Mike H Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Hi. I need to change a headlight bulb and cannot undo the outer fixing bolt, don't want to force it. It has a metal piece over the end, and the star socket bit goes through this, but will not turn either way. the other bolt is just an ordinary bolt and comes out easily. Also how to disconnect the electric supply to the lamp unit. Thanks in advance for your assistance. Mike H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 The silver metal piece (with a star-socket hole in it) that goes over the end of the headlamp’s outer fastener is there to strengthen the fastener’s plastic body and you need to turn the fastener anticlockwise to undo it. I fully understand that you are reluctant to apply a lot of force, but you’ll have to grit your teeth and apply sufficient force to start the fastener moving. As your outer fastener is evidently pretty tight try giving the socket-spanner you are using a sharp jerk (perhaps a tap with a small hammer) rather than applying increasing torque. Once the fastener begins to move it should unscrew easily (and don’t overtighten it when you replace the headlamp). The electrical connector that attaches to the headlamp has a grey metal ‘clip’ on its inner side. Get hold of the upper and lower ends of the clip and move the entire clip sideways towards the centre of the engine compartment. The connector can then be pulled off the headlamp. Replacement is vice versa - push the connector on to the headlamp and then push the clip sideways away from the centre of the engine compartment. When you have removed the headlamp’s inner and outer fasteners and detached the electrical connector, the headlamp unit can be slid sideways towards the centre of the engine compartment and lifted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike H Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Thank you Derek. I saw the plastic fastener and didn't want to exert to much pressure on it in case it broke. i will have another go later after lunch. And the electric connector, wasn't sure if the metal clip had to be removed or squeezed at both ends to release the plug, (tried squeezing both ends and that didn't work) Thanks again..Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 There is a short YouTube vdeo-clip dealing with removal of X290 headlamps to carry out bulb replacement This shows the headlamp unit’s inner and outer fasteners being unscrewed and the headlamp being taken out of the engine compartment, but it does not indicate how to detach the electrical connector from the headlamp unit. I don’t know if the ‘clip’ arrangement is commonplace, but I easily discovered how it works when I was swapping my Rapido’s original equipment (OE) headlamp bulbs for ‘uprated’ versions. I say “easily” because when my LHD Rapido was imported to the UK the vending dealership (quite rightly) had the OE right-dipping headlamp units replaced by left-dipping ones to comply with UK registration regulations. However, whoever did the swap failed to move the clip on one of the connectors to its correct ‘closed’ position, leaving the connector only partially attached to the headlamp and visiibly cockeyed. With the connector in that position it became plain how the clip functioned. This is one of those tasks that, when you’ve done it once, it’s straightforward to do again - but deciding how to do it initially is far from obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike H Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Hi Derek. Easy when you know how, thanks. exerted a bit more pressure on the upper bolts and they came undone. The headlamp wiring connector on mine is plastic, horseshoe shape that goes two thirds around connector, and when slid sideways the connector comes away from the lamp unit. I did the same as you, upgraded the bulbs and it took about 20 minutes start to finish. Can't wait to drive in the dark. Once again thanks for the information. Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinM50 Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Took the bulbs out of my headlights to change the DRL's to LED's and disconnecting the lighting loom connector was pretty straightforward. IIRC it's a half turn of the connector on the back of the headlight unit. Leastways I think so. (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 The procedures involved in removing a Ducato X290’s headlamp and replacing bulbs are described in the “REPLACING AN EXTERIOR BULB” section of the Owner Handbook. However, although there is a drawing showing the position of the main electrical connector that needs to be detached from the headlamp, the only advice provided is to "disconnect the electrical connector A fig. 126 from the headlight”. Nothing is said about needing to slide sideways the connector’s grey ‘clip’ (which, as Mike has said is made of plastic, not metal as I suggested earlier). Although removal/replacement of the W21/5W bulb used for an X290’s combined side and (non-LED) daytime running lights involves turning the bulb holder, removing/replacing the headlamp’s main electrical connector does not - the ‘loom-connector' just pushes straight on to the the headlamp’s rear connector. Sliding the grey clip inwards allows the loom-connector to be pulled straight off and, after pushing the loom-connector on to the headlamp’s connector, sliding the clip outwards locks the two connectors firmly together. X290 headlamps are fine on main beam when four 55W H7 halogen bulbs are operating, but two of these bulbs extinguish when on dipped beam halving the light output. All of my motorhome night-time driving is outside the UK and usually on unlit rural roads. With my Rapido’s UK-standard