Two go Teutonic

[Robinhood]

It's been a while since I posted a trip report, but having just got back from an enjoyable tour, and having discovered some interesting new places and pitches, I thought I'd add another one.

Posting (good quality) pictures on the new forum isn't quite as simple as it was on the old one as there is limited capacity for attachments, and (apparently) no enabled capability to embed from an external host. The pictures I've used are therefore of a restricted size and resolution. They are reasonably illustrative, but for better quality I'll provide an external link to each picture which, if clicked, will lead to a bigger and better version (for anyone who wants to see a bit more detail).

As usual, we fitted a Continental trip in between other commitments, so were limited to 3½ weeks, starting on May 1st.

The only really solid plan for the holiday was to head to the German Alps, near Oberstdorf. At a similar time last year we'd pitched on a Stellplatz there in a very attractive location, but only stayed one night as the weather was dire. The current Mrs Hood said she'd like to go back (and that was, of course, non-negotiable!). 

The first two stops on the trip were, however, already cemented in. 

Having used the motorhome spaces at the P&R in Canterbury last year, this was on the itinerary for the first night. Travelling from the North Midlands has two downsides when using the Tunnel (or ferries) since there is every possibility of delay (sometimes, from experience, very long ones) and getting a crossing at a time that suits for onwards Continental travel means a less than convenient time for departure from home (or, of course, vice versa). The P&R is only about 30 minutes from the Tunnel, costs £8 for an overnight stay, and, with a midday departure from home makes for a leisurely and relaxed journey South. We combine it with an evening out in Canterbury for a meal and a drink. It is walkable, but the parking fee includes return tickets for the bus. It is, lets face it, merely a car park, albeit with water and dump point; It's not scenic, but it is quiet overnight (we tend to use the "overflow" motorhome area for better spacing than the main part). So, we overnighted on the Wednesday night, and set off for a 10-ish crossing by Eurotunnel on Thursday.

After an easy drive to the Tunnel, we arrived well in advance of the last reporting time. We tend to do this in case we get bumped up the queue for an earlier crossing - which, this time, we didn't. No problem, because plan B is a coffee and croissant breakfast to fill the time before scheduled departure (for which the call was on time, but the departure slightly late).   

Using the tunnel or ferries (at least from Dover/Folkestone) means that one's route every trip inevitably has some initial commonality. We've done long and short first days to mix things up a bit, but the usual suspects for stopovers are getting a bit "stale". Since B***** we've taken largely to complying with the rules on not importing foodstuffs to the Continent, so we also need to insert a shopping session early into our first day. Arriving at around midday French time thus inevitably means looking for somewhere not too far away for our first night, and I was in search of somewhere new and different.

Research found a couple of possibilities. Of the second, more later as it was used for the return journey, but the new aire at Tournai in Belgium looked a good candidate. Something under two hours drive from the tunnel; well placed to drop back into the East side of France; and even better, though it only has 12 spaces it is bookable online, so no concerns about turning up to no space. We have a "favourite" Supermarché at Wormhout, big enough to have choices, small enough to be manageable, and just off the Autoroute which we would use. So that fitted as well.

The old "aire" at Tournai was in a shared car park just off the inner ring road - not really the "ambience" we go for, and we would avoid it. The new one is not far away, just outside the ring road, set back, next to sporting facilities and municipal buildings, and barrier controlled. It is no more than 5 minutes easy walk to the Grand Place! I booked online, and, though the season was supposed to change on 1st May, I was charged the low-season rate of €8 (as opposed to €10) for my selected space - electricity, water and disposal all included. Entry/exit and services are controlled by a QR code, which I received by email. Marked out spaces (two parallel rows of 6, with spaces 6 and 12 respectively furthest from the main road noise), and as a hint, you need a male connector for the water supply. (something we're finding increasingly common - I carry a male-to-male connector).  

Arriving mid-afternoon gave us the opportunity to explore the city on foot. Whilst it's all a bit grey and Belgian (as was the weather) it was an interesting ramble, notable points being the Cathedral and the River Scheldt, squeezed through the centre in a narrowed channel requiring traffic lights to control the sizeable boats passing through. The latter also had an interesting design of lifting bridge; straight up on pillars at the four corners. We returned to the 'van for a rest, and then back into the centre to one of the many bars and restaurants for a meal (no CC accepted, something we find increasingly rare, even now in Germany). After a further explore, we returned for a quiet night (reviews of the aire are mixed on the amount of background noise - it is inner city after all - but we had absolutely no disturbance before traffic noise intruded about 07:00).

So, that was Tournai. A useful stopover, a good aire, a city worth a look round, but having done it, we won't be looking for a rapid return.

In the morning, off back into France and a good long hop to yet another new find, on our way to our German target.

Tournai1 - Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/8dtKp3Q

Tournai2 - Link to higher resolution image:
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Tournai3 - Link to higher resolution image:
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[John52]

1 hour ago, Robinhood said:

Since B***** we've taken largely to complying with the rules on not importing foodstuffs to the Continent

Did they check your food going in to France?

[davidmac]

Hi, have stopped overnight at the aire in Tournai a number of times at the old carpark site and once at the new site. Twice when we have stopped there a large funfair has been encamped on the car park and on the grassed area adjacent to it. Motorhome parking was moved to a narrow track that runs out the back of the car park. Very noisy until 10pm but then ok.

Went to the LeMans classic last July with my son-in-law and his friend, Newhaven/ Dieppe crossing loaded with all the food we needed for our four day trip. No checks outbound but on returning to Newhaven we were asked if we had any meat in the motorhome, we said we had some on the way out but we had eaten it all, the lady customs officer had a good laugh and sent us on our way.

Regards David 

[Robinhood]

I think I need to put a trigger warning at the top of my posts for the word "B*****"  🙄

As already highlighted, our one planned destination on this trip was in the German Alps. We wanted to get down there reasonably quickly, but as the weather was settled, and it was a significant distance, we decided to schedule in a couple of days en-route somewhere in the Black Forest.

Even this was too long a drive for a relaxing day from Tournai (c350 miles), the forecast was for improved weather heading South, and this would have burnt some of the reasonable weather driving. (we tend to "bank" good days) So, a shorter drive, and an afternoon/evening exploring somewhere looked like a good idea.

