Tenterden Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Fridge RM 6361(L) fitted to 03 Auto-Trail Tacker.Fridge works fine on mains, 12v and gas but the igniter fails to cancel once ignition has taken place and continues to click and flash until I pull the igniter fuse.I would like to find the cause of this fault because I now have to replace the fuse in order to use the water heater as this is on the same circuit(as are the cooker igniters).Any help out there please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docted Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Sounds like a loose wire at the igniter from the thermocouple. Should be accessible from the bottom fridge vent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenterden Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 Thanks for getting back to me "docted".Have had a good look at connections and still no joy.Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Itexuk Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 could be the relay that has gone or is stuck. Take the bottom vent off and you should see a little black or grey box with relay on it. Give it a light tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 You might try disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the igniter-assembly where it's attached to the gas-burner. I had this problem on my Herald's fridge and this procedure fixed it. Can't tell you what was causing the fault in my case (poor earth?), or why doing this cured it. Nevertheless, it did. Could have been magic for all I know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenterden Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 Thanks for your help and thanks to everyone else.Still no joy-have cleaned,tapped,prodded but nothing has cured it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docted Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 As all else is ok I would try a new thermocouple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 If it was the Thermocouple the gas would not stay lit. I believe from what has been said it just continues to spark. This fault lies with the electronic control for the ignition. It could be the spark plug bit, which has now been cleaned or the electronic module itself has failed. (but do check your flame is burning neatly) I think it is fitted on the top of the fridge behind the the thermostat. If you have a hob above, it is often easier to remove the hob for access than removing the fridge, all depends on the layout but is not a job for the faint hearted to get access. Thinking about it, I would check out the burner jet next just in case your flame is not right. ( Easier to eliminate that next than having to get access to the igniter circuit). If the flame stays lit, the thermo couple is fine - it has no effect on the ignition circuit. Just to explain, the ignition circuit detects the flame is lit from the spark electode, and if flame goes out, say due to wind, it sparks to reignite. Eventually if it fails to reignite the thermocouple cools down and the gas is shut of at the valve control. The igniter continues to spark even so, as it gives a warning both by sound (not very load admittedly) and the neon light flashing). What I am mentioning is re the fridge model mentioned. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenterden Posted May 17, 2008 Author Share Posted May 17, 2008 Thanks Jon - flame is good,steady and blue.What I would think is the ignition box is attached to back of fridge -a box with a 3 wire connector (blue,red and black) and a single spark lead which goes to the burner assembly.Is it possible to test this unit?Does it cost an arm and a leg to replace?Do you know of a good place on the net for spares? Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 Hi Terry, Unforntuately I do not have a circuit diagram for the module, so cannot advice on how to test. The 3 connectios are Positive, Negative and the lead to the Neon light on the control panel. You coudl try taking it apart and seeing if there is any obvious signs of damage. It is beginning to look like it needs repacing. As I said, normally as soon as the flame lights the sparling stops, even when the thermostat knob is pressed in. As a temp fix you could wire in a switch to the positive of this module to disconnect it once fridge is lit rather than pulling the fuse. I Think the part number is (Dometic) IG10227. http://www.leisurespares.co.uk shoud be able to supply. http://www.4electrolux.co.uk/cgi-bin/search.pl?parts_search=s&model=rm+6361&part= is another source and you do not really want to know how much.... about £70. I am a bit hesitant to say 100% that will be the fault just in case it is not, but am pretty certain in appears to be. £70 , rediculous price and if it has failed I would certainly take up with supplying dealer as I would have expected a life of at least 8 years, definetely 5 and the sale of good act protects you as this part has obviously had a fault from new to have failed prematurely. I am going to see if I can find a circuit diagram for the module, but might not be easy. There is also still as slight possibility a fault could still lie with the spark electrode...maybe the insulation is slightly burned and causing some resistance to GND, but I think this is more likely to stop it sparking at all. Hope this is of some assiatnce to you. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenterden Posted May 19, 2008 Author Share Posted May 19, 2008 Hi Jon and thanks for your thoughts.Having tried everything,it still seems to come down to the igniter and its a pity that a new one is so expensive. Shall try to track down someone who can test the old one for me and I can unplug the supply to igniter once the gas is lit so that I can still use the water heater and cooker igniters.At least we can still get away! Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 Hi, Clean all earths and disconnect battery and connection plug to igniter module and sensor and clean connections. Spray the connections with switch cleaner. Then connect and disconnect the connection plugs a few times. Connect up your battery. This should stop your igniter from sparking all the time. Regards, Brendan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenterden Posted May 21, 2008 Author Share Posted May 21, 2008 Hi Brendan, Thanks for your helpful suggestions but still no joy.Will manage for the moment as at least we can still use the van as it is.Who knows, it might even start working again!! Terry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Hi, If you have checked all your connections now check the resistance of the spark electrode when Cold. Then check the resistance when Hot. Cold should give you High Resistance Hot should give you Low Resistance If there is not a good difference between them, Replace the spark electrode, Regards, Brendan. Always make sure to isolate the gas supply before working on the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 when on gas and the piezo ignition sequence stops. does the little green indicator light keep flashing? as mine is - and so long since i used the van I can remember if this is correct.... *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Hi Terry, Been having a think about this and checking where the black box is etc - darn, cannot get it out as above the vent position. Anyway, what you might have is a corroded connection to the spark electrode, probably at the electrode end giving high resistance or even a break. When it sparks no problem as it will jump the break, but the detection of the flame will not work. So might be worth while checking, if you can, the electode is joined to the wire properly under the insulation, or if you can get to the other end of the lead check with a meter. Another possibilty is the burmer assembly is not connected to earth properly and has high resistance. That is easy to check by lighting the flame and then use a wire to temporarily connect the burner assembly to ground (back plate of the fridge will do) and see if sparking stops. Use a insulated wire and keep fingers from touch the metal bits just in case. (Preferrably just use an insulated screwdriver, poke it hard againstthe back plate and ten touch shaft of screwdriver to burmer assembly. It may be the burner tube and gas pipe have high resistance to GND, or indeed the main GND connection to fridge casing is not good. If none of the above cures the fault it is almost certainly within the module. Judge, Ih this model there is a single wire electrode and works either by the the electronic module detecting a chargel voltage generated by the flame contacting the spark electrode, or by the conduction of the flame. No green light - think it is an orange neon lamp and it flashes along with the spark and is positioned where a manual ignitor fits. There are no other lights. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Thanks Jon, cracked it.... it was not on, bleed more gas through and it finally ignited and light stays on steady. sorry, did not mean to disrupt thread but away tomorrow and a bit worried as I have to carry insulin *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Sorry Judge, I got confused, thought you were suggesting problems with teneterden's fridge - I see now you had an issue with yours --- glad you solved - It can take a while for the air to bleed out of a pipe also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 In this instance Jon you are forgiven, I am not normally so understanding..... But you have missed a good old fashioned neck stretching by a hairs breath..... simply because I have not the time to formally sentence you. As the Mental's are away tonight to Francais dont you know - for a well needed break :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 LOL, Have a good trip Judge and have fun. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenterden Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Hi Brendan and Jon, I shall try all suggestions,but my difficulty is access through the lower vent so it will either be a fridge out job or(hopefully)I might be able to work better with the fridge out just a few inches.At the moment,I can't remove the wind cowling around the burner which means I can't get to the igniter electrode to check continuity back to the igniter unit-and this also applies to grounding the burner assembly to check resistance. All this,and we are off on our travels in a few days and I don't want to risk losing what I have at the moment because at least the fridge works after a fashion and I can live with that until I have more time to take a deep breath and sort the problem. Thanks for your help, Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 Hi Terry, Yes fridge workings can be a pig to get to. However bear in mind the burner cover just needs the left screw at rear of cover removed and the one at the front of the left cover (main back panel of fridge) loosened. You then wiggle the left cover off. The main box like cover swivels out and unhooks from a plate on the right which in most cases you cannot see. This note may or may not help you, dending on your vent positions. As you say best left till you are not pressured into rushing it before leaving for a trip but removing fridge on some vans is a big job as they may be sealed in with silicon - takes a while to slice it all and reseal afterwards the 1st time you do it. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minstrel Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 We've had problems with our fridge and had to move it to get at a fuse (10amp) that isn't on the electrical diagram! We found that the easiest way to move it was for one person (me) to open the freezer compartment and lift while the my husband pushed a bit from the outside and to put it back a similar manouevre. Like you we can use the fridge but we can't use it when the vehicle motor is on as it blows the hidden 10amp fuse, which incidentally has now been moved so that Chris can get at it without removing the fridge again. We aren't going to try to resolve the problem until we return from France. Good luck with the repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbel Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I read your thread with interest as my own fridge has developed the exact same problem. Did you manage to cure the problem? Most grateful for any help you can provide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebishbus Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Hi. If the igniter keeps sparking and the lamp flashing when the gas has lit , it can be that the spark plug tip is not in the correct position, it should be in the hottest part of the flame. Our RM4401 spark plug tip is not straight,but bent at right angles to the shaft Logically you would think that the tip should point down to the jet to ignite the gas there, but that is the coolest part of the flame. In that position our igniter keeps sparking and the lamp flashing. Turn the tip up so that it is close to the tip of the thermocouple ( the hottest part of the flame ) and it works correctly . In that position it sparks to the tip of the thermocouple , ignites the gas immediately and after a few seconds the igniter stops sparking and the lamp goes out Brian B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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