Frad Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hi, I have a AT Apache 364 2012 , I have this morning had all the sink out to try and reroute the drain water pipe so that the sink would empty better. Everything seems to be in your way so as you cant get gravity needed. As anyone else found this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 It's a design fault common in many vans where making usable spaces below the sink takes priority over the function of the drain. Perhaps designers never use what they desighn! The angle at which you park can alter the drain rate quite a lot and apart from keeping the hose clear of gunge etc there is not a lot you can do without major re-routing. We use a combination of a soaking in bleachy warm water to soften the gunge followed by gentle use of a plunger to keep it clear, making sure to flush away all traces of bleach as it can makes corrosion holes in stainless steel. Others will decry this method and have their own solution that works for them, but it is cheap and it works for us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spospe Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 We have found that the single biggest factor which determines the flow rate when emptying the kitchen sink, is the depth of water: deeper water equals faster flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crocs Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 spospe - 2017-01-02 9:37 PM We have found that the single biggest factor which determines the flow rate when emptying the kitchen sink, is the depth of water: deeper water equals faster flow. And the best way to keep it deep is to leave the tap on when the sink's emptying. :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 crocs - 2017-01-02 10:26 PM spospe - 2017-01-02 9:37 PM We have found that the single biggest factor which determines the flow rate when emptying the kitchen sink, is the depth of water: deeper water equals faster flow. And the best way to keep it deep is to leave the tap on when the sink's emptying. :-D Some good tips there - and here are a couple more - You could always blow down the plug hole whilst the water drains and give the gravity of the situation a helping hand - always more fun with an open tap! Multi tasking I call it - no need to shower or wash your hair - clever eh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frad Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 Thanks Tracker for your prompt reply. My sink is very very slow even when I park on a slope and have use front ramps (which is a pain). You mentioned costly re routing could you explain more or point me in the right direction of where I can do this. I live in Staffordshire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will86 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I've seen a plastic corrugated sink plunger somewhere, this could be placed over the hole and pressed to move the water faster, then lifted and repeated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 If there is a low point (sag) in the outlet pipe between sink and waste tank, this can trap silt over time and restrict the flow. I've disconnected the outlet from the sink and fed curtain wire down the pipe to dislodge any debris. A refinement of this operation is to attach a circular brush (as sold by Betterware, for example) to clean the pipe. If you have easy access to the waste tank you can feed the curtain wire through the pipe until the wire appears. Then drag the curtain wire (with brush attached) through the pipe. I've used this method combined with the use of a cheap plastic sink plunger, with success. Most vans have inline water traps to stop unpleasant smells from entering via the waste tank. These need cleaning out from time to time. Last but not least - the waste tank should be vented. If the vent pipe is blocked, you may get a build up of pressure in the tank which could affect the free flow of water into the tank. A minor sag or low point in the outlet pipe is not necessarily a show-stopper, it just has to be managed by regular maintenance. Obviously, a sag is not desirable but the limited space at floor level is generally not conducive to a gravity fed system and a van that is possibly parked against the natural direction of flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliB Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 An air block in the waste tank seems to be my problem. If the waste tank drain cock is left open the sink drains fine. There are 6 venting holes on the top of the forward facing edge of the waste tank which I clear at regular intervals. This helps but with the vehicle being 7.4 metres long and the sink at the front, waste tank at the back it is a long pipe run which can easily have an air block. I keep a small sink plunger, it usually only takes one or two plungers and the water then flows quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frad Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 Well everyone thank you very much for your replies and they give me somethings to try now, I was getting a bit fed up of getting the wife to suck the outlet pipe. (joking) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebeaches Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 When we got our new van in the summer noticed kitchen sink didn't drain properly. Checked under sink - pipe from waste trap went uphill! Took it back to dealer and they sorted it by cutting out an inch from the next stretch of down pipe - all sorted. But shouldn't have been supplied like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJay Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Will86 - 2017-01-03 9:58 AM I've seen a plastic corrugated sink plunger somewhere, this could be placed over the hole and pressed to move the water faster, then lifted and repeated. Don't think the youngster's on here , no about such old fashioned remedies, Will PJay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 This link is to a relevant Practical Caravan piece by the late John Wickersham http://www.practicalcaravan.com/advice/31863-waste-water-wisdom Even if a motorhome’s waste-water system has domestic-style pipework, waste traps and a well-vented waste-water tank, it probably won’t have vented ‘plug-holes’ in the sink and wash-basin. In domestic applications there will normally be a vent of some sort (eg. an overflow outlet from a bathroom wash-basin) that will permit air to enter the pipework as water drains through the plug-hole. No venting means that water going through the plug-hole has to rely on gravity to produce draining until (if