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VW T4 leaking window


Stuwsmith

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Does anyone have any experience of removing factory fitted sliding windows on a T4? These windows appear to be held to the body by 10 nuts on the inside. One of these windows has developed a leak on my campervan which I think is due to water finding its way around the seal between van body and window frame. I have tried tightening these nuts a little bit but this hasn't cured the problem. I would feel more confident undoing the 10 nuts and taking the window out if I knew someone out there had done so with no ill effects!

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Hi

You say its a factory fit are you sure? There should be no problems removing it but before you do remove it make sure the leek is from the window seal. Post the model/year and chassis No I will be able to then be able to advise you further.

Regards,

Brendan.

 

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Hi,

Just did a little checking. Can you please confirm if the window is a factory fit. Any good motor factor will supply you with a transparent sealant which will stop a leak from an outer seal without removing the unit.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Brendan.

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Thanks for replying Brendan. I can confirm the window is factory fitted as the converter (Bilbo's) used the vw window van (two sliding windows behind the passenger/driver seats and two fixed at the rear. What I don't know is whether the converter removed these windows to fit the "grey fuzzy" lining to the interior. This lining goes right up to the edge of the window and makes it difficult to tell exactly where the leak is coming from, especially as the water is coming from immediately below the "draft seal" between the sliding and non sliding window. I don't really want to start pulling this away in case I can't get back properly.I have tried pushing some vaseline under the seal on the outside of the van between seal and body of van but still getting leak. Will check on sealant but think that unless it is very thin and can be applied with a syringe or such like I might have difficulty getting it under the seal.
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Hi Stuart,

Some of the old VW Sliding windows gave a lot of bother esp' at the draught seal. This seal sits between the stationary glass and moving glass.

Sometimes the bottom of the seal can get damaged when converters remove the frame to fit linings.Look at the other window to see is the bottom of the draught seal the same. If it looks like a little piece is missing on the one that is leaking I can give you a way out. Have a look first. Can you also look at the glass and see what marking is on it. (Three types)

The sealant does come in syringe form, used on the old mini's minor's etc'

All bonded glass now but I will check Frosts catalogue for you tomorrow.

I think you may be on the right track with the draught seal. If it is we will solve it .

Regards,

Brendan

 

 

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Thanks for your continued interest in my minor but irritating leaking problem! My van is 6 years old and the window glass has the following on it.

Sekurit  43R-001105  DOT57 M 20 AS2    Tinted

I have checked the window on the other side. This is in the sliding door, does not have any of the grey fuzzy lining round so will definitely not have been removed by Bilbos. It doesnt leak either! Without the lining it is much easier to see the bottom of the glass at the point that it meets the body and seal. The seal between frame and glass appears to be actually stuck to the glass about 3mm above the body line. This thin rubber edge is  sealed to the fixed glass, runs accross the bottom of the vertical draught seal then continues along the bottom of the black plastic strip with the holes in for the sliding window catch. Although difficult to see, on the leaking window this thin edge looks like it could well be damaged just beyond the draught seal, on the fixed glass. I have tried to move the lining to get a better view but think the material must have been tucked down behind the window. Do you think I could just loosen the window nuts and ease the bottom out to get a better look or is this likely to create more leaks? 

Thanks, Stuart

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Hi Stuart,

Yes open the nuts out a little and I will try and get you the name of the sealent over the next few days. I am away at the moment. This is a clear liquid and needs to be used sparingly.Dont over tighten the nuts as a seal may be missing or damaged on conversion. Well done Stuart, now its just to seal it up like the one over on the sliding door.

I will get back to you as soon as possible as to what sealant is available on the market at the moment.

VW use there own sealant and I dont think it is available in small quantities. Quicks of Oldbury 021 511 1122 may be able to help if you speak nice to the storeman.

Regards,

Brendan.

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Had another look at my windows Brendan, in better light this time and noticed that the non leaking window in the sliding door has developed a small crack in the seal at the bottom of the window. This crack is at the point where the vertical plastic draught seal meets the bottom of the window assembly. The thin "stuckdown" part of the seal that runs along the bottom of the window and over the bottom bit of the draught seal has cracked. Looks like slight movement of the draught seal has caused this. (Could this be a Teutonic design fault? surely not!!) Although I can't see, because of the lining material, I think this may well have occured on the leaking window and water is being wicked up by the lining material. I will loosen the window as you suggest when I have hold of some suitable sealant either from Quicks as you suggest (not far from home) or from a site I have just found on the internet, Caswell europe  that sells Permatex flowable silicone windscreen and glass sealer. Suggested applications include RV vents and windows so should do the trick!

Regards, Stuart

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Hi Stuart,

Glad you found the source of your leak. The sealants should help. Yes the small piece at the bottom did a little bother on some of the old windows.

When using the sealant put a strip of masking tape along the top edge of the seal on the glass. When the sealant has cured you can take it off the glass leaving a nice clean edge. Dont forget to wear gloves (non Latex).

Other good sealants are brands 422, 5614, and 926Silaflex.

Regards,

Brendan.

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