headlights dipping left and the light ouput halving, on dipped beam seeing the road’s verge on the right is not easy. I’m not sure if ‘uprating' the original H7 bulbs has really helped with this, though I guess it should have made some improvement. It is possible to buy H7 HID conversion kits, but I suspect I might be better to fit right-dipping headlamps for my trips abroad. I regret not specifying the front fog-light option for my Rapido, not because I’m certain those lights could have been effective in making the right-hand verge more visible, but because I’ve now no way of checking if that would be so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Derek, didn't the dealer hand you the right dippers? Can't you switch them back in the trips across the ditch? The swap looks to be fairly simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Brian Kirby - 2017-10-23 11:22 AM Derek, didn't the dealer hand you the right dippers?.. . No - I did inquire when I took delivery of the motorhome whether the dealership (Highbridge Caravan Centre) still had the original right-dipping lights, but it wasn’t possible at the time to establish if they did. I don’t know if you’ve ever been to Highbridge CC, but it’s an enormous place and the various sections (sales, parts, servicing, etc.) are widely dispersed. They did try to check and I got the impression that the original lights might have been ‘exchanged’ with UK-standard ones (Perhaps they had gone back to Rapido?) As I was hoping for a freebie and Highbridge had followed proper procedure in swapping the headlights and replacing the kmh-only speedometer face, I didn’t have any leverage regarding getting hold of the original headlamps. To some extent this was my own fault as I had expected the motorhome to be delivered to Highbridge in ‘full French’ format and that there would then be discussion with me about headlamp/speedometer changes. In practice, when I collected the motorhome the lights and speedometer face had already been swapped and the (single) 230V mains socket-outlet was UK 3-pin type not the French norm (I don’t know if Rapido or Highbridge was responsible for this). The dipped beam angle was way too low to begin with and was adjusted upwards by the Fiat Professional agent that has serviced the vehicle. I still thiink they could come up a fair bit more without causing dazzle, but that would not address the left-dipping issue. I’ve ’swung’ both headlamps as far right as they will go - this helps when abroad but it’s not as good as having right-dipping lights. I’ve considered buying one right-hand-side right-dipping headlamp (which is all I really need for lighting up the verge) but - given the limited amount of night-time driving I do - I’m reluctant to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Ah! Well, I guess if they delivered to you with right dippers at no extra cost to you, that is fair and reasonable. I hadn't realised there were two main beam lamps in these units, so yes, the reduction in wattage would be severe when dipping. I assume you will have explored the available permutations of wattages on the twin filament lamp. I wonder if reducing the wattage of the other main beam lamp might help, by reducing the contrast between the total main beam output and that available on dip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroserv Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I can't say it strongly enough.... Anyone that acquires a Fiat X290 MUST get under the bonnet straight away and remove the headlamp screws, grease them and put them back. Only tighten them to 'finger tight'. I identified this as a very high risk of corrosion and potentially broken plastic screw extensions down the line when these vans first arrived. Go on; do it now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeco Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Generally I do not travel at night in the bush due to the amount of wild life freely roaming around - read kangaroos, emus, wild pigs, wild goates and worst of all wombats. If you hit a wombat it is like hitting a brick wall. The solution here is to fit additional driving lights. I amnoticing that people are now fitting light bars instead of two spot lights. They are available with different lumen strengths. Generally they have an outer spreader beam eschew side and a spot in the middle. This could be an option... Link to light bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Brian Kirby - 2017-10-23 3:10 PM Ah! Well, I guess if they delivered to you with right dippers at no extra cost to you, that is fair and reasonable. I hadn't realised there were two main beam lamps in these units, so yes, the reduction in wattage would be severe when dipping. I assume you will have explored the available permutations of wattages on the twin filament lamp. I wonder if reducing the wattage of the other main beam lamp might help, by reducing the contrast between the total main beam output and that available on dip? Each X290 headlamp (photo attached) has two single-filament 55W H7 halogen bulbs. The H7 bulb in the headlamp’s outer reflector provides the dipped beam and has a ’shield’ in front of it, while the H7 bulb in the inner reflector is unshielded and illuminates only when main beam is selected. As the bulb producing the dipped beam stays illuminated when main beam is selected, each headlamp has both 55W bulbs illuminated on main beam but only the shieded 55W bulb illuminated on dipped beam. An H7 bulb is homologated at 55W for road use. It is possible to obtain 65W H7 bubs but these are only supposed to be used off road. The usual upgrade method is to replace OE bulbs with ones that do not exceed the standard wattage but are