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Van Blitz type Alarm for £39 - Never


Terrytraveller

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JudgeMental,

 

I'll let you have the last word. After all it's so inaccurate, and you continue to 'quote' me as writing things that simply aren't in my posts, that it's pointless to continue.

 

Why waste my time? Bye, bye, forum!

 

 

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icelander - 2007-02-04 6:06 PM

 

Can I repeat my request for information please. Where and what lock is good for sheilding or replacing curent habitation doors of coach builts. The one that covers the lock from the outside - any views please?

 

Not sure if the ones shown here

 

http://www.discountfiamma.com/products/comfort_line/security/index.html#002

 

are what you are looking for, but they are the only ones I know of.

 

Bas

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Mel E, I am sorry you feel like that and need to depart the forum, but it really is important not to take offence at what people say.

 

I think it is always wise to remember a sign I have on my fridge.

 

"what you think you heard is not what I said, and what I said is not what I meant"

 

Jon.

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Hi Rob,

 

I fitted the Safeways D160 to the habitation door on my last motorhome, it was very difficult to fit as the habitation door had a fly screen door attached to it. So decided to fit the Fiamma safe door to the MH I have now, which also has a fly screen and was much easier to fit.

 

I also bought the Cab Door D125 roll bolts, but changed the MH before getting round to fitting them. Have a look at Brian’s site (ourwanderer.org) to see how he fitted the roll bolts to the cab doors.

 

There are a number of companies selling Van armoured locks, have a google on the net to find some of them.

 

Regards Terry

 

http://www.ourwanderer.org/peug3.htm#Page%203

 

http://www.safewaysltd.co.uk/

 

 

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Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for your comments, regarding your post which together with all others, make very interesting and amusing reading, on my rather controversial heading.

 

Nobody should be taking too seriously any of the remarks, but try to read the underlying message, which I am certain mean no harm, I always take them in good fun.

 

I have detected on this Forum a magnitude of retired professional people and graduates from the University of Life, most of us have oodles of knowledge but from time to time, we need to ask the advice of others, as we might not have teenagers at home to fill in any gaps of our knowledge which have occurred for one reason or another. I think we all appreciate the forum where we can ask others, and have a bit of fun at the same time.

 

I thank all those responders for and against, who have taken up the gauntlet.

 

On a more personal note - Nobody would take umbrage at your first remark below, but they could do perhaps at the second remark – it sort of demeans the DIYer and says he’s cheap and skimped on the job, although I know you didn’t mean it to be taken in that context.

 

Rem 1 “As a large proportion of the cost of professional alarm installation is the labour to fit them it is unfair to compare a diy fit alarm sytem to a commercially installed one on price.”

 

Rem 2 “unfair to compare a cheap diy installed alarm with an expensive professionally installed system”

 

Regards Terry

 

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Guest JudgeMental
starspirit - 2007-02-04 5:33 PM

 

 

So Eddie and Mel it's loaded kippers at dawn is it then?

 

 

No, but I would gladly buy him breakfast (luv kippers) :-)

 

If he would stop being daft and stick around to fight another day?

 

I admit to being tenacious, and can appear somewhat flippant.

And would hate to see any one leave on my account.

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Well all I can say is that we had a Strikeback alarm fitted, OK it was expensive but what the hell we had jsut spent over £30 grand on a vehicle. We fell happy knowing it is reasonably secore, I would rather do that than spend hundreds of pounds on Satellite TV expensive Sat nav etc, etc, As for the workmanship and courtesy of the staff they were great, good camp site, courtesy vehicle into town we had a great couple of days there. If you want cheap when it dont work dont moan.

 

David

 

PS and we have short arms and deep pockets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Hi Terry, I don't think anyone has criticised your cheap alarm or your intentions behind this thread, to let people know there are cost effective alternatives to professionally installed alarm systems.

 

terry wrote:

 

"On a more personal note - Nobody would take umbrage at your first remark below, but they could do perhaps at the second remark – it sort of demeans the DIYer and says he’s cheap and skimped on the job, although I know you didn’t mean it to be taken in that context.

