching into the cab from the outside but I do wonder if the cab doors could be opened by anyone forcing the outside drivers door lock which might, or might not, deactivate the deadlocks? Does anyone know please? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Don't know about the deadlocks Tracker, but ours could be opened from the inside, I guess for safety reasons for making a quick exit in case of fire etc. On my previous van I had a Strikeback alarm fitted by Van Bitz. Current van has a Cobra alarm, already fitted. The Strikebackack alarm is quite sophisticated with external loop for securing bikes and external LED's on the bumpers. The system works by continuously monitoring the current through the door contacts (ie. Reed switches) when the doors are in the closed position. The reed swiches are designated as "normally on". The Cobra system on the other hand, is only activated when the door is in the open position - similar to the older car system (plunger switch) which operated the courtesy light. The reed switches are designated as " normally off". Both systems have internal sensors which can be deactivated at night. I've had fewer false alarms with the Cobra system than with the Strikeback, probably because the Cobra system is more basic and doesn't warn you of faulty door contacts. If using the Cobra system you need to test it on a regular basis to make sure everything is working as it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Correction to my previous post regarding reed switches. "Normally On" should read "Normally closed" ie. NC "Normally Off" should read "Normally open" ie. NO Apologies for the misinformation but it's getting late on a Sunday evening !!! Anyway, it might be of interest to someone, hopefully. If you ever need to replace the reed switch you need to know whether it's NC or NO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keninpalamos Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 My van has plastic windows :-S dead locks etc don't really do much if your van has the same. I had an Auto Watch alarm fitted after the van was broken into. Since then it has stopped working more times than I care to recall and I have spent 2 or 3 hundred pounds having it put right and "improving" it by the original installer, being a well known motorhome dealer on the south coast. The last repair/update being a month ago and I might add it is still working. Mind you I haven't moved the van yet :-D It normally gives up just as I cross the boarder into Dodge City.....sorry Spain. I do wonder if these alarms are just for insurance purposes as nobody takes much notice of them. I think if it goes wrong again I'll just buy a rolling pin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 From all of which, Rich, you can see there are quite a few, and they all have their detractors and fans. Plus ça change! :-) We were required to have one for insurance purposes - no alarm: no insurance! I have a hearty disregard for alarms as whenever I have had one it has gone wrong, and whenever I have heard one going off no-one has paid the slightest attention. So being druv in a direction I didn't want to go, I decided to get one that is tailored to motorhome use, and went to Vanbitz. The important bits are by Meta, and Vanbitz have chosen these, and the other bits, to suit the type of vehicle, and provide reasonably flexible cover fr motorhoming purposes. Haven't had it subjected to attempted break in, but when I have forgotten to cancel it before opening a door it has triggered instantly. It did develop a fault in the under-bonnet switch, which has been solved very cleverly by Vanbitz, and insofar as it remains silent when not being disturbed, I am satisfied. Not cheap, but not that much more costly than adapted car alarms with PIR detectors inside, which seem to be the major cause of malfunction. But, as ever, yer pays yer money, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patricia Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I have a Sigma alarm which has served me well for 13 years. Just had a new siren fitted. Very easy to set the alarm whether when leaving the van empty or when sleeping in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keninpalamos Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 PIR systems are a nightmare in motorhomes if not installed in the right place. Mine are under the dash and being a A class I have curtains that are drawn just behind the front seats which I close when out for security so people can't see in, and what happens? a puff of wind the curtain moves and off goes the alarm. There is also a PIR on the ceiling near the back which works fine. I have had an isolation switch fitted to the front PIRs to stop the wind via the curtains triggering the alarm. Also the alarm sends a TX message to my iphone to tell me all sorts of things but mainly that the alarm has gone off so I can rush back to the van and get mugged as well as burgled :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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