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Truma boiler dead as a Dodo :-(


Sue Hughes

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Hi all, I'm new to this brilliant site so please bear with......

 

I have a converted camper van with a Truma 4E boiler on board. It has completely died on me. There is no response from it all, either on gas or elec.

 

I've had the fuse out and all OK. I've used a voltmeter (first time so chuffed with myself) and there is power definitely going to the boiler. I've disconnected and reconnected the comms cable going to the rotary dials (analogue not digital controls ), I've also removed and returned 2 cables going into the boiler to attempt a reset as advised on this site . But still there is no response at all..

 

Before I make a 4 hour return trip to the company where I purchased the van does anyone have any other ideas PLEASE . ty

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Some vans have a switch that shuts the boiler off fitted to any window that is over the outlet on the side of the van , if there is one fitted on your van you should be able to see it on the window frame and maybe the window is not fully closed.

When you had the wiring cover of to check the comms cable was there any sign of a small flashing LED near to where it plugs into the boiler PCB ,

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Thanks so much Buddy.

 

However there is no switch on or by the window and also there is no LED on the boiler - or at least if there is its not illuminating.

 

Dont suppose you can think of an other possible reasons why it's dead ?

 

Could it have overheated, killing the fan perhaps (I only ask this because when I had it on for hot water -in the heatwave last Thursday evening - the boiler did get rather hot and when I went to turn it on the following morning that was when I got no response from it )

 

Thankyou

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The Truma 4E Combi boiler has a overheat reset button it is under the wiring cover at the opposite end to the Comms connection and is described as a red button ( I thought it only applied to 240v but may be worth checking)
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Thanks Colin.

 

I disconnected/reconnected the comms cables on both ends but no luck im afraid.

 

Also there is no LED panel (it's an older model with no LED display , the control panel has got rotary dials with no facility to display error codes. There no light anywhere around the boiler (ive had the cover off to check the fuse/work on cables etc)

 

thankyou..any other ideas at all ?

 

 

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When you say you have checked the fuse can you confirm you mean the 12v one on the boiler under the wiring cover and was it the 12v power supply to the unit that you found to be ok. (not 230v)

The error code LED if flashing would be near the boiler Comms plug in connection under the wiring cover along with a small reset button for the electronics, Do you know the approx age of the boiler?

 

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Hi Buddy

 

.Thankyou for all your help.

 

i think bit beyond my limited capabilities to test for continuity ' on comms cable :'(

 

 

yes i definitely checked the 12 v fuse - looking at the boiler diagram the 230 v fuse is too deep within the unit and i read here that its for professional access only so I steered well away !

 

 

sadly yhere are no lights at all on the boiler - i think its an old boiler 4E but nit sure hiw old.all i know is it has rotary controls with not an LED screen in sight so no error codes and it seems no lights either around the boiler

 

thanks again

 

im stuck :'(

 

 

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Yes the 230v fuse is deeper in and anyway it should not effect 12v/gas operation , The rotary controls (which my 2015 van also has) get there 12v power supply from the combi boiler through the comms cable which is why I suggested a check on it if possible , the PCB in the boiler may also be faulty which a Truma approved agent should be able to check . If the van is under warrenty Is it possible that the Dealer you purchased from would allow a Truma agent local to you to check it out and report back to them to save you a long round trip ? or depending on your location maybe a member on here near could help with checking a few of these things out.
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Hi Sue

The Error code/light that others are referring to has nothing to do with the rotary control panel. If you are kneeling in front of the boiler with the long grey panel that covers the electrical connections on the far side of the boiler (which is how mine is orientated) get a small mirror so that you can see back amongst the boiler connections and there is a small red LED amongst the connections that flashes in sequence a number of times depending on what the problem is. Turn off the mains voltage for safety it should still indicate on the 12v and its safer, I hope that helps. If you kill all the power in the van but most particularly the mains - you should be quite safe checking the fuse under the same cover but if you have any doubts you will need an electrician.

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You may have to remove the large grey plastic cover on the top of the boiler to see the LED. It flashes 8 times in a sequence of long and short flashes. Record the sequence more than once, so you get it right.

I have sent you a message to your e-mail with the 11 pages of Flash Codes

 

You say you have checked a fuse. Which fuse and where is it located.

 

If you have no power to the Truma Combi E4 it could be the fuse on the Schault Electrobloc EBL which is where the Truma Combi will draw the 12v supply from. There is a fuse on the Electrobloc EBL and I've had to replace one some years ago to get power to the Truma Combi E4. The Electrobloc EBL was under the driver's seat and I had to take the seat out to get to it.

 

 

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I think it might help if Sue could confirm the make, model, and year of her van, and also, by reference to the operating manual (if available) that the heater is a Combi 4e. According to Truma, the Combis were introduced during 2007.

 

Chas suggests that the electrics will be by Schaudt, but unless Sue has already confirmed this (in which case my apologies, but I've missed it :-)), it is possible that they are not.

 

If Sue can do this, it is possible that someone with a similar van will be able to add to the picture.

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Hi all,

 

thank you so much for your help. ive taken a few photos. I think its a 2011 model. I haven't found any lights at all flashing or otherwise around the boiler . i replaced the fuse thats visible in the picture (the 12v)

 

please if you can offer any furher advise id really appreciate it. I'm absolutely stuck now !!