As it happens, previous research had uncovered a newly-built aire at Vic-sur-Seille in the French Moselle Department. I quite like small-town France on a warm day and evening, and, though it was still some distance at 240 miles or so, it was a relatively easy drive, and moved us on nicely.

Leaving in the damp at some time after 9, and with a further shopping stop on the way, we got to Vic-sur-Seille at around 3 in much improved weather.

When we arrived, there was a big notice pinned to the pay station ("Unfortunately, etc..........") and we thought we'd have to move on, but when I read/translated it properly it was stating that the aire wouldn't be available for several days from the next weekend - reason not stated - so we were OK.

I think the aire is only months old. It's convenient for the town, nicely laid out, and.....it costs the grand sum of €5.90 per night. (Payable by card to control the barrier) For us, that included electricity, water and disposal. Various write-ups state both electricity and water are chargeable, but there is no implemented method of charging for the former, and though the water had a coin slot, it was freely available (once again, only if you had a male adapter). For most of our time there there was also free wifi, but later, and inexplicably, it went behind a paywall.

We liked it here. Being new, the aire needs to "weather" somewhat, and the vegetation grow a bit, but it felt comfortable and safe. The town was typical small town France, possibly looking a little more prosperous than many, with a few bars and restaurants, a couple of Boulangerie/Pâtisseries, and a small shop that seemed to sell almost everything. In warm weather it was easy to while away the time strolling, and we ate back at the 'van.

Eight spaces are advertised; from memory I'd say maybe a couple more. We were in splendid and quiet isolation during our time there though we thought we'd have neighbours for the night when someone paid to come through the barrier, but they simply dumped and replenished water and left. Given you can leave temporarily and not lose your slot, we thought they'd return later, but they didn't! (I suppose €5.90 isn't an outrageous price for the services).

There wasn't an obvious amount of local "entertainment" other than bimbling round the town and vicinity (bikes might be an idea), but we'd certainly use this place for an overnight spot again.

With the weather still reasonably fair, the Black Forest was the next target, and though we've had a good few sessions there, once again we were looking for somewhere new. 

Vic-sur-Seille1 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/fXGMmK3

Vic-sur-Seille2 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/88x5nYd
 

Edited May 30 by Robinhood

[Robinhood]

...and so, after an early visit to the Boulangerie, off to the Black Forest we went.

We've used a good few Stellplätze (and indeed campsites in the more distant past) here, and were once again looking for a new location to explore. A choice of 3 had presented themselves on research, and we decided to go and look at Oberprechtal, which, at 120 miles via Strasbourg was achievable with a half-day drive.

It turned out to be a good choice. Tucked away quietly behind the Tourist Information Office and next to the outdoor pool, it had space for around 12 'vans, with open views across the adjoining fields down into the valley. It was mildly sloping at one end, and rather more so at the other, but we manage to level nicely at the "better" end using chocks. The cost was €15 per night, but included everything, electricity, water*, and disposal. Payment was at the Tourist Info, but it being weekend (Saturday) this was closed, so it was via form (from a box) and envelope (and money!) through the letter box. As it happens, the toilet block under the office was also permanently open (and very clean). I suspect that paying when the office was open would give access to the "Konus Card", giving amongst other things free public transport throughout the Black Forest. Given our plans, not getting it was no issue.

You probably need to arrive provisioned, as there are no shops except a butchers within walking distance - though there are a couple of restaurants very close. (The nearest is Michelin listed, and not cheap!). (online details indicate a bakery in the village, but it appears to be permanently closed).

After pitching with a single existing but absent neighbour, we had a late-ish lunch, and set out to walk part of the valley on pleasant paths. Rain threatened, but didn't materialise, and we returned after 7.5 miles to be joined by first one, and then another 'van. *The first arrival dumped the cassette, but couldn't get any water to rinse. The fresh water wasn't delivering either! I tried both to no effect. There was a laminated notice on the Stellplatz information board to the effect that the water would be turned off in Winter, but May isn't Winter, is it?. I was resigned as a fall-back to getting fresh water from the toilet block, which was a good several hundred yards walk away.

When the next 'van arrived and pitched next to us, I warned them that there was no water. A family with two young girls, the Mum went and tried it, again with no effect. At that point, one of the girls hung out of the window and shouted something, and Mum went back and turned the tap at least 6 full turns, at which point the water flowed! (I'm not sure where the girl's info came from - they were reasonably local and had short weekends away, but hadn't used the site before. I'm not sure the girls were actually sisters though, so maybe one of them had been before). Anyhow, they were a lovely "family" and we had some quite long conversations, flexing my Deutsch. 

Dinner was at the 'van (not at Michelin prices, or unfortunately quality) and we had another walk around the village in clearing weather, returning to find a 5th 'van on site. 

We liked the location and surroundings so, with the weather forecast being reasonable, we decided to have a rest from moving on, and stay another night.

The morning was good, so after a leisurely breakfast and a second "money posting" at the Tourist Info we set out on a signed walk, the "Felsen Tour". A circular tour round the hills, with a couple of high points. There were good views (something not always available in the Black Forest due to the trees) until we hit the highest point, when it clouded and started to rain. Happily, it cleared as we set off down, and the weather (and views) were then beautiful. We returned to the 'van after 8.5 miles (and much climbing) to find our neighbours all either gone or packing up - weekenders no doubt.

After dinner in the 'van, we had another evening walk, and a very quiet night alone.

We really liked it here, and would certainly consider using it again. There were other paths and directions to explore, but, the Alps were the ultimate target, so time to move on.

Oberprechtal1 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Oberprechtal2 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Oberprechtal3 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Oberprechtal4 : Link to higher resolution image:
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[Robinhood]

Good weather still wasn't "nailed on" in the Alps, and we didn't really want another abortive session there, so, with the forecast promising improvement later in the week, we cast around for a different option for a day or 2.

One possibility rather leapt out at us. Ulm was on our route further South, and had a Stellplatz that was reasonably well reviewed and convenient for a city visit by foot. We'd passed by Ulm (and even through some of it) on previous trips South, but never stopped off. Since heavy showers were predicted, now seemed a good opportunity to go and explore a city. It turned out to be a reasonable decision.

