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2003 McLouis 363. 2.8jtd


Mickt

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In france at moment the warning light for injection system failure comes on for about 2 secounds

then goes out.The engine seems to be running ok,plenty of power.This has happened about 3 times

in 1000 miles.Anybody got any ideas.

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Hello,

 

The most likely cause is an intermittent poor connection to an injector. Probably number 3.

 

I would not worry about doing anything with it until you get a miss-fire or the warning light stays on for considerably longer.

You should however get yourself a couple of spare connector plugs for the loom. They are available for a couple of pounds each and have some cable attached already. This not only helps with the repair but extends the loom a little, and they are known for being a bit short and tight to begin with.

Replacing them is a little fiddly but as long as you have a soldering iron, some solder and a little heat shrink it does not take too long.

Better to be looking at them than looking for them!

 

Nick

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  • 4 months later...

At long last i have had the MH in to garage. They attatched computer and the read out says boost presure

sensor is at fault. The garage says these can be cleaned and this should cure the problem , am i doing

the right thing by letting them do this or is it wiser to fit a new part

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well just got MH back from garage , they changed the boost presure sensor, But when on test drive the injector light comes on . This is getting weird as the light comes on when you accelerate up hill, under load.

It come on at about 3000 revs but as soon as you lift off light goes out , then putting foot down again it pulls

well up to 3500 revs and the light does not come on. The engine donot seem to loose any power just the light problem. MH is going back into garage next week for MOT and service and further investigation.

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Don't you just wish you could plug in your Laptop into you vans computer and talk to it, ask it what's wrong, when your far away from home. But of course you can use a code reader with some, some even by Bluetooth. But all you get is a fault code so got to carry a booklet of the list of codes and meanings.

In this case garage plugged it in and came up with Boost Pressure, not fuel pressure take note, so answer to this fault narrows. Sensor is the easiest option and first to change. But fault still persists as too Boost Pressure and what gives you the Boost is easily explained, go on say it, Turbo...I wouldn't think we have an all singing and all dancing Turbo with variable vanes on this old girl as it would involve strip down. So lets just hope its a simple waste gate that just needs freed. But again lets go further, what operates the waste gate, Turbo actuator of course, usually vacuum of air pressure, or maybe electric coil. Actuator may be goosed. Vac/air hose between actuator and turbo boost side maybe blocked.

Good luck and hope garage isn't rubbing their hands.

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If a specific code, even with a description appears; it is all too easy to assume that the device mentioned is faulty.

 

Here is an example.

 

Vehicle: Ford Galaxy 2.3 Petrol. Fault code: "Lambda sensor 2/front".

 

Mechanic assumed that the sensor was faulty, replaced it and problem not gone away.

 

Looked more closely at the code and it's explanation on the diagnostic unit and it said something like: "Voltage out of range". If it had said "short circuit to earth" or "no signal", i would have replaced it but if the voltage is out of range, it more than likely means that it is measuring the exhaust gasses and with too much or too little Oxygens passing, it is sending a reading back to the ECU that indicates that things are not right. In actual fact, the problem was one of the HT leads. It was breaking down and as a result the exhaust gasses were too rich with fuel and hydrocarbons and the lambda sensor quite correctly reported that something was wrong with the exhaust gasses. In the part of the ECU where codes are stored but not live we could see that the engine knock sensor had also reported in sick from time to time which also indicated a combustion problem/mis-fire had been going on for a while.

 

In much the same way, in this case the boost pressure sensor is flagging a problem. It may be that it is fouled and not working correctly or not working at all but it could also be just reporting that the pressure that was expecting was wrong and this could be because of a problem with the turbo, it's hoses, the intercooler, the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor or the air flow meter. Any of which could be giving incorrect readings that lead the boost pressure sensor to be expecting to see one thing but be seeing something quite different, or nothing at all!

 

A proper diagnostic check should be able to see the nature of the erroneous data and take actual measurements at the various sensors to see how viable they are. It takes a lot of experience to distinguish between real problems, the results of potential problems and pure red herrings.

 

Diagnostic tools are just that; tools. They don't provide answers, just clues. Inexpensive code readers have their uses, but are seriously limited when it comes to leading you in the right direction.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Update MH has been back to garage and after fitting a new boost sensor which made no difference they gave the MH a full service . They also cleaned the waste gate to make sure the rod was free. Mechanic said air and diesel filter very dirty and that was after only 5000 miles since previous service.Result it now runs ok ,no light on at 3000 revs.
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