colin

I would recommend going to Dometic service centre in Tewkesbury, Ruslan is very good.

I would note that fire services in UK have also warned about this, and as the linked article says, this appears to be due to 'cheap' batteries which are substandard. I may have posted before that a friend of mine nearly lost an eye when a 'cheap' battery exploded in his night vision scope.

I'm not sure how your system would recognise the power levels left in battery, might work, but I don't know. I would warn that there is a increasing problem with 'cheap' battery packs catching fire which would concern me more.

My TT 5100 has behaved oddly a couple of times recently, I wonder if an update is causing problems.

Is this the one in centre of engine bay just below scuttle? If so there's a pipe going to it and a pipe from it to EGR valve. I would note that I had problems which where said by Fiat garage to be this and throttle, turned out to be mice in the inlet tract.

I have always used TomTom's in my vans and have never had them set on maximum volume.

[quote]Doing an engine break-in used to be a standard procedure with new cars. And it’s still the case that you should avoid running the engine at high RPM for the first 1,300 miles. Experts recommend a maximum 3,500 rpm and 90 mph in diesel models and 4,500 rpm and 100 mph in petrol models. [/quote] So drive it as normal then.

True, despite the replies above 'running in' is pretty much a thing of the past, in fact if you where to 'run in' a modern engine like the old jalopies it wouldn't do the engine much good at all.

As Derek has posted, it's very unlikely you have micro switches on the taps, you can check by looking to see if any wires go to the taps.

As I've posted before, the only 'low mileage' pump failure I'm aware of was when someone had a pump changed when the belt was changed, I have serious misgiving over replacing the original Fiat water pump with a aftermarket one.

Prior to Covid our family have made similar arrangements for cars, not sure what might have changed since apart from Brexit, maybe it's a case of ringing round all the insurers, trouble is this year insurance companies have pushed up prices as high as they can, maybe they are just tightening up in all areas.

If the inverter is only for hot water heating then I would question as to why you want to heat water that way, if its for 'free' hot water that doesn't work, as any power you take from alternater loads the engine more and uses more fuel, tapping into the engine cooling system however uses waste heat (at least when engine is up to temperature) and the only cost is initial outlay.

Our van is now 12 years old and had 2 belt changes, still on the original pump. From memory the first vehicle that pumps became an issue was the Astra, it had a very poorly designed water pump, since then it has become common for pumps to be changed even if they don't need to be. Here's a tip, the belt also drives the cams, do you change these as well?

Unless Stelantis, and all other legacy vehicle builders, buck their ideas up they will loose out big time to Chinese. When you consider Tesla have had to drop price of model 3 in China to $22,000 it gives you some idea of the true price of EV's.

When I got back into motorcycle riding about 30 years ago I needed a CBT before taking full test.

Going back to my OP, I've replaced the tensioner pulley bolt with a new one from Fiat, the original head markings where indistinct, but at a guess it was a stretch bolt, the new bolt is a 10.9 high tensile bolt, so I see little need to replace this in future, the idlier bolt is still questionable, the original appears to be a Fiat specific bolt and head is stamped with what looks to be a reference number, the SKF replacement is a 10.9 high tensile bolt and washer.

The problems with charging, and discharging, lithium-ion batteries have been known about for years, a friend nearly lost an eye when a small battery exploded when in use. I would never buy a 'cheap' lithium set up from a unknown supplier. The different types of 'lithium batteries' are more, or less, likely to cause problems.

Have you enquired about updating your Camos? Your Sky box should be able to tune into other satellites, but Sky made it awkward to do.

Whilst the tensioner bolt is available as a separate part, the idler bolt isn't. As Euro Car Parts refuse to refund on the SKF kit (had it over 60 days) this means buying a new kit from Fiat to ensure I get correct bolt.

I've asked both SKF and Euro Car Parts why they have supplied (what I consider) a bodge for idler bolt, they don't want to discus it. Also Euro Car Parts say they cannot supply a replacement tensioner bolt, so I've ordered one off Fiat (Northern Commercials), my feeling is it would be better to reuse the original Fiat bolts on idler than the SKF bodge.

Sort of, but I'm still puzzled that AFAIK the kits include the idler bolts, but the tensioner bolt has to be purchased separately.

The tensioner bolt I have no problem with replacing, it's on order and expected in at our 'new' Fiat Pro garage. it's the bolts for idler pulley's I'm considering reusing as the replacement ones in SKF kit are not to original spec, and I'm not sure why new ones are supplied. A little aside, previously I've dealt with three Fiat Pro garages and have found them to offer a very poor service. When realising I needed to order a new bolt from Fiat I looked up the nearest Fiat Pro, and they where no longer listed, so I looked up the second nearest, these have changed and now it's 'Northern Commercials' at Dunstable, the people there where very helpful with regard to sorting out parts, although they could offer no reason as to why Fiat (and others) supply new idler pulley bolts, and the only way they could get new idler pulley bolts was with a complete kit, and they even found a 'cheaper' Iveco kit which contained the idler pulley bolt, although this was still over £100.

To add to above post, I have ordered a replacement bolt for tensioner pulley from Fiat, as Euro Car Parts cannot supply the bolt. The bolt they do supply in kit is for the idler pulley, and in place of the Fiat style bolt with large flange, they (SKF) have substituted a bolt with small flange and washer to bridge the gap, I'm not too happy with this as it seems a bodge, if it's fine to refit the original (which looks hardly used) I'd rather do that.

Ducato 2011 2.3, am changing the timing belt, I note that the timing belt kits (Fiat and aftermarket) include a new bolt for idler pulley (and idler pulley on aux drive belts), but not the tensioner pulley, this would seem to indicate that the idler pulley's are held on by stretch bolts, but tensioner pulley is standard flanged bolt, the markings on the tensioner pulley are so badly impressed it's hard to tell what it is. So bearing in mind previous threads on this subject, does anyone know for certain if this bolt needs changing?

On our Campscout as well as straps the cylinder base drops into a hole, this was very tight when new, it was a case of rocking the cylinder and wedging one side and rocking against that until it came out. After a couple of cylinder changes I got a drum sander out to the hole to enlarge it a couple of millimetres.