The Stellplatz is actually at Neu-Ulm, on the opposite side of, and set slightly back from, the Danube/Donau. It adjoins a large pool and leisure complex (Donaubad) and is only some 20 minutes or so walk along the river and over a pedestrian bridge (other bridges are available) to the centre of Ulm itself. Should you not want to walk there are local buses. There are 49 designated and divided slots, 10 of which are reserved for larger vehicles. (When I say reserved, they actually cost €4 more per night than the standard €14, and free ones tend to get used by any vehicle when the standard slots are full). Payment is by parking ticket machine; the card slot was inoperative, but luckily contactless was available. Electricity is €1 per kWh by coin, and water can be had by coin at anything from 10¢/c10litre upwards. (Though, on the two times I went with a container for water, it was in credit to the extent of €zillions, so I never paid). Grey and black disposal is free, and you can apparently use the toilet and shower facilities in the Donaubad complex. Free WiFi was available, but it failed on our second day, and though reported, I was told it was (currently) unfixable.

When full, overnighting is allowed in designated areas of the adjacent large leisure centre car park, at the same €14 fee, but without access to any electricity.

After roadworks and a couple of long "Umleitungen" we finally arrived at the Stellplatz around 13:30, and just snaffled what appeared to be the last available standard pitch (surprisingly, one of the better-positioned ones). There was a steady stream of further arrivals looking for space, and the overflow area got quite full by nightfall.

After a quick lunch at the 'van, we walked along the river and into the centre. Only about 20 minutes to a gate through the walls and into the historic "Fischerviertel". This is one of a number of sights worth seeing in Ulm, the most notable of course being Ulm Münster, which is the tallest church in the world, with its lattice-work spire and some pretty amazing stained-glass windows. The current Mrs H refused to climb the 768 steps to the top (and she wouldn't have liked the exposure of the lattice-work construction anyway), so I decided to pass as well! There's a modern shopping centre, and the walk around the older areas and the remaining walls is of interest. Unfortunately, we had one of the heavy showers, which drove us into the shopping area for shelter, but it largely dried up in time for us to walk back to the 'van for a rest. 

We walked back to the centre for a evening meal, seeking out a brewery mentioned in our ageing Rough Guide. It had moved since publication, but we still found its new location and dined and drank well, before ambling back to the 'van.

After a quiet night, we decided we could fill another day exploring the local area, so we paid again and had a leisurely start to the day. The weather was rather better than the forecast and much improved, so we set out for a good walk along the Danube; down one side for some miles, across a bridge and back on the other, heading into town for Kaffee und Kuchen, taking in an odd Einstein fountain on the way, and then back to the 'van.

We walked back into town in the evening, and visited a different Brewery for food and drink, with a further exploratory wander round older bits of the town both before and after. 

On returning to the Stellplatz there were lots of vans in the overflow area again, and another quiet night ensued. 

We enjoyed Ulm probably even more than we thought we would, but the forecast was slowly improving, promising some dry, hot days in the Alps, so time to move on.

(And, as I write this, the website for the Ulm Stellplatz has a pop-up notice that everyone was thrown off on Friday night, 31st May. Apparently the Danube is about to burst its banks, and despite having comprehensive concrete flood defences in place, the whole area, including the pool and extensive leisure facilities, has been evacuated and they're urgently bringing in more barriers!).

Ulm1 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Ulm2 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Ulm3 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Ulm4 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Ulm5 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Edited June 3 by Robinhood

[Thai Bry]

Hello again

Hope you and Mrs H are keeping well.

Really enjoy your travel reports. 

We had a couple of days in "Neu Ulm" a few years back when touring southern Germany. The picture of the "Wonky" house / hotel brought back happy memories, as we stayed the night there.

Neu Ulm is a very pretty city, and we still have a copy of the mascot of Neu Ulm - the bird with the little twig in its mouth. Apparently this is based on a story of a bird trying to build a nest in the old city walls but could not seem to get the twig into the crevice. Until it learnt that if it flew in and turned it's head sideways, it could get the little twig into the crevice. True or not I don't know, but it's a good story.

We also will be touring Southern Germany again this year. Hence our interest in your tours, as you give us some ideas of stellplatz's to use.

Keep your tales coming.

 

Edited June 5 by Thai Bry

[Robinhood]

And so, next morning we set off for our only planned destination on this trip, Obermaiselstein.

Some years ago we stayed on a campsite at Oberstdorf for a short while. We found the area attractive, though the town was, in September, very busy. Last May, having decided to revisit, we found a Stellplatz at Obermaiselstein, a few miles away - smallish, and definitely more to our taste than the large equivalent at Oberstdorf. We really took to the place, but the weather was dire, so we left after one night vowing to return.

Obermaiselstein is a medium-sized village, with a few restaurants/bars, a very good Tourist Information Office, a very basic shop (bread to be ordered the day before), and a bakery that has never seemed open whilst we've been there. So, provision-up if you're planning to stay. It's position means it would best suit those who like the outdoors (and walking, unless you use the buses).

The Stellplatz is to the front of a small Restaurant/Bar, which must be seasonal as it has never been open whilst we've been there (but apparently is now), and also utilises the area of a redundant tennis court to the side. The spaces to the front are best as they have an open view to the surrounding mountains. The charge is €17 per night, plus €5 for electricity. This covers all services including WiFi, with toilet and showers (€1 for the latter) being available in separate M/F rooms, and a laundry with both washer and dryer useable at €1 each. Payment is to the owner/Platzwart who is very friendly, and is present morning and evening. Pay when you decide to leave, but a €30 (deductible) deposit is requested on arrival to cover the keys for the facilities and a Gästekarte each, giving various discounts (lifts, etc.) and free travel on the various buses serving the village and surroundings - Oberstdorf being a possibility. 

We left Ulm shortly after 9am, and arrived at Obermaiselstein shortly after midday after a supermarket stop on the way to replenish provisions. There were two of the better slots left, but an old wooden chair was positioned on one, and bikes (just) on the other. Luckily, the people adjacent returned whilst we dithered, admitted the bikes were theirs, and so we took that pitch. (I never did work out why the chair was on the other pitch, I'm sure it wasn't "official", but it kept anyone off it until fairly late on). There was still a little drizzle around, and the state of the water courses indicated that there had been some substantial rain previously, so we decided on a local afternoon walk, something that is very easy given the plethora of routes, had a nice afternoon, and returned to the 'van for dinner, followed by an evening walk around the village. The Stellplatz was beginning to fill up.

