2003 radiator has started leaking.

[Brambles]

Hi,

I am most annoyed, my 2003 2.0JTD ducato radiator has started leaking at the ends of the cooling tubes...about 6 of them. It appears to have what looks like rubber seals to seal the tubes to the end tanks and they look a bit persished to me.

Has anyone else had to replace their radiator at 5 years old (32K miles)?The new radiator supplier seems to think 5 years is normal and is not surprised, but I am , and I have not read anthing on Forums about people replacing radiators as a common problem.

Jon.

 

 

 

 

[Basil]

Not much consollation I know but they are available new for £68 plus vat, postage free on

 

http://www.adrad.co.uk

 

that is assuming that you can pin it down as in the list for 2003 models there is no 2.0 JTD showing!

 

Bas

 

P.S. It's luck of the draw I have had a rad go in less time and miles than that and others that are still strong after 12years and 105000 miles.

 

 

[Philman]

My ducato was 7 years old when it sprung a major leak in the radiator going down a French Autoroute. I've always thought the weakest part the Ducato front end was its waterworks. Since the radiator failure I have also had to replace the water pump a couple of years later.

The heater also sprang a leak in Belgium but, although very difficult to get at, turned out to be an 'O' ring in the Control Valve assembly.

 

It is very prone to overheating on mountain roads or very long inclines.

 

Phil.

[Brambles]

Hi,

Thanks for replies Basil and Philman.

Adrad - that is where I got one, did better though, Adrad also sell on Ebay and they had a listing..£52 +£10 del. I emailed and phoned them to check part and is correct. Same as earlier models 790 wide can't remember deep etc. Only difference is the sensor hole needs a plug which they are supplying as part of radiator. ( I think they made a mistake with the price)

 

Over heating on hills I have heard about before and yet I have never had a problem. However I think some earlier models have a much smaller radiator. However I have been reading up about the Antifreeze and it is what they call an OAT one. (Organic acid Technology and it appears it may not be all it is cracked up to be and can affect rubber seals as as it has a plasticising effect. Totally confused now about which antifreeeze to use.

ANyway, wil also need to get some replacement jubilee clips as well and will find out next week how easy it is to replace.

Jon

[Basil]

Thats a good price Brambles thought that their web price was good! Not sure how difficult it is on yours but it is not that bad on ours (earlier 98 Boxer) just a case of unbolting the pressing that holds the bonnet catch and removing it and the rad slides up and out, after disconnecting the hoses and wires etc. Then you have to transfer the fan/s and the various switches and then slide it back in and rebolt up the pressing, not that bad a job. Have not changed ours but it was removed when we had the turbo and intercooler fitted so saw it done.

Regards the anti freeze, it does seem a bit of a minefield at the moment as to which one to use, one of my cars has had the recommended AF altered four times now!

 

Bas

[panagah]

There is deffinately a 2-0 jtd 2003 ducato or Im driving something different. Can't believe I have all this to look forward to.

[Basil]

panagah - 2008-02-11 5:30 PM

 

There is deffinately a 2-0 jtd 2003 ducato or Im driving something different. Can't believe I have all this to look forward to.

 

Don't doubt that panagah, just isn't listed in Adrads list.

 

Bas

[Brambles]

It seems to list the 2.0 petrol but not the JTD on te adrad site. However on teh radiatior suppliers to them site PMA site it does as a MK3 Ducato 2.0 TD.

http://www.pmagroup.co.uk/index.php?marque_name=FIAT%20LCV&model_name=DUCATO%20MK3

 

All designed to confuse us all.

[onecal]

Hi Jon,

You need to have a look at the rad', to ensure it is aluminum and not copper and brass type. This has a large bearing on what type of antifreeze you can use. Fiat recommend PARAFLU antifreeze and a change every 5 years or 150,000. I would error on the side of caution of 2.5 years.

As the van does little mileage and long standing, the long standing antifreeze may well attack your rubber rad' seals.

We have used Final charge antifreeze on some low mileage, long standing vehicles that had rad' problems with great success.

Be very careful and never mix antifreezes'

Ergards,

Brendan

[Brambles]

Thanks Brendan. Very interesting and useful what you have mentioned.

Jon.

[Basil]

Just to clear my confusion, why would antifreeze attack rubber rad seals and not the rubber hoses?

 

Bas

[Brambles]

Hi Basil,

Probably does, but has less effect as hoses are much thicker walled, and hoses do also fail sometimes. I think the problem from what I have been reading is the latest OAT antifreezes (organic acid technology) have a plasticing effect if in too large a concentration. Too low and they are not effective at anti corrosion.

