Jump to content

Dometic RM 7601 L refrgerator


Woodmill

Recommended Posts

Hi new member, thank you for letting me join.

 

Fridge works well on gas and 240v however not on engine 12v. Trouble shooter says it could be on-board fuse defective. Changed every fuse that I can find but still does not work, would there be a hidden fuse that I have not found yet.

Many thanks in advance of your help.

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The relay is probably fixed to the rear of the fridge and accessible through the fridge’s lower exterior ventilation grille.

 

There’s a wiring diagram here

 

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/785941/Dometic-Rm-7601-L.html?page=27#manual

 

(Given the Year-2006 age of the motorhome, there’s a fair possibility that the 12V DC heating element has failed.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome, nice to see so many new posters recently.

 

Who is the manufacturer of the electronics installed in the vehicle, Schaudt, CBE, etc? What model numbers can you see?

 

If it is a Blue Schaudt box, have a look near the Starter battery for three 'aftermarket' fuses fixed in a row. Usually a Red 50a, Yellow 20a and grey 2a.

 

Remove each in turn, only one at a time, and check there is no corrosion.

You may find the plastic around the Yellow 20a fuse has overheated and melted trying to supply power for the Fridge.

 

If so replace the Yellow 20a fuse. We recommend upgrading it to a White 25a as the 20a is marginal.

 

If the Fuse holder has been damaged by the overheating often experienced, then fit a new larger style Maxi holder with a 25a fuse.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found the three after market fuses and individually replaced these, no joy I'm afraid.

Looks like it may be the 12v heating element as suggested in a previous post.

I am fairly handy, so is this something I can change, if so where do I purchase one from and where do I find it on the fridge.

Thank you

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Michael,

 

Have you checked for voltage at all of these fuses? And equally important, that there is a good ground connection at the fridge?

 

Test for voltage whilst the fridge is turned on and the engine running to ensure any relays are closed.

 

Keith.

 

PS You did have the engine running when you where initially testing it didn't you?

Sorry if it sounds a dumb question but it wouldn't be the first time someone has asked about a non functioning fridge without having the engine running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you GOOGLE on "dometic rm7601 12v heating element”, this should retrieve adverts from several on-line suppliers of the part. (Make sure you identify the correct part for your Dometic appliance.)

 

The 12V (and 230V) heating elements are enclosed within the insulation that surrounds the flue for the gas-burner. I’ve never replaced either of those elements, but there is some generalised advice here that you might find helpful

 

https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=31&TopicID=250510&PagePosition=1

 

https://www.practicalcaravan.com/forum/technical/50878-replacing-heating-element-dometic-rm-4291

 

The potential problem is going to be gaining sufficient access to carry out the task without moving the Dometic fridge.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far Michael (Woodmill) has been trouble-shooting the no-12V-operation problem on a 'live-in-hope' basis.

 

My previous Hobby motorhome had one of these large Dometic 7-series fridge-freezers and, even though it had exterior ventilation grilles that were sufficiently large to allow me to access the top and bottom of the gas-flue and ‘sweep’ the flue, I’m doubtful that replacing the 12V or 230V heating element would have been a practicable proposition with the fridge/freezer remaining in situ.

 

At the very least, before purchasing a replacement 12V heating element, it would be wise to confirm that the present element needs replacing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would agree wholeheartedly with Derek's post. I was able to identify what was wrong with fridge before ordering

1) Burner control Replaced 9 months after purchase FOC Burner wouldn't light automatically but would

using a hand held flame device

2) Burner Spare as fridge 13 years old

3) Faulty relay Starter battery reading 12.7v with engine running but returned to 13.2v switching engine

off Eventually identified relay as being faulty. Had a spare one so used that

 

It is possible to methodically check the system and identify what's wrong but that doesn't necessary mean you have the ability to change faulty component. But if you are confident then go ahead

 

John

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your comments. Not a silly question Keith????, yes did have the engine running.

What I have not checked is whether there is a power supply to the switch/turn knob, will do this before purchasing any replacement items.

Why are these jobs never straight forward ??. I'll keep you posted.

Thank you

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the LED on the fridge’s energy selector switch illuminates green when 12V operation is chosen and the motorhome’s motor is running, it’s reasonable to assume that power is present at that switch - though that certainly doesn’t mean that the fridge’s 12V heating element is receiving 12V power.

 

This 2017 MHFun forum thread relates to a Dometic RM7*** appliance not working on 12V, how the 12V heating element’s condition might be confirmed, and whether it might be practicable to replace that element without removing the fridge from its enclosure.

 

https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/12-volt-fridge-heating-element-resistance-value.158482/page-2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s clearly not a good sign...

 

This 2012 forum thread related to issues with the energy selector switch of Dometic 7-Series fridges

 

https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Hints-and-Tips/Dometic-RM7291-L-Absorption-Refrigerator/27761/

 

Not sure how relevant it will be to your problem, but it does show what a sod it can be to trouble-shoot this type of fault.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...