The next day, Thursday, arrived with beautiful weather. It was also "Himmelfahrt" (Ascension) which accounted for the rather full appearance. (The Germans synchronise this with Vatertag, and then tend to take Friday off to create a long weekend). We knew about Himmelfahrt, but the fact that it was also Vatertag in Germany had only hit us on our previous evening walk, where the local Freiwillige Feuerwehr (volunteer firefighters) were preparing the fire station for a "Vaterfest". Mobile bars, music, food, fire-engine rides, etc. The appliances had to be parked up the road, since every inch of the station was being set up for the occasion. Heaven knows what would have happened if there'd been a callout.

On our theme of "banking" good weather, we set off along the valley for Bolsterslang, where a lift would take us up for a high-level walk and relaxed descent. The alpine meadows this early in the year are largely untouched by mowing, so the scenery and variety of wildflowers was very attractive. The lift attracts a (small) discount on the Gästekarte, and at the top there's a pleasant walk to a mountain "hut" serving meals and beer (dashed civilised, the Germans). We stopped for a beer and the breathtaking views, and then set about the rest of our walk, which took us up above the snow-line before descending via a deep valley (the ascending mountain bikers having to disappointedly turn back when they hit the snow!). 10 miles walking, dinner at the 'van on return, and then off to help the firemen with their beer, accompanied by an "Oompah band" (Ample beer left, even after a full day's well-attended celebration). With the long-weekend on us, the Stellplatz was "rammed" for the night, with people slotted in everywhere. We weren't particularly bothered as our spot didn't encourage anyone slotting in anywhere near us, and the night was very quiet.

And, as hoped for, the next three days were all hot and sunny, so we used our time exploring the many paths up and down the valley. Walks of 12, 14 and 11 miles respectively, all at a lower level than the first day, but with beautiful views of the rivers and mountains, and very little repeat walking of any paths. A couple of circular walks deposited us at Oberstdorf in the early afternoon, and we ate an excellent late lunch both times at the outdoor space of a delightful restaurant in the back streets. The other day we had Kaffe and Kuchen at lunchtime in Fischen, in the opposite direction, dining back at the 'van. Oberstdorf in particular was much quieter than when we had visited some years ago, maybe because, as I found out later, the main lift wasn't running. One day's walk brought us the rather incongruous sight of a British red telephone box in the middle of a small German village (and it didn't even have a defibrillator in it!). We completed our days with a stroll around the immediate village area every evening.

I can't really overstate the pleasantness of Obermaiselstein, especially for anyone who enjoys walking and the outdoors. Yes, it was (very) busy whilst we were there, it being a Bank Holiday "bridge" weekend, but by Sunday night, the Stellplatz had returned to being considerably less than full (and, as already alluded to, though busy over the holiday, it was always quiet from early evening). I think it's somewhere we might visit again, but 5 nights in one spot is quite unusual for us, so it might be a little time before a revisit.

Obermaiselstein1 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/j5F649Q

Obermaiselstein2 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Obermaiselstein3 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Obermaiselstein4 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/z22L0Sb

Obermaiselstein5 : Link to higher resolution image:
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[Robinhood]

Having had 5 very enjoyable nights, it was time to move on. The weather forecast was the deciding factor in moving East, and, having mulled over a few options, we finally decided, with only minor reluctance, on Andechs. It was about the appropriate distance, the weather forecast was OK, and we knew it would be acceptable as it was where we had moved on to the previous year after we were washed out at Obermaiselstein. That latter explains the minor reluctance, as we like to explore new places, but we'd only had one night there anyway, and there were wider walking opportunities, so, at sometime after 9am we set off, arriving at Andechs after a shopping stop sometime after midday.

The Stellplatz at Andechs is separate from but adjoins the main car park for the Kloster (Abbey) which is quite a tourist draw, not least because it has its own well-regarded brewery and beer garden! It has a good number of decently divided spaces, and costs €19 per night, with electricity, if required, at €5. You do get a €3.50 beer token on your parking ticket, though! Payment is by parking machine, which in theory takes cards, but in practice didn't. (Whilst attempting, the very pleasant Platzwart arrived and advised me it wouldn't, so I paid by notes/coins. Whether it didn't like my UK card I don't know, but others appeared to be having problems too). Water is chargeable, grey and black waste disposal free. There are reasonably acceptable toilets in the adjacent car park.

With only part of the afternoon left, we set out for a short (<10 mile) bike ride on the not-too-smooth local tracks. Since the current Mrs H's hip replacement, she'd only been on her bike a few times, and fallen off and injured herself on a couple of those. Accordingly, this was an exploratory confidence-booster, which she completed slowly but successfully - good for her!. 

Then, up to the Abbey for a beer on the terrace in the late afternoon sun, dinner at the 'van, and an evening walk into the nearby town (Where there is a reasonably-stocked Edeka supermarket).

A quiet night again (The adjacent large car park is mainly empty by mid-evening, apart from people using it as a Stellplatz overflow, or possibly, against the regulations, to avoid paying for the Stellplatz).

The weather forecast for the next day, Tuesday, was good, and it lived up to that. Having not explored much on our previous visit, we wanted to stay and walk, so we did! We targeted a stroll through the forest down to Herrsching on the Ammersee, and it looked as if we could walk a decent stretch of the lake shore before returning via a different route. (I last camped on the (opposite) shore of Ammersee in 1983 returning from climbing in Austria). 

It was a good day. Kaffee/Kuchen in Herssching, a walk along the lakeside with the Alps in the distance, a beer at a kiosk, then back through the woods to the 'van. 11 miles in all, and we were ready for more beer and a meal up at the Abbey. (The beer is good, the food very Germanic - think Pork Belly and Sauerkraut as an example, and it is nice to sit in the evening sun and watch the world go by).

Another quiet night, and the weather forecast for the morrow looked a bit challenging! 

Andechs1 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Andechs2 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Andechs3 : Link to higher resolution image:
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[laimeduck]

Robin
Well  ..... that brought back some memories..... I used to go picknicking for the weekend on Ammersee in the mid 1970's when I was a research student at the Max-Planck-Institut für Virusforschung in Tübingen with some German friends. We are still friends and meet up fairly regularly!

