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Adding extra 240v sockets

david lloyd

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Hi, our new Chausson 717GA Welcome has been everything we hoped it would be whilst away in Spain but one thing that was raised in the reviews was the lack of 240v sockets (don't the manufacturers ever read these?) and, I would say, the poor placement of those that are in.


So, I have identified a suitable position near the kitchen worktop to locate a double socket (although I will have to fabricate a back box if there isn't a proprietary one available) but need some advice on where to take the supply from. It is an easy cable run under the floor to the side facing seat where the main supply box is and also in this seat box is the rear of a 240v socket.


There appear to be three possibilities,

Take a spur from the rear of the existing 240v socket to the new sockets.

Remove the cable from the existing socket and put it in a junction box then take cables from here back to the existing socket and the new socket

Take a feed directly from the main supply box to the new sockets.


Any suggestions which is best/necessary?



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If (as I suspect) your Chausson has a CBE-made 230V consumer unit (example here)




connecting to this may be a challenge. The unit has a ‘bus bar’ with sockets that will (normally) allow straightforward connection of extra 230V circuits, but you’d need to obtain the matching plugs




and solder the cable ends into the pins.


I fitted a extra double socket of the type shown here




and connected to my Rapido’s CBE-made consumer unit as I’ve just described. But this was because my Rapido 640 had only one mains socket as standard and that was nowhere near where I wanted the new one, and breaking into the an existing 230V cable to install a junction-box was far from easy.


As Billggski advises, either a spur or a junction-box approach should be OK.

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Having used both the spur from a socket and the direct from the CBE distribution board approach, I would recommend the latter, if a spare outlet connector is available.


My basis for this is CBE DS120 has cable clamping devices for each cable outlet, while CBE 13A socket back boxes are only equipped to clamp a single cable, It would therefore be desirable to clamp the spurred cable securely, close to the original socket.


For wiring I have used 1.5 sq mm 3 core flex, to match the original installation, also for extra security I have run the flex in 16 mm flexible conduit where it is exposed inside seat and under floor lockers.


I have many years of soldering experience, but chose to use simple crimping pliers (the type supplied for use with uninsulated blade connectors).


Other than the cable clamping mentioned, I cannot see any technical reason against taking a spur out of a socket, because MCB in the CBE distribution board provides close excess current protection at 13A, while 1.5 mm flexible cable is rated at 15A. Should be OK as long as it is not in close proximity to to the the space heating unit.


Junction boxes designed for domestic use do not usually provide cable clamping but would make it easier to ensure that the sheath of the flexible cable extends into the box.


The CBE wiring kit is also available from Leisure Lines. I have used Vehicle Wiring Products, for the "Mate-N-Lock" connector pins. (But consider postage!)


You may wish to note that CBE make an add on 240V junction box, that connects to a DS120 ouput and provides more outlets.


My IH Tio R now has several 240v 13A socket outlets. This avoids hazardous mains flexes. The least used socket is one of the original fittings.


I hope that these jottings may be of some assistance.


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Many thanks to both Derek and Alanb for the above detailed and informative advice.


I'm just about to add extra power points to my van, so a timely thread. Like Derek, I'm unable to spur off an existing socket because of inaccessibility problems. At least I can now proceed with a certain degree of confidence with regard to connecting to the CBE 240v consumer unit.


Perhaps this thread qualifies for a place in the Hints & Tips section ?

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Hi, just a quick reminder that wherever you connect extra sockets, be they single or double, the max supply current you can take via a hookup point with blue connectors is 16 amps.


I just wonder why you want to add additional fixed sockets, we use a suitable extension lead around the van which plugs in to existing outlet. The plug can be fitted with suitable smaller rated fuse to suit the device attached, and the van existing wiring is undisturbed, and therefore( should be ) safety compliant , with no potentially hazardous diy junctions.




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tonyg3nwl - 2016-02-22 9:22 PM


...I just wonder why you want to add additional fixed sockets...



I believe David explained this in his original posting - that his new Chaussn motorhome was short on 230V sockets to begin with and those that were provided were not ideally placed. Having spent time in the vehicle in Spain he had concluded that having a double-socket near the kitchen-worktop would be advantageous and it is (apparently) easy to run a cable to where he plans to fit the socket.


DIY modifications to motorhome wiring are occasionally asked about




I chose to connect an extra 230V cable directly to my Rapido’s CBE consumer-unit because - after inspecting the existing system closely - I decided that was the best option. I soldered the cable ends into the CBE connector’s pins because I was using cable thicker than Alanb employed.


As Alan points outs, CBE socket-outlets are designed to accept a single cable, so spurring from one CBE socket-outlet to another may prove tricky (particularly if thick cable is being used) as there’s very little space in the small back-boxes fitted to these outlets.


The CBE double socket-outlet I fitted (similar to the product shown on the ebay link I provided above) actually comprises two single outlets (each with its own back-box) that slot into a plastic frame, and some care is needed when cutting out the aperture to take the outlets /back-boxes. I decided not to attempt to ’spur’ one outlet from the other, choosing instead to feed each individual outlet with its own cable via a junction-box




on the cable leading back to the CBE consumer-unit.


My Rapido now has three 230V socket-outlets - one near the gas-hob that’s essentially redundant and the double outlet let into the bed base at its foot end. I didn’t want to put the double outlet there but, realistically, that’s where it had to go! It does mean that - to run a fan heater in the front-lounge area - I need to use a short extension lead, but at least my wife can now use her hair drier in the bedroom area.



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Thank you to everyone who has provided advice.


As Derek summarised, of the three sockets provided two are essentially unusable due to their positioning so when I install the extra sockets these will not be used. I am, at present, using a short extension lead but as this runs across the kitchen area it is not a suitable or tidy solution in the long term.


The consumer unit is CBE but I am not sure about the origins of the sockets themselves. The one near the consumer unit that I can easily access under the side seat has the supply lead going in but there does appear to be a second (vacant) cable position with a clamp at the side of that so, on closer inspection, it may be possible to take a spur from that and still clamp it. Not sure of the cable size but the code on it is N10 CA/GA3157.


Once I am home I will examine the consumer unit internals (aye, with the power off!) to see what it would entail to run the supply from there but, at the moment, I tend to think it may be much easier all round to remove the supply lead from the existing socket, attach this to a junction box then run two supplies from that to the existing and new sockets.


I would like to match the existing switches/sockets which have a chrome effect surround so will need to search for them and, in addition, the rear of the new double socket will be visible just to the side of the headrest nearest the wall on the forward facing seat. I will, therefore, have to find a suitable looking back box that completely isolates the rear of the sockets or build a small enclosure to protect it and keep us safe from the electrickery inside.


Thanks again everyone.


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