tonyg3nwl Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 The electric slide out step on our van has decided to stick partway in or out , and not always at the same extension point. it was doing this before the van was serviced, and he dismantled it, and cleaned out the rubbish, stones etc, and lubricated it before re assembly. It was ok for a while, but the fault has re occurred.. as a temporary solution, we will now carry our old 2 step device from caravan days, is this a common problem grit or small stones getting in, or a wear problem, the van is 2009 vintage, ? Any suggestions? tonyg3nwl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAJay Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 In 12 years of owning our van. We never had any problems with our omnistor step. Does yours go in when you start the engine? It did on our Swift Maybe a loose wire ? PJay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randonneur Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Ours has been a pain in the backside for the last 6 months but after spraying with silicone spray numerous times and taking out the fuse and putting pack about 4 times it seems to be working ok. Hope I haven't spoke too soon. We always take our old caravan step with us anyway as the motorhome step is too high and we are always wary of the weight that is put on the 'electric' step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 We had a (swift produced) Starfire which did the same. Its abut 4 years ago now and I did all the lubricating bit but the real problem was with the Sargant control box. It had a fusiblle crystalline link which stopped passing current when overloaded and then reset but seemingly at a lower level . Our vehicle had a batch where they were set to low, Sargent supplied an uprated one and all was well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwsm2000 Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 If the mechanism is stiff, it may be taking too much current and tripping the resettable fuse. If it does, you should try waiting a minute or two to allow the fuse to cool down before trying again. If it has been wired to retract when you start the engine, it should get its power from the alternator D+ signal (could be the same as fridge feed), so you might see a difference if you switch off the fridge!!!. There is also a cut off switch in the step that drives a relay if the step is still out when you switch on the engine. This relay switches the D+ feed to the step motor until the step is almost fully retracted. There should also be a 2200uF capacitor across the relay coil to hold the relay closed for a fraction of a second longer (after the switch opens) to ensure it gets fully retracted. If any of these parts or their wiring is faulty, you will get problems. The step takes a few amps to open and close and this current passes through the control switch. If the switch has poor/dirty contacts it will limit the current to the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 plwsm2000 - 2018-10-08 8:13 PM ..........If it has been wired to retract when you start the engine, it should get its power from the alternator D+ signal (could be the same as fridge feed), so you might see a difference if you switch off the fridge!!!. There is also a cut off switch in the step that drives a relay if the step is still out when you switch on the engine. This relay switches the D+ feed to the step motor until the step is almost fully retracted.......... I am sorry Phil, but the above is not correct. The relay is operated by the alternator D+ signal, and switches a battery +ve to the step to retract it. The -ve side of the relay coil is connected to earth (-ve) via the limit switch. As you have stated, the capacitor in parallel with the relay coil ensures that the step is fully retracted. The battery +ve connected via the relay NO contact, may be taken from either the starter battery, or the habitation battery. I prefer to use the habitation battery for the normal and automatic operation of the step. This avoids any confusion when isolating the step for maintenance. (Pull the step fuse, and its isolated.) Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Alanb - 2018-10-08 9:11 PM As you have stated, the capacitor in parallel with the relay coil This avoids any confusion when isolating the step for maintenance. (Pull the step fuse, and its isolated.) Alan ALWAYS, always pull the fuse to make sure no power is present when disassembling the step...... the motor is very powerful and could slice off all of your fingers in a second. I know this because i stripped and repaired mine onsite, after a Large Milenco level shot backwards and damaged mine. Took me a couple of hours but it straightened out almost perfectly and has worked fine ever since. I noticed when testing it off of the van, just how strong the scissor action was ,when driven by the motor. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyg3nwl Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 I am more suspicious that the problem is stones or dirt in the mechnism than an electrical problem. This is becaue it goes partially i9n either direction, and if I wiggle about when it stops, it can be persuaded to c0mplete the movement. Thanks for comments. I will check the other suggestions as well Tonyg3nwl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjsbc Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Interesting wondered why my step on pressing button extends about half way hit it again maybe 3/4 third time fully extended it is though a little bit random,resettable fuse?retracts fully on engine start always done it (no obstruction in mechanism) Swift Kontiki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwsm2000 Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Alanb - 2018-10-08 9:11 PM plwsm2000 - 2018-10-08 8:13 PM ..........If it has been wired to retract when you start the engine, it should get its power from the alternator D+ signal (could be the same as fridge feed), so you might see a difference if you switch off the fridge!!!. There is also a cut off switch in the step that drives a relay if the step is still out when you switch on the engine. This relay switches the D+ feed to the step motor until the step is almost fully retracted.......... I am sorry Phil, but the above is not correct. The relay is operated by the alternator D+ signal, and switches a battery +ve to the step to retract it. The -ve side of the relay coil is connected to earth (-ve) via the limit switch. As you have stated, the capacitor in parallel with the relay coil ensures that the step is fully retracted. The battery +ve connected via the relay NO contact, may be taken from either the starter battery, or the habitation battery. I prefer to use the habitation battery for the normal and automatic operation of the step. This avoids any confusion when isolating the step for maintenance. (Pull the step fuse, and its isolated.) Alan Alan. I don't have the same van so the wiring may be different. The way I explained it is how my van is wired (from the fridge feed). The Thule wiring diagram shows the feed coming from the "Acc" line on ignition switch. Personally I prefer the way my van is wired (manual control from leisure battery and auto retract from starter battery) as the step can be retracted even if the leisure battery goes flat. I agree it is more confusing though. Tony. I think you are correct to say that the step is getting stuck due to some mechanical problem, but the theory is that this will cause excessive current. The power supply then becomes a factor, but it is not the route cause. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 plwsm2000 - 2018-10-08 10:22 PM Alanb - 2018-10-08 9:11 PM plwsm2000 - 2018-10-08 8:13 PM ..........If it has been wired to retract when you start the engine, it should get its power from the alternator D+ signal (could be the same as fridge feed), so you might see a difference if you switch off the fridge!!!. There is also a cut off switch in the step that drives a relay if the step is still out when you switch on the engine. This relay switches the D+ feed to the step motor until the step is almost fully retracted.......... I am sorry Phil, but the above is not correct. The relay is operated by the alternator D+ signal, and switches a battery +ve to the step to retract it. The -ve side of the relay coil is connected to earth (-ve) via the limit switch. As you have stated, the capacitor in parallel with the relay coil ensures that the step is fully retracted. The battery +ve connected via the relay NO contact, may be taken from either the starter battery, or the habitation battery. I prefer to use the habitation battery for the normal and automatic operation of the step. This avoids any confusion when isolating the step for maintenance. (Pull the step fuse, and its isolated.) Alan Alan. I don't have the same van so the wiring may be different. The way I explained it is how my van is wired (from the fridge feed). The Thule wiring diagram shows the feed coming from the "Acc" line on ignition switch. Personally I prefer the way my van is wired (manual control from leisure battery and auto retract from starter battery) as the step can be retracted even if the leisure battery goes flat. I agree it is more confusing though. Tony. I think you are correct to say that the step is getting stuck due to some mechanical problem, but the theory is that this will cause excessive current. The power supply then becomes a factor, but it is not the route cause. Phil, I think that what we have is a misunderstanding rather than a disagreement. I read your post a saying that the power for the step is DRAWN from the alternator D+ signal. If you will accept the alteration to CONTROLLED by the alternator D+, I would agree. I fully accept that the fridge D+ controlled 12V power supply is a suitable source for energising the auto retract relay, and supplying the power for this function. The step on my PVC was originally connected as indicated on the Thule diagram. This had the disadvantage that if the ignition was switched on while on site (to read the odometer for example) the step retracted. OH opens door to exit vehicle and nearly falls out. Also converter had taken supply from a 10A fused supply, and increased the fuse size to 25A. Both not good, so wiring modifications made and recorded. I also have considered the problem of retracting the step in the unlikely of the habitation battery failing. Most probably power will be available once the split charge relay is energised, but a temporary patch lead has been considered. I agree with your summation addressed to Tony. Tony, My apologies as the above is off thread, and not addressing your problem. You did state that the step had been cleaned, so I am wondering if my a problem that I encountered may have any bearing. My step out LED started flashing intermittently while the vehicle was in motion. I eventually found that one of the scissor arms was loose where it attached to the gearbox. I my case it was the arm that operates the limit switch. Worth checking the arms on your step if looking inside, but do keep fingers out if applying power. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Alanb - 2018-10-09 7:08 PM Tony, My apologies as the above is off thread, and not addressing your problem. You did state that the step had been cleaned, so I am wondering if my a problem that I encountered may have any bearing. My step out LED started flashing intermittently while the vehicle was in motion. I eventually found that one of the scissor arms was loose where it attached to the gearbox. I my case it was the arm that operates the limit switch. Worth checking the arms on your step if looking inside, but do keep fingers out if applying power. Alan Alan, Unfortunately a loose arm is unlikely to be Tony's problem as he has a sliding step and consequently no arms to come loose! Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwsm2000 Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Alanb - 2018-10-09 7:08 PM ..... Phil, I think that what we have is a misunderstanding rather than a disagreement. I read your post a saying that the power for the step is DRAWN from the alternator D+ signal. If you will accept the alteration to CONTROLLED by the alternator D+, I would agree. I fully accept that the fridge D+ controlled 12V power supply is a suitable source for energising the auto retract relay, and supplying the power for this function. The step on my PVC was originally connected as indicated on the Thule diagram. This had the disadvantage that if the ignition was switched on while on site (to read the odometer for example) the step retracted. OH opens door to exit vehicle and nearly falls out. Also converter had taken supply from a 10A fused supply, and increased the fuse size to 25A. Both not good, so wiring modifications made and recorded. I also have considered the problem of retracting the step in the unlikely of the habitation battery failing. Most probably power will be available once the split charge relay is energised, but a temporary patch lead has been considered. .... Alan, Yes - sorry I should have said "controlled" via D+ Even when controlled by D+, we have still had a near miss when my OH was about to step out just as I started the engine. Pity there isn't an easy way to prevent this if the door is still open. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 Keithl - 2018-10-09 7:25 PM ...Unfortunately a loose arm is unlikely to be Tony's problem as he has a sliding step and consequently no arms to come loose! I’ve attached an exploded-view drawing of an electric slide-out Omnistep and it will be seen that the step is extended/retracted by a set of ‘arms’ operated by a rear-mounted motor within the step’s cassette. Tony’s Autocruise motorhome is a 2009 “Stargazer” and, assuming the step is original, it’s now 9 years old and - from Tony’s comments - has been well exposed to road debris. Tony’s description of the problem and the fact that, when the step sticks, he can cause it to complete the extension/retraction phase by ‘wiggling’ it, strongly suggests that his diagnosis is correct that the problem is mechanical not electrical (and probably just wear-related). As cleaning and lubrication has only provided a temporary fix (and a complete ovehaul would be prohibitively expensive) the surest solution would be to replace the step with a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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