Good times in a lovely location.

[Robinhood]

With the weather forecast looking somewhat iffy almost everywhere, it was time to move on again. The one "oasis" of forecast fine weather was again to the East, around Passau.

I've quite wanted to visit Passau for some time, but the cantrally located Stellplatz isn't really "one of our places", it generally appearing crowded, busy and noisy (YMMV). Accordingly, to take advantage of the weather we looked at possibilities round about, finally selecting the Stellplatz at Vilshofen an der Donau at a marina, as a favoured destination. With only 17 marked spaces, there would be no guarantee of a space, but we decided to try it.

Setting off from Andechs after breakfast, the 130 mile trip meant we arrived at 13:30 to find three spaces of the 17 available. The payment system here is, as we were immediately told on arrival by existing incumbents, "complicated". In reality, because there were instructions in English, it wouldn't have been if everything had worked properly.

You drive to the barrier and take an issued ticket with a QR code. Presenting that opens the barrier. You then choose one of the vacant pitches, and scan (with your mobile) a QR code attached to that pitch. That brings up a website which either tells you the particular pitch is occupied (and the occupant is out but expected to re-enter), or invites you to book it (for 1 to 3 days) by scanning the ticket you used to enter. Then, you enter your details (quite a lot of them) and it invites you to pay by "card". In practice, it consistently got as far as the last bit, and then, despite trying, it would go no further. There is a warning on the instructions not to use the site WiFi for this, as it may drop out, but I consistently could get no further even on mobile data. Various people offered advice (mainly on the overall method, which was cleared, not on the failure to progress to the end) until one of our neighbours asked to look at the 'phone, pressed the screen button "weiter" that did nothing for me, and it immediately worked! "Magic fingers" said her partner. After that, and on further rebooking, I had no problems.

We booked for one day (since it was obvious one could rebook daily). The cost was €20 per night including everything (electricity, water, disposal, WiFi), and there was a very acceptable toilet block, where showers could be had for €1. The electric points were distributed around the site, the first pitch I'd looked at didn't have an unused one within a cable's length, so we moved to another (I do carry an extension cable, but prefer not to use it if it can be avoided).

The Stellplatz is on the opposite side of the river to Vilshofen, which is accessible by the adjoining road bridge. Whilst close to roads, the noise wasn't over-intrusive, particularly overnight. However, the other side of the bridge embankment there is an airfield. During the day there are a good few light-aircraft movements very low over the Stellplatz, and even lower over the traffic on the bridge! (the runway starts 30m the other side of the embankment, and planes need to approach low and drop - all very exciting. No flights at all from early evening on.

There are some odd behaviours on Stellplätze, though. This one is comprehensively signed for vehicles up to 8m, but someone got on with a Concorde which was palpably much longer. TBF, he did manage to squeeze it into a corner pitch without too much overhang, but it would be an interesting manoeuvre getting out. In addition, whilst obviously full (the 17 pitches are in clear view from the barrier) we saw at least 3 people take tickets and drive on to look for space, only to have to reverse out. If you really can't see, why not park at the barrier and walk the 30 yards to check.

We spent the afternoon exploring the not-unattractive little town, and climbed up to the Abbey that overlooks it. (and that was the town done). After dinner at the 'van, we walked back into and around town to do a little top-up shopping, and then a quiet night.

The following day dawned fine, so we booked another night (all the steps except thos for the barrier, using the same ticket and process) and, having had a succesful short test-flight at Andechs, decided to cycle some distance along the Danube and back. Somewhere around 20 miles round trip in lovely weather, with a refreshment stop on the return journey. After dinner at the 'van we crossed the river for a further exploration of the town, and then back for another quiet night.

In our wanderings across the river, we'd checked the station and the trains for Passau. Whilst it was eminently possible to cycle into Passau (not much over 30 miles round trip along the Danube) if you want to explore, you have to cope with the bikes. The train was a rather more attractive proposition at something under £10 each return (though, in comparison with some German train fares, that seemed a bit steep). The weather forecast for the next day was not the best, but we resolved to do a Passau trip unless it was really daunting in the morning.

As it happened, the next day started damp, but we decided to book another day and risk it anyway. We donned waterproofs for the walk of about a mile to the station, which was the last time we needed them that day. It's a 15 minute train ride, and then off for Kaffee/Kuchen and a good explore of all the nooks and crannies of Passau. It has quite a spectacular setting on the triple confluence of the Danube, the Inn, and the Ilz rivers. It's of a size and layout that is walkable, and is very good for a day's exploration. A further Kaffee/Kuchen stop preceded some more exploration before dinner outside at the Ratskeller, and a wander back to the train, and back to Vilshofen.

We liked it here, but 3 days was enough, and the weather forecast still wasn't over-encouraging. We'd also really reached the apex of our travels and need to start our way back, so, tomorrow we'd move on. It's certainly a popular spot, so arrive early if you want a pitch.

Vilshofen1 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Vilshofen2 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Vilshofen3 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Vilshofen4 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Vilshofen5 : Link to higher resolution image:
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[Robinhood]

Time to start heading (slowly) back. Still time to discover a few more destinations, though the overall forecast wasn't good. 

As it happens, the (Saturday) morning was bright and sunny, so we decided to do a decent hop of around 120 miles, and have an afternoon to look around somewhere new. The Stellplatz at Freystadt, somewhat South of Nuremburg seemed to fit the bill, and after breakfast we set off. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived it was rather damp. The Stellplatz here is on the edge of the small town, and free (with chargeable electricity, etc.) It is next to, but entirely separate from, a large parking area which was barriered off, and obviously being prepared for some event. We took a pitch, and it being weekend took the short walk into town and the local supermarket (little Sunday opening in Germany). The town was small and largely unexceptional, and when we got back to the 'van, we decided to invoke our "if it's dry, bank it; if it's wet drive it", so we cast about for a further destination. (TBH, Freystadt would probably have made for a decent half-day if it hadn't been grey and damp).

We decided to target Dinkelsbühl, and get another 70 miles or so under our belt. We've visited here a few times before, and there's enough to occupy a half day, even in "schlecht" weather. We were pretty sure we'd get a space on the quiet Stellplatz run by the DCC on the edge of town, only for research to show it was no more! The pitches adjoining the car park nearer to the centre of town appeared to have been "fettled", though, so with slightly less confidence we set out for there.