you are lucky!) siphoning takes over. If you fill a bottle with water and then invert it, draining will be slow as air needs to bubble up through the water in the bottle to allow draining to continue. But if you rotate the bottle to ‘spin' the water inside it, air can enter much more easily and draining will be far quicker. Similarly, if you have a reasonable depth of water in a motorhome’s wash-basin or sink, you could try using your finger to ’spin’ the water above the plug-hole to encourage air to enter as shown in the attached photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derek pringle Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Hi Frad, Do not know about your specific model but my Bessacarr actually had a small sink trap of a different type than ordinary house waste traps. I unscrewed the mall dome end off the trap and cleaned some gunge from there. Must say the trap was covered in insulation so wouldn't be noticed without a little scurry about. good luck derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will86 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Derek forgot to say clockwise or antl clockwise. In reality its all about air pressure above & below the trap, the quantity of water, weight of water and the size of the hole(s) that allows any liquid to pass through. Even the viscosity of the liquid, 'used' water will be more dense. I suggest Frad uses a bucket ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Will86 - 2017-01-04 10:30 AM Derek forgot to say clockwise or antl clockwise... Depends whether you are right-handed, left-handed or ambidextrous. ;-) Me, I spin the water clockwise because that somehow seems to the ‘right’ way to do it. http://www.bbc.co.uk/bang/handson/plugholes.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Will86 - 2017-01-04 10:30 AM Derek forgot to say clockwise or antl clockwise. ! Some say, the direction of a natural vortex depends on whether you are in the northern hemisphere (anti-clockwise) or southern hemisphere (clockwise). Or is it the other way round ??? However, if you mechanically induce a small-scale vortex it will continue in that direction. So, clockwise or anticlockwise, it doesn't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will86 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Within the Practical Caravan information that Derek supplied I would add two comments to that given. 1. When sawing plastic pipe or thin metal tubing by a junior hack saw or the larger variety. Reverse the direction of the teeth so that the actual cutting takes place on the back stroke. In physical terms a forward cutting stroke is pushing the forward cutting teeth downwards into the material often resulting in jamming or the blade breaking. By reversing the teeth the cut is on the upstroke which is lighter and almost impossible to jam. 2. The demonstrator used an abrasive cloth or paper to remove any burrs on the plastic pipe, this often produces more. A cleaner way is to use a very sharp knife, held at "90 degrees to the job" This 90 is most important and does not 'cut' but peels the material, leaving a smooth removal. Specialist tools are widely available if the operator is in productive environment. Not so for the individual juggling with a single job. Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frad Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 Thanks everyone, now to get wet and try a few things out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeco Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 After exhaustive tests conducted over a 20 minute washing up period by the Geeco Bureau of Drain Watchers I can confirm that the Derek Uzzell theory of drain speeds ie the speed is the same clockwise or anticlockwise, regardless of hemisphere is correct and that the speed of discharge is proportional to the level in the sink. Data as follows;Location: South of the EquatorConditions: 1900 hours (post happy hour), light rain, wind from SEast, temp 24.5C , humidity 93% (not nice).Test vehicle: 2015 AT Tracker FB fitted with reasonably slow draining (aren't they all) circular sink. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Thank you Geeco for sharing the results of your exhaustive tests, carried out Down-Under for the benefit of those of us who live in the Top half !!! I'm sure Derek will be mightily impressed by the international verification of his theory although testing at 93% humidity may have swayed the results a tad 8-) Have a nice (sweaty) day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Robbo Suggest you click on the link I provided in my posting of 4 January 2017 11:04 AM above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leake Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Derek Uzzell - 2017-01-04 9:08 AM This link is to a relevant Practical Caravan piece by the late John Wickersham http://www.practicalcaravan.com/advice/31863-waste-water-wisdom Even if a motorhome’s waste-water system has domestic-style pipework, waste traps and a well-vented waste-water tank, it probably won’t have vented ‘plug-holes’ in the sink and wash-basin. In domestic applications there will normally be a vent of some sort (eg. an overflow outlet from a bathroom wash-basin) that will permit air to enter the pipework as water drains through the plug-hole. No venting means that water going through the plug-hole has to rely on gravity to produce draining until (if you are lucky!) siphoning takes over. If you fill a bottle with water and then invert it, draining will be slow as air needs to bubble up through the water in the bottle to allow draining to continue. But if you rotate the bottle to ‘spin' the water inside it, air can enter much more easily and draining will be far quicker. Similarly, if you have a reasonable depth of water in a motorhome’s wash-basin or sink, you could try using your finger to ’spin’ the water above the plug-hole to encourage air to enter as shown in the attached photo. That's what we do certainly does help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leake Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 All depends on the type water used try switching from normall water H2O to using heavy water HO. Logically this should help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Derek Uzzell - 2017-01-05 1:43 PM Robbo Suggest you click on the link I provided in my posting of 4 January 2017 11:04 AM above. I always click on your links, Derek :-D OK, it may not be your theory but thanks for extending my knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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