advertised as producing a higher light output. There’s a comparative H7 bulb review here http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/76760/best-car-headlight-bulbs-group-test but, if the OE bulbs are already ‘good’ ones. replacing them will not turn the headlamps into lighthouses! I don’t want to hang extra lights on the front of the Rapido (like I used to do with my cars in the 1980s and 90s) so I like Gary’s light-bar suggestion. But it’s an expensive option and I’m wary of its legality in the UK and Continental Europe. Realistically, swapping the headlamps (or just the right one) for a right-dipping unit would be the logical thing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Ah! I thought you were describing a headlamp with a twin filament main and dip lamp in one of the two headlights, and a further single filament main beam lamp in the other. All makes sense now! I still wonder if it might be possible to reduce the wattage on the main bean H7s, as an alternative to increasing power on the dip beam lamps. That should reduce the contrast between the amount of light output while on main beam with both components giving 110W per side, and that provided by the two dip beams only at 55W per side. If it worked, and was possible, it would be a fairly cheap fix. The main problem I can see with that would be the arm's race now taking place in headlamp light outputs, with some (presumed) LED lamps producing way more light than any halogens I've ever encountered. There are times when, on wet roads at night, I really can't see anything beyond the oncoming dips of some vehicles! It's getting silly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry McG Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 euroserv - 2017-10-23 3:45 PM I can't say it strongly enough.... Anyone that acquires a Fiat X290 MUST get under the bonnet straight away and remove the headlamp screws, grease them and put them back. Only tighten them to 'finger tight'. I identified this as a very high risk of corrosion and potentially broken plastic screw extensions down the line when these vans first arrived. Go on; do it now! thanks! done - a 5 minute job :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Brian Although there are H7 halogen bulbs with a wattage above 55W, as 55W is the standard for a ‘road use’ H7 bulb, no H7 bulbs with a wattage below 55W are marketed. If I wanted to reduce the contrast between high and dipped beam, the simplest ploy would be to always drive using dipped beam, but then I’d have to drive much slower. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikey Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Hi Big thanks to Nick euroserv and Derek for the info on the headlight bolts My van 2 plus years old First screw to grease came straight out the second took 10 mins with spray release fluid to budge it scary! Thanks for the heads up on this problem Great info on this forum Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 It’s the outer headlamp fasteners that MUST be lubricated to avoid them seizing in place. The fastener comprises 3 components: 1: A metal threaded ‘bolt' with a square head that screws into (and through) a female threaded hole in the Ducato’s bodywork. 2: A longish plastic extension with the bolt’s square head slotting into the extension’s base. 3: A metal piece with a (T30?) star-socket hole in it fitted over the plastic extension’s top. The bolt is very inaccessible and If it seizes in the bodywork threaded hole or corrodes on its outer end (and there is plenty of potential for either of these things to happen) as Nick warned earlier there’s every chance that the plastic extension will break when an attempt is made to unscrew the fastener. The inner fastener is a normal all-metal Torx-bolt and accessible. Obviously it makes sense to lubricate the inner fasteners too, but it’s with the outer fasteners that the risk really lies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 Just been and checked. Herewith photo of the offside bolt - Relay built August 2016, and registered February 2017. How much longer would it have been before it was rusted solid? Thanks Nick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 Blimey Andrew! Where do you keep it, in a duckpond? :-D What is the sate of the (presumably) captive nut? I'd think I'd take that back to Mr Citroen, complain, and ask for a free replacement - and then grease that. Grease on the original, where all the sherardizing has already gone, looks to be a labour in vein. That looks to me like classis galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals somewhere. Either that, or there is an awful lot of water being tipped over that bolt on a regular basis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 Cumbria - where we have LAKES, and all the rain to fill them!! And we are evolving webbed feet. Must agree - I did find that rather shocking, after such a short time, so I will be asking for a replacement - or two. The other side's bolt was nothing like as bad, but you could see where it was starting to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 That depens on the corrosion rate, take a wire brush and put some molycoat on it. There are more bolts in this condition that you will never see for ever on your motorhome. Unlees your are a underbody freak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 Brian Kirby - 2017-10-28 4:23 PM ...Either that, or there is an awful lot of water being tipped over that bolt on a regular basis. Given where the threaded end of the bolt is, it being regularly doused with water is pretty much inevitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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