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Oil change


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Hi, in the handbook covering my a/s executive it states that oil can be syphoned out for an oil change. As my sump plug is rounded off and can not be removed maybe this would be easier than having the damaged plug extracted. Can anyone tell me how to syphon out the oil?

Regards, Allan.

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It's not so much a syphon as a pump.

You pump the oil out using either a hand powered or electrically powered oil syphon - you can buy these things at specialist motor factors (and maybe even at Halfords type places).


You put the tube down the oil dipstick hole, then pump the oil out from the sump.







It's never as good doing this as draining the old oil out via the sump plug, 'cos you'll never get all the old oil out. (Some sumps even have baffles in them to stop "sloshing" and you can only get a small proprtion of the sump oil out via pumping in those cases.

Better than not changing it of course, but it ain't the ideal way.


In the long run it really might be better to take your MH to a privately run garage (they often know many many more tricks than the spotty youth at the big Main Dealer brigade, and are usually miles cheaper too) and ask them to get the old sump plug loosened for you for a few quid - or removed, if you have a new one (and new washer) ready to take it's place.


There's also a couple of tricks that I've used in the past the get them loosened:


1. Hammer and cold chisel across diagonally - cuts into the head of the plug and then acts as a sort of impatc driver as you keep hitting it.....obviously make sure you are driving it in an anti-clockwise diection!


2. Use disc cutter to file down two sides of the rounded-off plug head, so you have two opposing flats that you can use big, heavy duty molegrips on.


3. Use oxy kit to heat up the nut - with repeated cold water quenching too if needs be..........obviously not a job for a DIY-er .


4. If ALL else fails, you can ask a decent motor engineer (only someone who really knows what they are doing!) to drill out the old plug and if needs be then weld & helicoil new threads.



It really would be the best long-term solution if you could get that old sump plug removed/replaced.


Check what torque you need to apply when tightening the new plug up against it's brass/copper "nip" washer - cos the washers are designed to be soft and to "squidge" to form a seal - the torque you need to apply is usually surprisingly little.

Most problems are caused by people overtightening them, or by re-using the washer time after time until they have to apply massive force to get a seal, then they wonder why the plug becomes incredibly difficult to remove months later.



Others may be also along shortly with some more/better ideas.






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had the same problem on my 1988 A/S Talisman, I managed to get a set of molegrips around the outside of the plug, and eventually it moved,

the problem (rounded off) had been caused by previous folk not using the correct square plug bit, I bought a nice new one,a new sump plug and 5 sump plug washers (need changing every time) all on E-Bay. The Sump plug is the same one used by Renault,Citroen etc.,so not that difficult to get a new one,provided you can get the old one out. By the way I had 'soggy back-end' syndrome as well, I used 'Mad' springs, and like you they have transformed the look and the handling,they are similar to Grayston but are in blue powder coat finish, I give mine a spray with WD40 every six months or so to keep the rust away.

I agree with most of the above,the 'suck it out' option is not very effective,

and not as satisfying as actually seeing ALL of the old oil flow out.

My old A/S took us up to the outer hebrides last year without missing a beat. Good Luck ! :D

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If the plug protrudes, use small stillsons rather than molegrips. Get a good grip and the plug will come out. Be carefull not to grip any thread or "boss" that may stick out. Once it's out you can weld a nut to the plug head. Don't weld in situ unless your fire insurance is good. :-)
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I had a similar problem with a Vauxhall Astra sump plug, I couldn,t stop it leaking. In the end I removed the sump, cut off the old pressed steel nut thingy and brazed on a propper steel nut and short bolt with a copper washer. Coat of paint etc.

It never played up again.


ALWAYS use a quality socket or a ring spanner. Never an open end spanner. Then your nuts won,t hurt!



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Be sure to buy a new sump plug copper washer before you try and get the plug out. It might even be worth buying a new plug as well.


Have you tried removing the plug with the engine oil hot - not very likely to help as two similar metals are involved but when grasping at straws any straw will do!


It might just prove easier to shift the bung and at least the oil will then run warmly and freely up your arm.


I only once ever tried a syphon or pump as an experiment and when I took the sump plug out to check about a pint of old oil remained to run down (or up depending on your point of view) my arm.


Still if all else fails mainly new oil in the sump is better than entirely old oil.

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