Jump to content

WaxOyl treatment


Recommended Posts

Buy a gallon or two and put the can in a bucket of hot water and use a pump up pressure sprayer and spray away but keep the water hot and you will have no problems and if you dont do that get your local garage to use their air sprayer and I think should cost no more than 25 ish quid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Tracker

Depends how long you intend to keep the van.


Modern vans are much better at resisting rust than the vans of the eighties and before and there are plenty of 10 year old and older vans with no rust patches at all.


I doubt it will add anything to the van's value when trade in time comes but it might help sell it to a private buyer?


If you do it yourself it is very messy and the best sprayer to use might well be the one that Waxoyl sell specifically for the job.


As mentioned keep the Waxoyl as warm as you can get it as it flows much better when hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a DIY job for sure, you will need around 2 gallons and something to spray it on with, to get into the box sections, use a hose around 18 inches long, blocked off at the end and with a few small holes running down the sides place in to the box section and spray away, don,t forget lots of old blankets etc to protect the driveway, I think you can use parafin to thin the waxoil and get it into all those hard to get places.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a great believer in Waxoyl but it is not an underseal and will be blasted off external surfaces exposed to road dirt and water etc. It is good in enclosed spaces, inside doors, chassis structures and cills etc. Even with the Waxoyl pump, sprayer and heated waxoyl it is difficult to get the stuff fluid enough to do your self.

I had my Autocruise undersealed and waxoyled for £200 (lol) .

It gives me confidence after losing 2 Ford Transits to rust after only 10 years on the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear Tomo,

I'm not very sure where the price is comming from at all unless you've got a motorhome with a standard box/ladder chassis as from the Fait/Ford/etc manufacturer.

A home kit would probably be under £100 with hand pump.

If its got an Alko chassis this doesn't need anything on it at all due to the amount of galvanising its had done. I've a 16 year old Kontiki and as far as I can see its "OVER GALVANISED", ie, its handing off in drips at places. If you can get an ALKO brochure the emphisise the pounds/kilograms of Galvanise material they spray on the steel frame.

But however I have greased the brake pipes and linkages.

As too WaxOyling the front van chassis will require being done though.

I think theres a bit in the forum somewhere about someones front cross member rusting through though.

Good Luck,



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tomo,

I have fitted front and rear mud flaps to keep the worst of the muck being thrown up underneath and into the rear light clusters, they make a huge difference and keep the side of the camper a lot cleaner. I have injected the vulnerable areas underneath but have not coated the chassis members as I prefer to keep an eye on them. If you coat them it is possible to get water trapped between the coating and what you are trying to protect making matters worse. I use spray underseal to protect the vulnerable areas that are not easy to get at.

I think the most vulnerable area is in the engine bay I have carried out my own cure to the Fiat engine irrigation system and keep ALL the water out.I have sent info to MMM they are going to print it in a future issue.

Because I live near the sea I spray the engine and the areas around the engine bay and all electrical connections in duck oil it leaves a coating and lasts for a year.

Because water is trapped between the windscreen scuttle and the front bulkhead I am of the opinion that corrosion around this area could be a problem, After removing the scuttle to fit extra drains, before sealing the scuttle to the windscreen, I coated the area in duck oil and relubricated the wiper bearings as they were corroding due to water ingress. if you want photos and info on my cure then send me a Pm with your e-mail and I will forward them to you.

Regards Geoff

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...