As it happens, the weather improved quite a bit, and driving through Feuchtwangen en-route we diverted into the Stellplatz there, and grabbed the last vacant official space. It was now sunny with the odd dark cloud.

The Stellplatz here, is just off the main road (enough to be reasonably quiet), adjoins the outdoor pool and sports facilities, has 7 good-sized divided pitches, and is free (water and electricity chargeable). It adjoins a little-used car park which provides overflow capability (used by a few 'vans during our visit).

After a quick lunch, we walked into town and explored the environs. Not quite as much of interest as Dinkelsbühl (and it was very quiet), but enough to pass our time, and it was somewhere new to look around. Back to the 'van for dinner, then another explore of the area, and a sit outside in the evening sunshine rather vindicated our decision to move on from Freystadt.  

Feuchtwangen1 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/JmNdH6r

Feuchtwangen2 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/S7sy4Tw

Feuchtwangen3 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/wdSdjxn

 

[Robinhood]

Having rather done the Mosel "to death", the obvious next jump East was one we rather wanted to avoid. The weather forecast wasn't outstanding otherwise we might have settled on one of our favourite spots at Oberbrombach in the Hunsrück. A lovely place, but high, exposed and relatively isolated, so good weather is really a pre-requisite. 

Casting around we found a Stellplatz at Sankt Julian in the Rheinland Pfalz described as "idyllic" in reviews (which also complained about the charge being bumped from €5 to €10 "0vernight" - they should try the UK!). With that as a target, and diverting via the centre of Feuchtwangen for the bakery (we'd checked it would be open on Sunday), we set off before 9am for Sankt Julian. Of necessity we were having to do "miles" now, and this was roughly 170, much of it Autobahn.

We arrived shortly after midday, to find two German 'vans on site on the higher, flatter part close to the (very quiet) road. The Stellplatz takes 10, on a grassy meadow leading down to what would normally be a stream, but was currently a raging torrent almost over the banks. The incumbents described everyone else as having left as the level had risen about four feet overnight. The surface, though grass, was very solid underneath and we decided to stay, but eschewing the flatter spots next to the river found a (the only other?) solid flat spot in the middle of the meadow, slightly higher up. I stuck a stick in the river bank to keep a record of the height, but the forecast was for sun and a few showers, so we were hoping for the best. There'd obviously been torrential rain somewhere up the valley, but not locally.

The charge was €10 (up from €5) to be paid at the bakery in the village (or, if not possible, by cash into a coffer set into a large stone). Electricity was available by coin, though because the supply was very much in a corner a combination of a flat spot and electricity might be a challenge without a long lead. Water and disposal capability as well, in another corner - just don't expect "drive-up". Within 100 yards there was what was possibly the cleanest public toilet block I've ever seen (locked overnight). It's positioned there to support one of the local tourist attractions (the Draisinentour - see below) though it isn't immediately adjacent to that.

We liked it here. After lunch we did a 5 mile walk round the valley bottom, returning for dinner at the 'van, and then a further short walk in the other direction. Checking my stick indicated that the river had probably topped out.

The following day, a Monday, was Pfingst, another public holiday, and the start of some school holidays. It dawned bright and sunny, and the stick was now well above the water so we decided to stay. After a leisurely start, we did a 9 mile marked circular walk up in the hills, it remaining bright and sunny and giving us very good views. We returned to find ourselves alone, and had a BBQ and rest in the sun, before heading out for a further evening walk to the next village, Glanbrücken and back. This is not much over a mile away, and also has a Stellplatz tucked away quietly in a corner of the village, with three hard-standings, picnic tables and full facilities for €5 per night (water and electricity extra). It was empty, and whilst not quite as idyllic as Sankt Julian, this would easily pass our acceptability test, and would be a good fallback (it's closer to a supermarket as well).

Once again, serendipity had found us at a nice location, one that we would readily use again. The big tourist attraction, though, up in this quieter part of Glantal is the Draisinentour. It's a 20km length of disused railway line along the valley on which you can hire a variety of mainly pedal-driven trollies, to negotiate the full length. They come in various seating capacities, some have electric assistance, some have a "conference table" (quite fancied setting an afternoon tea out on one of those!) and you can hire for travel in alternate directions on alternate days (for obvious reasons). They look quite heavy, but you can lift them off the rails if you wish to stop for a bit. People using them seemed to be enjoying it in the bright sunshine. If we return, I really want a go on this!  

SanktJulian1 : Link to higher resolution image:
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SanktJulian2 : Link to higher resolution image:
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SanktJulian3 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/PxF34sr

[Robinhood]

Given our set day for return to the UK, it was once again time to move on. In avoiding our better-known spots, we decided that Remich, just over the Mosel in Luxembourg might provide us a decent one-nighter. That was until the current Mrs H started looking at the route on Google Maps and noticed much of the Mosel and Saar were emblazoned with the word "Floods". Further checking revealed that much of the French Moselle/German Mosel, along with the Saar had burst its banks, and towns were under water. Saarbrücken, through which we would pass, was reported to be under best part of 2m of water, and pictures of Zell/Mosel indicated that to use the Stellplatz there, you'd need a boat! A search for alternative destinations to Remich (the Stellplatz being adjacent to the Mosel) revealed there would be flooding and/or weather issues just about anywhere. After much more research, we found the Environmental website for Luxembourg which had a universal flood alert for all rivers in the country, except the Mosel (if you check the maps, the watercourses all enter the Mosel just upstream of the German border, so Germany gets all that). Armed with the official flood (no flood) information, we resurrected Remich as the destination.

As the bakery hadn't been open Sunday and (the holiday) Monday, we trotted off the short distance to the village to pay for our two nights, and buy bread and cakes. We were successful at the first, but the paucity of items meant we had to stop later in the day for the latter. 

A cloudy and ultimately (very) wet journey led us to Remich, and over a full (but not overflowing) Mosel to the Stellplatz. This is the other side of a main road from the river, has 26 good-sized flat hardstandings, cost €18 all-in, including electricity, water and disposal, and is an easy half-mile from the town centre. There were only 4 'vans there when we arrived (a few more arrived during the day) and with the entry and exit barriers both raised, I eventually paid at the recalcitrant parking ticket machine by card with some difficulty.