IMG_3970.jpg.545bbde71cb5106282b9265d23fe15fe.jpg

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The fault code LED if it was flashing is next to the right hand red crimpted wire on you photo but as the light is not flashing a fault code I think it may be a boiler PCB fault These PCB boards can be tested and repaired if needed by A & R Electronics Developments and it could be worth phoning them to see if they have any more ideas as to what the problem could be and what else you can check. 01543 579302 is their contact number
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A & R Electronic Developments Ltd, are at Unit 14 Littleton Business Park, Littleton Drive, CANNOCK, Staffordshire WS12 4TR Tel: 01543 579302.

 

Also, Truma UK has a customer service centre at Truma Ltd, 2000 Park Lane, Dove Valley Park, Foston, Derby, DE65 5BG, Tel: 01283 587 900. They used to have a service centre at their premises to which you could take your van for testing and repair. Don't know if that facility still exists.

 

Sue hasn't said which part of the country she is in, but the Truma website https://tinyurl.com/2zrezmlm lists various "dealers" and "service centres" (most of which seem no more than caravan/motorhome dealers), but also "mobile independent service engineers" who should be more technically competent.

 

Personally, I'd start by contacting Truma directly (who make the things, so should know more about them than anyone else) in the first instance. Note the info you'll need to give them from the data plate on your Combi, ('though it seems that whoever installed the heater didn't tick the box to clarify when it was first commissioned - apparently in 2011, 2012 or 2013). Then, see what they say.

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I recently had problems with a Truma boiler/heater and contacted Ian from Motorhometech. Ian is very knowledgeable about Truma products and it was worth travelling to Nottingham for his technical expertise. He is a mobile technician and carried out the repair on a local campsite.

 

I don’t know how far from Nottingham you are but If all else fails Ian maybe able to help. http://www.motorhometech.co.uk/index.html

 

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Thankyou ll so much. Ive contacted Truma (as recommnedd by Colin) and spoke to a really helpful engineeer who said its either a broken comms cable or the PCB. im in Colchester Essex so sadly bit far from the engineer recommended by Jerrycan . any other ideas anyone ???? . Seems like I might need to iit 200 mile round trip to dealer to see if they'll help with replacing either the cable or the PCB , even tho were just out of warranty *-)
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As you said , earlier , you are not able to check the Comms cable for possible breakage using a continuity test with your multi meter you could try a replacement cable from e-bay (item No. 334268660912 ) You would need to work out the length you would need to go from the boiler to the rear of the control dials and plug each end in .Hopefully , If things then work , you will then need to run the replacement cable out sight ( get a bit longer than you need). If this does not work it seems to only leave a faulty PCB and it will have to be repaired or replaced by the dealer or a Truma approved agent for your area. (There seems to be a few)

If you do decide to go back to the dealer , talk to them first , as I would not expect them to have either the Comms cable or PCB in stock.

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Thank you so much Buddy. Ive found the cable on ebay using that code you supplied (big thankyou for that info) . do you know if it turns out to be the comms cable is it typically a tricky job to take the paneling out to insert the new cable behind.

 

Im thinking of buying the cable just to test it before taking that long drive down to the dealer but if it turns out to be the problem im wondering if can install it myself ?

 

TY (lol)

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ChasB - 2022-08-19 1:44 PM

 

You may have to remove the large grey plastic cover on the top of the boiler to see the LED. It flashes 8 times in a sequence of long and short flashes. Record the sequence more than once, so you get it right.

I have sent you a message to your e-mail with the 11 pages of Flash Codes

 

You say you have checked a fuse. Which fuse and where is it located.

 

If you have no power to the Truma Combi E4 it could be the fuse on the Schault Electrobloc EBL which is where the Truma Combi will draw the 12v supply from. There is a fuse on the Electrobloc EBL and I've had to replace one some years ago to get power to the Truma Combi E4. The Electrobloc EBL was under the driver's seat and I had to take the seat out to get to it.

 

Was it ascertained why there was no 12v to the Combi? On my Electroblock EBL271 there is a 10A fuse in the supply to the Combi which is a 'permanent supply' which does not require any switching or operation of the Combi.

[ Sorry please ignore I have just reread the original post where it says "I've had the fuse out and all OK. I've used a voltmeter (first time so chuffed with myself) and there is power definitely going to the boiler."]

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It is not possible to say how difficult or easy it would be to replace the cable without knowing the exact make , model and year of your van in the hope that someone has done the same on a similar van. On my van the controls are above the entrance door and the Combi boiler is on the other side of the van under a seat so I expect the cable may run across the van ceiling and down the other side and may well have been fitted before the ceiling and walls when it was being built , so if I had the same problem on my van instead of removing the ceiling etc I would work out a possible different route for a replacement cable and buy that amount of cable .

If your boiler and controls are on the same side of your van this should be easier but it is not always possible to remove furniture panels without a lot of effort , but it should be possible , or you may find a cable route that you can follow or if you feel you would not be able to change the cable you could move the controls near to the boiler , for now , and buy a short cable for testing purposes.

Is there a car (or other) electrician that could check the cable continuity for you in your area as this would help in deciding if all of this is needed.

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