 

Rem 1 “As a large proportion of the cost of professional alarm installation is the labour to fit them it is unfair to compare a diy fit alarm sytem to a commercially installed one on price.”

 

Rem 2 “unfair to compare a cheap diy installed alarm with an expensive professionally installed system” "

 

I have re-read my comments several times and the only error I can find is I should have placed a comma after the word "cheap" in the second comment. However, I beleive it could only be misunderstood in the way you suggest by someone who chose to deliberately mis-interpret my meaning, it is noted that you did not do this. ;-)

 

D.

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Dave,

 

Your remarks acknowledged with thanks.

 

Rob,

 

Just got back from Homebase, they still had the Micromark MM23084 on clearance sale, marked down from £39.99 to £15.99.

 

The "Never" bit to me was mean't to mean "I don't believe it" and your interpretation is spot on as well.

 

So bought another one for spares, although I reiterate, or is that irritate?, that it has never been switched off, its either armed or on standyby, and has been trouble free for over three years now, except to one tea leaf who attempted to break in, and that caused him trouble - with a capital T, as the song goes.

 

Regards Terry

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Terry - Glad they still had one in stock for you.

 

I purchased the £31.99 6 zone 4 PIRs model then realized that there was a 2 zone 2 PIRs model so bought 2 of them. Maybe I will take the 6 zone back as unused. After all they say if you are not happy with it you can take it back for a full refund.

 

From alarm companies - I have used some in the past - they sell those self adhesive window breaking sensors. I guess these could be fitted on the small cab windows with maybe some coiled sprung flexible cable.

 

Rob

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Hi Jon,

 

First question yes to all, 2nd question the control box supplies the external siren with power from the either the battery back up in the control box and from the leisure battery when connected. The unit on standby and monitoring, uses 0.08 mA (80 milliamps), important to MHers, is how long would it work on a fully charged leisure battery.

 

I would estimate 44 days on a fully charged 85amp battery. I have a solar panel on my van so it has been going for over three years without connecting to the mains.

 

Assuming a thief were to locate, cut and/or remove the external siren, which is usually hidden behind a vent, but could be mounted on the surface of the van, the internal sounder would go active on cutting the wires, as would any disruptions to the wiring anywhere in the system. The external sounder does not have its own battery.

 

The external siren is 110 Db and quite earpiercing outside when activated, the internal sounder in the control box, has a sort of continuous Dong Dong sound, and is sufficiently loud enough to wake you from a 12 year old Malt alcohol induced slumber.

 

Regards Terry

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Hi Rob,

 

Yes you might as well take the 6 zone back, although do you need one for the house?

 

I have been thinking about protecting the quaterlights and how to do it. One simple method is to hinge the door mirrors so they would have to be moved to get at the rubber strip and glass.

 

I mentioned before, I have fitted a further alarm under the bonnet, this one has an adjustable shock sensor, if the door mirror was to be moved with a bit of a click (it is under tension), then the underbonnet alarm will activate.

 

You really want some sort of switch, maybe a mercury tilt type switch stuck inside the mirror assembly, the wiring could go down the same route as the door electrics, and wired in series as are the other door magnetic reed switches.

 

The other anti theft method I have seen, is sticking some very thin metal shim to the quaterlight window rubbers using evo-stick impact adhesive, making it impossible to cut the window rubbers with a craft knife.

 

Regards Terry

 

 

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I like the idea of hidden mercury tilt switches. Used to have some but know a electrician who can help supply there when the time comes. I have alarm for house. One good thing about alcove model motorhome - this being my first - is the almost complete lack of frost on the windscreen including when not in use. So chuffed there. Wondering about gaslow now. Will go to that thread.
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Terry, can you check the current consumption again, I think 80mA is a bit high and it could be less.

Also you will not get 44 days at 80mA because you never get the full capacity out of a battery and also there may be other loads and also self discharge. The reason I doubt the consumption is Micromark also make a few alarms all based on the same circuits and some are a lot lower, especially those working on batteries only.

Jon.

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Guest JudgeMental

And the point of a tilt switch on a motorhome is?

 

hardly going to be lifted and towed away

 

or jacked up for wheels to be stolen?

 

or am I missing something...

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