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Fridge Won't Light


alanlindaclare

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How old is your fridge and has it been serviced recently ?

 

First check if the igniter is clicking by removing the outside vent cover and listening.

 

If the igniter appears to be working OK then it could be a variety of other reasons.

 

Assuming gas is getting to the appliance, it could be a blocked jet, failed thermocouple or soot falling down the chimney and blocking the burner unit. If any of these, then perhaps best to get it serviced unless you feel competent to do it yourself.

 

 

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Had an episode of fridge not lighting on gas a few months ago...lots of clicking from the igniter, but no flame.

Cleaned the flue, jet, burner etc..still no flame.

Followed the gas pipe upstream of the jet and found the gas valve (at back of fridge) wasn't opening...gave it a few gentle taps with a hammer then heard and felt the valve open (wife operating controls in van of course), and everything working as it should.

So, check that valve, and have your sledgehammer at the ready !!

 

Allen

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If not recently serviced then its possibly a blocked 'orifice'. If you are handy DIY wise then you can fix this yourself

 

Disclaimer! - If in doubt take it to a professional!

 

1) Isolate the gas supply at the bottle/tank, and open the taps/light the burners on the stove to empty the pipework. Close em when the flame goes out!

 

2) Isolate the 12V supply at the LB

 

3) remove the fridge lower cover

 

4) Take a photo to aid re-assembly

 

5) Remove the inner cover from the burner noting orientation

 

6) Loosen and remove the burner from the gas supply pipe - you might find it easier to undo the pipe as it leaves the gas-supply control-solenoid rather than at the burner.

 

7) Release the thermocouple/igniter cables at the opposite end to the thermocouple (eg the plastic box), noting where they came from.

 

8) Whichever way you remove it, take care not to loose the 'orifice' (Jet), this is in the manifold as the pipe enters the burner. When you undo the pipe and then upturn and tap the burner it should drop out

 

9) Get some isoprop alcohol in a dish and submerse the entire burner and also the orifice, agitate it occasionally, leave it soaking for a couple of hours then let it dry. Treat the orifice gently, it is a precision part.

 

10) While you are waiting, get the top vent cover off the fridge and dis-assemble the top of the chimney

 

11) If fitted, remove the spiral exhause-gas combiner/heat shield thingy - it will be hanging inside the chimney on a hook.

 

12) Obtain a fish tank hose cleaner - these have a brush on the end of a long 'spring' - see amazon

 

13) Check brush is secure(!) working from top stick it down the pipe, do the same from the bottom, dont get it stuck! Clean the inside of the chimney top that you removed above, re-assemble, don't forget the spiral thingy!

 

14) Vacuum any debris from the lower fridge vent base

 

15) re-insert the orafice (the right way around! - checking the hole is clear), and assemble the pipework with (a small amount of) jointing compound on the threads. Tighten everything up, replace the inner cover, but do not yet connect the thermocouple wires, do not replace outer vent.

 

16) Turn on the gas, turn on the 12V, check cooker will light

 

17) Stick some leak detection fluid on the pipe where it enters the solenoid and where it enters the burner

 

18) Stick the fridge on Gas - it wont light, but the solenoid will open while it tries to light, check for leaks, keep naked flames well away!

 

19) turn off the fridge

 

20) re-connect the thermocouple/igniter wires

 

21) Test the fridge and replace external vents.

 

On my old van I did this as a part of my DIY yearly hab service (I ain't paying a dealer for a hab service! - most of them don't even service the fridge!). New van might be a challenge as burner is not as accessible. Text above is based on the fridge in my prev Tribute 650 - your van will differ!

 

As ever, if in doubt, get a professional to do it!

 

You can usually get the entire burner assembly replaced at most outdoor shows - for around £100

 

There is, however no law that states that you MUST be gas-safe certified to work on your MH (the gas-safe rules are for domestic/business dwellings).

 

Nigel

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Billggski - 2016-01-27 4:06 PM

 

There is a 15 minute delay to prevent the fridge switching to gas when you stop for fuel.

It could be that!

 

The safety-delay only applies if a 3-way fridge has 'automatic-energy-selection' and the feature is in operation.

 

I think Alan’s motorhome is a Wildax “Solaris” panel-van conversion (I’m not sure of its year of manufacture) and that the fridge will be a Thetford 90litre or 100litre capacity model. It should be evident from the fridge’s User Manual which model it is and whether it has automatc-energy-selection. If it has, the safety-delay should be mentioned in the Manual. (It’s certainly mentioned in my Thetford fridge’s Manual that also provides some basic trouble-shooting guidance.)

 

Although Thetford and Dometic fridges cool using similar principles, the fine detail of servicing them will differ.

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  • 3 years later...
If you turn the gas off for a couple days and get this problem, you definitely want to do a thorough leak check. If it is after a couple weeks, it is probably normal. Just light the stove first and wait for a good, stable flame. The fridge may not light on the first try, but will light much quicker than this time!
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