I think we would consider another stopover here in the future, but our impressions were somewhat clouded by the fact that it was (very) wet. In better weather it could be a decent place to wander round (though there wasn't much of great interest in the centre) and with public transport being free in Luxembourg, exploring further afield would be eminently possible. We explored with waterproofs and umbrellas before returning to the 'van, and then back in dryer conditions for a drink and meal at a central restaurant/bar. The latter was a mark up in price on Germany, but this was offset somewhat by filling up with cheap diesel as we left the next day.

Despite being between two roads, the night was largely quiet.  

Remich1 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/Wtv00Nw

Remich2 : Link to higher resolution image:
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[Robinhood]

With almost 300 miles back to the Channel, and three nights left, we decided a two-night stop was on the cards. We'd stayed at Mouzon, on the Meuse in France, before, and liked both the area and the aire. It wasn't far off the direct route back, and we also knew we could get close to the Channel in one hop from there, so the decision was fairly rapidly made.

We left relatively early in damp conditions, filled with cheap diesel, traversed below Luxembourg City and across Belgium, and arrived at Mouzon in sunshine and showers in time for lunch (which the Boulangerie just round the corner was happy to supply). 

The aire here is very nicely and quietly situated, behind the "Pompiers" at the Port de Plaisance, overlooking the Meuse. 9 or 10 emplacements on (slightly sloping) tarmac. Payment is at the adjacent "Capitainerie" which opens from 0800-10:00 and 18:00-20:00. The cost for 2 including tourist tax is €9.44 per night, which includes electricity, water, disposal and WiFi (ask for the password). Toilets and showers are available free during opening hours, and I believe there is also a washing machine! The staff (who vary by day) are very friendly (we got a wave from a passing car walking back in the evening).

It's a short walk into the centre, which has a couple of Boulangeries (the closest is a cracker), and a Supermarket (a Carrefour that has (re-)opened since our last visit) - there is another a longer walk away up on the main road).

There were 2 'vans there when we arrived, but there were fewer spaces by evening. After lunch, we had a wander round as it was still showery, through the Abbey gardens and up to the higher supermarket - the Carrefour is now probably a better bet. Dinner at the 'van, another stroll locally and then an evening sit on the riverbank reading in full, warm sunshine.

The next day was beautiful, so we (as we wanted) booked in for the second night. We'd walked an interesting marked route from here before, but, given the previous success with bike rehabilitation, cycling along the Meuse (the river and sometimes parallel canal) was the plan. Much of the Meuse has a cyclable bank, but from Mouzon it's only really practicable in one direction, towards Sedan. A round trip was around 25 miles, and it must have been one of the world's easiest bike routes! Tarmaced for 99% of the distance, traffic-free and virtually flat for about the same, we made it to the centre of Sedan fairly easily, found a place to have a (surprisingly cheap) good coffee, and then hit a patisserie for cakes to eat in an adjoining park (it being difficult to find the equivalent of Kaffe/Kuchen in Sedan), before returning to Mouzon. Many Storks along the way, including a family nesting on an artificial nest pole.

Dinner was back at the 'van after a good sit in the warm sunshine. Then another amble around before retiring for a quiet night. We really do find it very relaxing here.

There are always a few amusing things happen on our trips. Several occurred at Mouzon. 

Mrs H and I were talking outside our 'van when the guy from a campervan couple of pitches away wandered up and said "Are you English? Ah, I thought you were. Where am I?". He was a Scot, and the way he said it we thought it was a joke, but no, he had absolutely no idea where he was! Not to within several hundred miles - he wasn't even aware it was France. It transpired that his satnav had expired and his partner was no good with maps (and apparently neither was he). We showed him where he was, and advised him of the best route back towards the Channel (or Belgium, or Luxembourg, as he wasn't quite sure where he was going next - following battlefields). He was very grateful - "Nice here, isn't it?. We can only surmise that he had been driving along the main road, and passed the motorhome aire sign and decided to head into the town and stop.  

On our second day, an elderly (hark at me!) Swiss couple pulled in next to us in an old J5 van conversion. After a meal the male half walked over to the service area and proceeded to wash his dishes at the raised black waste disposal point (using the rinsing water tap). I didn't have the heart... (and it makes a change from vice versa). The fresh water tap(s) are adjacent to the pitches.

We'd taken the pitch next to the large service area, mainly because it meant a clear space on one side, and it was well removed and separated by a hedge. On the second morning, before we set off out, a new French Chausson (it was badged 2024 edition) arrived at the service point. Now, it must be France's easiest point to use - wide, square, easy of access and with a large sunken grate right in the middle. I kid you not, the driver took 23 goes to line up to dump grey waste. Forwards, backwards, diagonal, in, out - the waste outlet was at the rear of the 'van - one attempt would have been enough for most people, even first timers. We became more and more amused. Having finally achieved that, he then dumped the black waste, rinsed the cassette, and then attached his hose to the rinsing tap and filled the fresh water tank. 🥺 We thought we'd seen it all, but he then attached a spray gun to the hose, still on the rinsing tap, and washed down his 7m 'van. I joked to the current Mrs H that he'd have the he'd have the Shammy out next, and, sure enough......) As is the won't with such behaviour, once finished, off he went. No thought of staying or paying.

Mouzon1 : Link to higher resolution image:
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Mouzon2 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/KGmRvdF

Mouzon3 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/XpTQvVQ
 

[Robinhood]

And so, on to our last night.

In looking for somewhere "different" to stop on the way out, and discovering the new aire at Tournai, I also lit upon an alternative, which we decided to use on the way back. This was an aire at Cassel, less than an hour from the tunnel, and reasonably close to the supermarket at Wormhout that we tend to use both out and back.

The aire itself is new (though there may have been a rather more basic stop before). It is set below the hilltop town of Cassel, next to sports facilities, and within walking distance of the centre, though that is steeply uphill. It has 18 spaces on tarmac, is barriered and is €11.70 for 24 hours, plus €5 for electricity. Water, disposal and WiFi are included in the price. It also has a toilet and a shower, both "self-cleaning" in the French manner.

You can pay at a ticket machine at the entrance, or it is easily bookable at no extra cost online (which I did on our last night at Mouzon). All facilities and entrance/exit are controlled by QR code, either from the ticket, or from email if booked online. 

