Guest JudgeMental Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Going to Brugge for the weekend. Just tried to put fridge on gas but it does not seem to be working. Light comes on but no ignition sound. yes there is gas at hob and heating working fine. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel B Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Excuse me for doubting you Your Lordship, but have you turned the isolator valve off to the fridge perchance and not turned it back on? :-S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Mel B - 2008-02-14 4:37 PM Excuse me for doubting you Your Lordship, but have you turned the isolator valve off to the fridge perchance and not turned it back on? :-S Madam! I thought I had made myself abundantly clear! :-D Yes tap on. I looked in book and it said try turning control on and off a few times still nothing. light is on but if I turn supply of ignition does not start clicking.... so I guess its not working? I am at dealer tomorrow and its cold anyway will just have to keep the champagne and Chablis in the garage *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Just a thought M'Lord, try warming your gas bottles, bearing in mind that it is a very small holed jet feeding the fridge burner, so perhaps not enough pressure to push out what air may have got in while gas was turned off??? Why I mentioned this possible cure, my last 'van, a 'Cerokee L ' had a gas bottle locker heater for cold weather conditions, great help in freezing conditions.........even on propane gas....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Hi Is there a fuse? - handbook should have a wiring diagram - the light may well be on a different circuit - are there any other electrical widgets not working? Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I went through book and no mention of fuse - maybe its something to do with temperature - I will leave it for dealer to have a look... filled water tank day before yesterday and I thought it had to reach 0 deg for truma safety vale to dump water... apparently not as it dumped all the tank yesterday and to day even though temp (London) was 4 deg. on checking book today it says 4 deg and below. also silly moi had left pump on so when I went out yesterday tank was completely dumped and pump still running *-) have I damaged pump? as it still seems to be working OK.... its a while since I winter camped! will try and remember to switch pump of Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan k Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Think Truma dumps at 5C, hence can be a bit of a pain. Unlikely to have damaged pump, tolerances not very fine and no load on motor so probably ok alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 If the igniter on the fridge isn't working, the most likely cause is a lack of 12V to the igniter. Have you somehow isolated the 12V supply from the leisure battery? Don't know if your Euramobil has an Elektroblock or similar charger unit, but these do have a fused outlet for the fridge. In fact, if the fridge has a light in it, I think there may be three fuses, one for the 12V cooling supply, one for the light and (I think) another for the igniter circuit. However, it all depends on which version of the fridge is fitted, and how Euramobil installs the electrics. There is sometimes also a master switch on the Elektroblock units that isolates the leisure supply and leaves only the charger circuits working. From memory, this over-rides the remote control isolator on the control panel (above the habitation door?). If this is off, pretty much all the 12V will also be off, and will stay that way until it is turned back on.It may be worth checking if any other 12V facilities aren't working, to see if that gives you any clues. If the leisure battery has gone "flat" you may have a safety cut off on the 12V that activates somewhere around 11.5V and shuts off all 12V supplies to prevent the battery being totally flattened. The water pump will have been taking juice while it ran the tank dry, so might this have pulled the battery into the danger zone? If not presently connected to mains, do so a.s.a.p, and then check whether the fridge fires in the morning.Hope you've also checked the heating! Whatever, have a good trip! Oh, and stick a clothes peg on the Truma dump valve to stop it activating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterjl Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Hi I would disagree with the clothes peg idea to stop water dunping - it works but carries a risk. I switch on the heating but turn the temp down to lowest - this gives frost protection and whilst heater is "on" the water is not dumped even if temp drops below 5c! That works for me - haven't lost water in last two years since i've had this van/system. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Mmm....Elektroblock sounds familiar, sure I saw that written somewhere *-) But books back in van now as on 6 am eurotunnel....... lights are working and van charged as it has been on mains for a few days and panel shows all batteries full will get to the bottom of this tomorrow at dealers and report back. First van with Truma as last 2 had ALDE and it is noisy with poor controls and a pain in the a*se :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homerbut Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 SILLY IDEA TO JAM THE DUMP VALVE WITH A PEG,WATER DUMP IS THERE TO PROTECT YOUR EXSPENSIVE BOILER FROM FROST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 "filled water tank day before yesterday and I thought it had to reach 0 deg for truma safety vale to dump water... apparently not as it dumped all the tank yesterday and to day even though temp (London) was 4 deg. on checking book today it says 4 deg and below. also silly moi had left pump on so when I went out yesterday tank was completely dumped and pump still running " You are in good company m,lord. I answered a readers letter yesterday who did exactly the same until battery was flat. On a Rapido. I suppose I could summarise my advice as "Wake up" C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 peterjl - 2008-02-14 8:17 PM Hi I would disagree with the clothes peg idea to stop water dunping - it works but carries a risk. I switch on the heating