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Daylight Running Light (DRL) relay replacement?


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Has anyone have a recommendation for a DRL relay?


My home brew DRLs relay (ex Amazon) has failed, probably the voltage sensing part.


I have taken a look on the usual web sites and see a whole range of DRL relays, all resembling about four or five different manufacturers, packed differently at prices that range from, "" Can it really be that cheap ? Or. Expensive ? For the same looking product.



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Thanks for the reply. I have taken a look (as much as my bifocal specs and short sightedness allow me, ) in the cab. Engine side is ok for access.


I assume the drawer of the glove box has to be dropped, do any other panels have to be removed ?


I was thinking of using a thin cored multicable (towbar electric cable) . This would allow me options for all sorts of toys such as horns, retina burning spotlights and other junk.





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I didn't remove anything just pushed a length of stiff wire (36" x 1/8 welding rod) from engine side into cab until it could be felt then pulled it thru with wires attached ran wire across to fuse board and feed it with piggy back fuse from cig lighter fuse check that what you intend isn't to much for that type of feed


ebay number for part 173331596481

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Many thanks


Good news ! The DRL relay is working !!!


Bad News ? The LED DRLs have failed after 6 years in position. Strange but each unit exhibits exactly the same fault in that when connected to 12V, 3/4 of the the leds flicker and die, the other 1/4 (same in both units) there is no reaction. Both sealed units. So units may have been spooked by some electical charge causeing similar failure.


However, local Halfords have the lights for £20 on click and connect, so a quick trip whilst the wiring loom is out and replace like with like.


But at least I now know where to run the horn wires.





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snowie - 2018-08-21 5:30 PM

So; you two guys have fitted your own DLR installations?

Can you share your experience please,

2008 Ducato X250 PVC


If you go to https://www.ledcom.co.uk/ pick your lights then look under downloads on that page and there's a pdf to download of wiring instructions better than I could explain.

This is ebay number of similar lites to mine been ok for 3 yrs now


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I am afraid my DRLs are a quick and dirty fix !


Apologies for the wiring as I have been fault finding, mind you it did not look much better when fixed. Position of DRLs and wiring probably break any requirements or standards, so on your head be it !


DRLs from Halfords £20 (Amazon £15 / Ebay £25 ) Take your pick


DRL relay from Amazon IIRecall was about £10


Photos show the Mounting.


The DRLs are about 30mm high and 125 long and just high enough to wedge between the fins of the radiator cover. I cut out a vertical fin to allow the DRL to fit in the space.


The Relay is fixed to the top of the engine fuse box with industrial Velcro tape.


The wiring is pretty simple.


I took a feed from the permanent live 8-) (take care) where the jump start terminal for the battery is housed through a fuse to feed the relay. (3 amp)


I took the earth from a convenient bolt fixing by the headlight fitting.


An additional wire has to be taken from the sidelight connector to the relay, so that the DRLs turn off when the side lights / headlights come on. Initially I used a snap connector, but the wire is quite thin, and I was worried about getting false signals into the canbus and getting dash board lights, so I soldered the connection and ran it to another fuse, then to the relay.


Two black (negative) two red (positive) wires come out of the relay, to the LEDs.


Pros : Worked OK until recently and the fault was found to be the DRLs going faulty over 6 years use.



The DRLs do not come on when the engine starts, I have to turn the sidelights on, then off, for the DRLs to work. Not a problem has become automatic now to dab the switch.


A problem, which may have lead to the failure of the DRLs, is that when I use a Cteck charger, the relay senses the high voltage and switches on the DRLs whilst the charger is on. I lift the bonnet and pull the main fuse, before charging.


However this problem does not arise when on site with a EHU as the habitation voltage does not rise high enough. The Cteck goes to about 14.4 volts initially, the EHU seems to hover around 13.4 volts when it gets around to charging the vehicle battery. (My Rapido charges the habitation battery, when done, will proceed to charge the vehicle battery)


Changes I mean to make, but never seem to get round to are:


Wire an ignition live feed from the fuse box under the relay.

And / or wire a switch using ignition live feed.







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