After visiting the Boulangerie, we set off from Mouzon and, travelling via Charleroi arrived at Cassel early in the afternoon. A word of warning, if you approach the aire via the obvious route up towards the town and then dropping off to the aire, you will endure some of the worst cobbles I've ever driven on. I wondered how much of the 'van (or my fillings) would survive. Much better to turn off the D916 somewhat further South, and then the D53 to the North of Ste-Marie-Capelle, turning right at the t-junction and then to the aire. (it's all quite obvious on Google maps, and a reasonable route for motorhomes - I know, we came out that way!).

This aire was a good find. It made a change, was comfortable, and, though the adjacent sports facilities were in use until early evening, very quiet overnight. There was one other 'van there when we arrived, and that increased to 4 by nightfall, so I'm not sure that booking was critical (though, as it didn't attract a premium, it was reassuring). Now that we've tested the non-cobble route, we shall probably use it again. 

As above, the walk up to Cassel is steep, but the town has enough of interest to occupy a day's stopover, and plenty of bars and restaurants, and a small supermarket within walking distance. Being high up, it has wide views from the old walls of all the surrounding plain. We had a wander around for the rest of the afternoon, then back to the 'van for dinner. Then, a slightly wider walk out and up to the town, in doing so, passing the local cemetery.

This contained, next to the road, (a significant number of) Commonwealth War Graves. We dropped in to have a look, and all the dates of death of the largely young contingent were the three or four days at the end of May 1940. It didn't take long to realise that this was "Dunkirk", and I was slightly emotional about that as my father was one of the last evacuees. I know from a surprising description of some heroics (a great story, but not one for here) that he was being bombed less than 10 miles away on those dates, and the "last stand" at Cassel may well have contributed to his safe return to England.

Being only an hour from the tunnel made for a relaxed start the next day, and we called in at the Supermarket at Wormhout to replenish the wine cellar. Arriving at a very quiet tunnel we were "bumped-up" an hour on departure time ("2 minutes to call") and went through all the processing without touching the sides. In fact, it was less than 25 minutes from first contact to being on the train (and that left 90 minutes, not sixty, earlier than our booked time).

It was, of course, Bank Holiday Saturday in the UK, and disembarking at the other end there were massive queues awaiting checking in for France, and the M20 had Operation Brock active, with at least 6 miles of multiple lanes of queuing lorries. The Dartford crossing, and even more so a crash low on the M11 ate up any advantage of our 90 minutes gain, but overall, not a bad journey back.

...and that is it, until September. We enjoyed this trip; it should be obvious that our destinations are set partly by a desire to visit given places, and partly by the availability of a promising looking aire/Stellplatz. Whilst the latter might seem somewhat odd, the fact that we explore on bike and foot, delight in the outdoors, and can generally find something of interest anywhere means that it works for us.

Cassel1 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/qMdyc5K

Cassel2 : Link to higher resolution image:
https://ibb.co/yfwMsqg

Edited June 9 by Robinhood

[laimeduck]

Robin - I always enjoy your travelogues so thank you.

Can I ask from where you get your info for the Aires? You seem to be able to find the new ones?

Jeremy

[Robinhood]

Well thank you, Jeremy. TBF it was a bit of a quick dump this time as we're off again (sans 'van) tomorrow.

I think you've asked me that question before, and there's no simple answer.

I've got Bordatlas (and the POIs from this - no longer available - and Campingcar-Infos on the Satnav), but increasingly research is done by picking an area, selecting a central town, and searching for "aire de campingcar near" or "Wohnmobilstellplatz near" that town in Google Maps. It often gives a selection in the area which can then be further checked. We've become pretty adept at selecting ones we've found acceptable. Some of this is done at home and mentally filed away, but we've generally got enough data (or increasingly WiFi) on holiday to make it viable.

I do tend to browse Promobil online on a regular basis, and their articles often reference large selections of locations in an area, and these also get "filed way". Good for Germany, but also to a lesser extent other countries.

[laimeduck]

Yes I believe I did Robin .... memory problem .... where am I? ...tee hee!

Still useful to hear it again. We too tend to look for places online when we can get WiFi - usually sites rather than Aires as we like to use the facilities and don't like "car parks".  We have however been using a few Camping Car Park which so far have been good. We try not to go to popular sites in ACSI (eg those with a pool or those near beaches!)  and are finding increasingly that smaller sites are leaving the ACSI fold due presumably to the charges that ACSI enforce? Having the small motorbike allows us to camp out and ride in to the towns/sights/attractions where public transport is not avaliable. 

Jeremy

[Robinhood]

Don't mind using the 'van facilities, and indeed, because we do was one of the reasons we moved back to a coachbuilt rather than the last PVC. (In reality for a slightly more commodious shower for sylph-like me 😉).

"Car parks" as such aren't really our thing, either. I think we look for overall "ambience", and from the pictures it should be obvious that those that are just a bit like car parks are definitely a better class of the same 😉*.

As above, we've got fairly good at judging in advance what is likely to suit us, and there's no doubting the flexibility that using aires/Stellplätze brings us. (For unknown destinations we've usually got a fallback option is it doesn't suit - we don't have to invoke these often).

*The nearest we got to full on "car park" on this trip was Tournai, and that was what we expected, and fine for its purpose with dedicated space and reasonably quiet.

[Thai Bry]

2 hours ago, Robinhood said:

Don't mind using the 'van facilities, and indeed, because we do was one of the reasons we moved back to a coachbuilt rather than the last PVC. (In reality for a slightly more commodious shower for sylph-like me 😉).

"Car parks" as such aren't really our thing, either. I think we look for overall "ambience", and from the pictures it should be obvious that those that are just a bit like car parks are definitely a better class of the same 😉*.

As above, we've got fairly good at judging in advance what is likely to suit us, and there's no doubting the flexibility that using aires/Stellplätze brings us. (For unknown destinations we've usually got a fallback option is it doesn't suit - we don't have to invoke these often).

*The nearest we got to full on "car park" on this trip was Tournai, and that was what we expected, and fine for its purpose with dedicated space and reasonably quiet.

Many thanks Robin for your travel blogs, which we've always enjoyed.

It also give us some ideas for other places to visit.