but turn the temp down to lowest - this gives frost protection and whilst heater is "on" the water is not dumped even if temp drops below 5c! That works for me - haven't lost water in last two years since i've had this van/system. Peter homerbut - 2008-02-15 11:05 AM SILLY IDEA TO JAM THE DUMP VALVE WITH A PEG,WATER DUMP IS THERE TO PROTECT YOUR EXSPENSIVE BOILER FROM FROST. Sorry, didn't make myself clear! Putting a peg on the Truma valve is fine provided the heating, or water heating, is on. In either event it is extremely unlikely the water content of a Truma Combi could freeze, even if the temperature in the vicinity of the dump valve was below freezing. Even with the Truma full and the heating/water heating off, it remains unlikely the water in the Truma would freeze at the temperatures experienced in the London area (where Eddie lives) so far this winter. Even then, ambient temperatures would need to fall well below 0C for several hours to get to the Truma water jacket. I should have made clearer that I was commenting to Eddie and not as general advice. The dump valves tend to be installed in slightly more exposed positions than the heater, are of smaller mass so cool quicker, and trip at 4C, but will not reset below 8C. They will generally trip well before there is any risk to the water jacket, although pegging them is a matter for judgement and forecast temperatures should be carefully monitored.I'm intrigued Eddie is finding his Truma noisy. I have always been amazed at how quiet ours is. True, it can be heard as it gets into its stride, but after it gets the temperature up to its set point the fan backs off and, with the reduced airflow, is barely audible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Well there was nothing wrong all along 8-) I turned of gas and it took about 5 minutes for ignition to start clicking. so it takes longer then I thought to starve fridge of gas...... I just thought it was not working as no initial clicking on starting it and it has been layed up all winter.....maybe the cold temperature was something to do with it *-) it was absolutely freezing in Brugge at the weekend. we stayed on Aire which has electric hook up so ran heating (6002 EH) on electric most of the time with occasional gas boost! God it is an awful system! :-D Mrs Mental complaining that it was to hot or to cold. with ALDE you set at 22 deg or whatever and thats it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakaleg Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 We used to have a problem with the igniter in our last van, but i found (by chance) that if I ran the fridge on 12 volt (for around 30 minuets) the igniter worked everytime, until i didn't use the van for a few weeks again. it must have warmed the circuit or something like that. only happened in the winter months. regards pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardoakley Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Hi (lol) If the vehicle has been driven and the fridge has been on 12Volts the a change to gas takes a while - it's somthing to do with garage forecourt safety! regards Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Richard: What you describe applies only to 'smart' fridges (like Dometic AES models) where selection of gas, 12V or 230V is carried out automatically by the fridge. There's no safety-delay on ordinary fridges and, as far as I'm aware, a fridge gas-igniter should begin to fire as soon as gas-operation is selected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 JudgeMental - 2008-02-18 10:30 AM Well there was nothing wrong all along 8-) I turned of gas and it took about 5 minutes for ignition to start clicking. so it takes longer then I thought to starve fridge of gas...... I just thought it was not working as no initial clicking on starting it and it has been layed up all winter.....maybe the cold temperature was something to do with it *-) it was absolutely freezing in Brugge at the weekend. we stayed on Aire which has electric hook up so ran heating (6002 EH) on electric most of the time with occasional gas boost! God it is an awful system! :-D Mrs Mental complaining that it was to hot or to cold. with ALDE you set at 22 deg or whatever and thats it! EddieGlad about the fridge. On the heater, give it a chance. Unless yours is defective, my experience of the Trumas is that they are quiet and surprisingly efficient. There is a thermostat, although it is more like a fridge stat, in that it is merely numbered rather than having actual degrees C marked on it. Unfortunately this means that you have to experiment a bit to find which setting gives you comfort, and then only make subsequent adjustments in half increments. Once the correct setting is found, leave it there. When the heater first starts up it runs very quietly for several minutes, while it "sniffs the air". Once it "knows" what it has to do it will begin to up the power, and the fan speed, and will quite quickly bring the van up to temp. During this time it will produce a rather comforting woosh of hot air! It will then back off power and fan speed, and drop to a virtual tickover, at which point it will become virtually inaudible with very slight warm air discharge from the ducts. If the temperature then dips again it will increase power and if it rises, say as the van is warmed by the sun (if any!), it will shut right down. However, the control circuit is quite heavily "damped", presumably to prevent it responding every time you open the door, so all responses are relatively slow and measured, rather than instantaneous. If it doesn't do more or less as I'm saying above, you just may have a duff heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Hi Brian thanks for your interest but I am sure heater is fine just not as user friendly as what I have been used to for last 6 years. I went for the 6002 EH upgrade from standard gas only heater and I am glad I did this as on electric only it is nice and quiet. i appreciate what you say and initial jet taking of soon dissipates but I simply dontt like the heat, the controls are much about it. I prefer wet water central heating as it is more comfortable and controllable maybe I will get the hang of it but retirement van will hopefully have ALDE *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.