Alternator charge at 14,63 volt (at idle rpm)

[Jan V]

Fiat 2,8 liter 2005

 

Alternator charge at 14,63 volt (at idle rpm)

 

Any easy fix to lower the charge voltage for 14,3-14,4 volts?

 

Any suggestions?

[Robbo]

I normally drive with the headlights permanently on - that might lower it (lol)

[veletron]

Measured across the terminals of the leisure battery using a decent quality volt-meter?

 

I would not worry about it too much, prob indicates low load (fully charged van and habitation batteries). Was the fridge on - that will pull it down a little.

 

If you are really concerned you could fit a split charge diode (NB - Diode, not relay) which will give you an additional voltage drop.

 

The other possibility is that the alternators own regulator is not working properly, but I would expect 15V+ if it had actually failed.

 

Nigel

[Alanb]

Before worrying too much, have you considered the possible inaccuracy of your voltmeter?

 

Perhaps the easiest way too check your meter would be to read the charge voltage on a different vehicle.

 

About a year ago I became concerned about the health of one of our car batteries. I had access to four digital meters, and we have four vehicles to check when the lawn tractor is included.

 

I made a comparison chart which showed that no two meters gave the same reading. The lawn tractor battery was probably the newest, and the readings taken on that ranged from 12.58V to 12.96V. My interpretation is that these measurements are respectively too low and too high.

 

To increase my confusion, I have since purchased a 5 1/2 digit meter module, which claims if I remember correctly, 0.5% accuracy.

 

Alan

 

[Jan V]

Start battery voltage at 12,61 volts.

Then when alternator rotating the voltage is 14,63

 

We always make a big fuzz when 230 VAC charger or DC/DC chargers give more than 14,4 volts. In my opinion also the alternator should give max 14,4 volts

 

This motorhome got a history of battery problems.

After some fault tracing I found that;

The 20A fuse for EBL internal 230 vac charger had a "melt down"

Probably because of the damaged leisure batteries 2x100Ah

 

I believe the old leisure batteries might been damaged by the alternators 14,63 volts

 

Installed new 200 Ah GEL batteries and want to protect them.

I am in progress installing a CTek Dual D250S DC/DC charger (+Smartpass)

Have removed the alternator charge cable at EBL.

I will route the cable directly to the CTek and the batteries.

Also installing a CTek MXS25 230 VAC charger.

 

In other words; bypassed the EBL by giving all the charge current directly to the leisure batteries.

 

Its my plan... Dont know if it is a good one, but still a plan

 

 

:-D :-D :-D

[Alanb]

You quote 14.63V at starter battery terminals when the engine is idling. I would expect that voltage to rise at normal running speeds.

 

"Velotron" has mentioned a possible 15V if the alterator regulator has failed. A voltage of this magnitude would also cause problems with your starter battery.

 

Fitting the D250S would shield your habitation battery from the alternator output, but this would not help the starter battery.

 

I think that you should give some further consideration to the possibity that the alternator regulator is faulty.

If the alternator regulator is faulty it should be possible to replace it, however having a 2006 2.8 JTD myself, I can appreciate that the alternator is not easy to get at, and that it is putting it mildly! If the alternator is in need of repair, is it worth upgrading to a higher output version?

 

Alan

 

 

[Jan V]

Alanb - 2017-05-19 10:01 PM

 

You quote 14.63V at starter battery terminals when the engine is idling. I would expect that voltage to rise at normal running speeds.

 

"Velotron" has mentioned a possible 15V if the alterator regulator has failed. A voltage of this magnitude would also cause problems with your starter battery.

 

Fitting the D250S would shield your habitation battery from the alternator output, but this would not help the starter battery.

 

I think that you should give some further consideration to the possibity that the alternator regulator is faulty.

If the alternator regulator is faulty it should be possible to replace it, however having a 2006 2.8 JTD myself, I can appreciate that the alternator is not easy to get at, and that it is putting it mildly! If the alternator is in need of repair, is it worth upgrading to a higher output version?

 

Alan

 

 

I am helping a friend transforming his motorhome to be free for all the battery trouble :-D

 

New leisure batteries, Introduction of the D250S, also fitted 4x100 watts solar and a CTek ac 25A charger. Also fitted LCD instruments for solar and batteries. The only thing as original will be the alternator and the start battery.

 

Did the same on my own motorhome. Works great :-D

 

In a few days, when I have finished the leisure charge system modification, I will do a test drive and measure the charge voltage. I anything above 14,4 volts I will ask a local workshop for an offer on replacing the alternator.

[aandncaravan]

A cheaper, easier option might be to wait until the Starter battery fails and fit a Silver based battery that tolerates higher voltages, as witnessed by the Silver batteries specified by Ford for their ECU controlled Alternators (I think from 2004 to around 2012?).

 

Ford's like the Mondeo and Transit have Alternators which regularly put out 16v without shortened battery life, so long as they are Silver based batteries.

 

Maybe also buy one of those £3 Cigarette light socket voltmeters to plug into the Cab Cig socket so you can monitor the Alternator output to the Starter battery?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jan V]

Next step will depend of the voltage measured when driving the car.

(Maybe later today)

 

Installing the Votronic LCD´s, but for sure;

one of them cheap "Plug n´Play" will be visible from drivers position.