Seems all antifreeze types have their problems. Some that are more tolerant have phosphates and sulphites that wear water pumps bearings and seals, phospate and Sulphite free ones like the OAT antifreezes are easily contaminated and must be mixed with distilled or deionised water.

Then there are environmental issues.

I am gleaming all this from searching websites but all seems a bit of a minefield. Seems best advice in above posts is to change every two to two and half years regardless.

Jon.

[Brambles]

OK, good Gentlefolk.

I have got the old radiator out. The tubes are not sealed with rubber at the ends. The rubber is a like an O ring and may just be to keep teh coling fins clear of the ends tacks - very diidiult to tell what purpose they really serve.

 

Anyway, for those who may attempt a sililar job on a 2002 on Ducato 2.0JTD here is a summary of how I got ot out.

Remove Grill. Easy just a few screws and lift up and out.

 

Remove nearside headlight to get access to rad hose at top. Two screws and a ball and clip at wing edge. ..just pull hard and twist a bit at same time eventually pops out. Disconnect wiring by pulling out grey clip and connector unplugs.

 

Disconnect both ends of air duct hose to air filter. Jubilee hose clips...easy.

 

Unbolt mounting plate for power steering reservoir and move back out the way. Managed to balance it on other hoses but ideally tie back as well.

 

Unbolt mount for fuse box and move back out the way, this needs tieing back to keep it out the way.

 

Unplug both fans and remove wiring loom from clips. Black clips are easy, teh white ones are a little difficult and need a small screwdriver pushed into te right place to realease them.... quite a fiddle. Fold loom back out the way in head light area.

 

Next I drained the system. Silly me could not dins a drain plug, but there is one on teh offside of radiator with screw driver slot. I removed teh bottom hose. What a job to undo teh one use hose cliips. I used srong snips in teh end after removing a retainling clip think with a screw drive and pliers. I am sure there is a simple technique, I just donlt know it.

 

Drain system into bowl for safe collection of coolant for proper disposal as not safe to release down drains.

 

Remove top hose in same manner and breatjer hose on offside top of radiator (left has you look at it).

 

Remove two top rubber bushed angle brackets. two bolts each, one to cross member one into rad.

 

on left (offside) remove two self tapper bolts securing shield plate (filler plate from rad to side of vehicle....leave plate in place.

 

There is a plate to be removed between cross member and top of radiator. The angle brackets hold it in place along with two plastic studs than need to be prized out.

 

Position bowl under hose connections and tip rad up to get rest of coolant out and lift clear of vehicle by removeing at an angle to clear bits and pieces.

 

Remove fans - 4 bolts each.

 

Collect everything together and go make a cup of coffee and think job well done and contemplate how you are going to get it all back together again.

 

It all sounds very complicated, but in actual fact is fairly straight forward. Hardest bit is disconnecting the hose clips, especially the bottom hose.

 

Tomorrow I shall go off and buy new hose clips and antifreeze and get it all back together.

 

The radiator from Advanced Radiators looks pretty good, It is not quite the same as original and has round tubes whereas original the tubes are flattenned into an oval shape. Also original has slightly more cooling fins so I imagine replacement is not quite as efficient but certainly looks the business.

 

I also noted the tubes on original are looking more corroded than the fins.

I have read, and the scientific amongst you will inderstand, the fins should be less noble (think that is the right way round) than the tubes, In other words a slightly different alloy that will act as a sacrificial anode to protect the tubes. A bit like the zinc block you attach to your steel hulls on boats to protect the steel from corroding, the zink corroding instead. Well my fins look fine and shiny but the rest of rad ( the tubes and end plates look awful) so to me something has gone wrong in the manufacture.

 

I have also found an interesting tip on how to check your antifreeze is affective stil for preventing corrosion. Use a volt meter. Stick on prope to teh chassis and the other into the coolant in reservoir. You should get a reading of between 0.2 and 0.5 volts if good. O.3volts being correct. Between 0.5 and 0.7 means you need to change or top up up antfreeze soon and above 0.7 means it is no longer effective. I have yet to confirm if this is correct info but am led to believe it is a more accurate way to check your antifreeze effectiveness.

 

There you go, lots of useless info for you all, and many thanks for responses above. I will let you know how I get on fitting replacemnet and bore you all to tears again.... and this post is so bloomin long I am not going to read through it for typos..sorry!

Jon.