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FAILED START


maggyd

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11.8 volts at battery But engine failed to start ,the motor just groaned and alarm set itself! I put battery on charge for 1/2 hour and the van started, the alarm did not initiate, I would have thought battery would have started at 11.8 volts on the meter!

 

Does anyone know why this could have happened?

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Can't help with the techy bits but from experience, they all lose their charge over time as even when the engine is off power is apparently still being used to feed things like the alarm and various electronic gubbins.

 

It's called progress!

 

How long since it was last OK as, unless you have changed the engine battery at some point, at six years old it may well be getting a bit tired?

 

I'm not surprised that 11.8 Volts - no load I presume - that it would not turn the engine over as the actual voltage available when the starter was engaged would probably be a lot less than 11.8!

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Tracker - 2009-07-09 6:59 PM

 

I'm not surprised that 11.8 Volts - no load I presume - that it would not turn the engine over as the actual voltage available when the starter was engaged would probably be a lot less than 11.8!

Yes, a battery showing 11.8v with no load is virtually flat!

 

Andy

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Yes that is probably whats wrong although I thought that it should start with that charge! its about three weeks since we came back from our 4 weeks tour in Germany we did 2,000 mls so I thought it would have been fully charged! we,ll have to make sure its sorted before our next trip! thanks. :-D
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Just as an aside - we always carry a good pair of jump leads so that if we get stuck either someone can give us a quick jump - shall I rephrase that! - or as a last resort I can disconnect the leisure battery and use that to give myself a quick jump start!

 

Better than being stuck!

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maggyd - 2009-07-09 7:41 PM

 

Yes that is probably whats wrong although I thought that it should start with that charge! its about three weeks since we came back from our 4 weeks tour in Germany we did 2,000 mls so I thought it would have been fully charged! we,ll have to make sure its sorted before our next trip! thanks. :-D

 

Can't say this enough times, a solar panel that charges both batteries is a fit and forget item that means you just get in after however many weeks and start up without thinking about it.

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Syd - 2009-07-09 9:09 PM

 

Hope this helps

 

11.9 Volts = 25% charged

12.6 Volts = 50% charged

13.3 Volts = 75% charged

13.9 Volts = 100% charged

 

Our rather elderly battery was charging to and holding about 12.6 V, but was failing to start the engine (2.8JTD). Battery tested OK by the garage using "Modern" tecnology and then the "OLD" red hot wire and meter method which gave the good side of "iffy".

 

It seemed that although the battery was OK'ish it was not delivering the amps faster enough to turn the engine to make it ignite the deisel.

 

New battery time ! No problems since!

Rgds

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Syd - 2009-07-09 9:09 PM

 

Hope this helps

 

11.9 Volts = 25% charged

12.6 Volts = 50% charged

13.3 Volts = 75% charged

13.9 Volts = 100% charged

 

Those figures are not accurate for a flooded cell lead acid battery 'at rest'.

 

There's a useful state of charge table for different battery types here: http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/SoC.xls

 

It's from: http://www.batteryfaq.org/

 

Andy

 

Andy

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Thanks for those links Andy. The table of voltages is more aligned with the readings from my battery. Even after a 48 hour bench charge it has never read over 13 Volts, either in the van or as an open circuit reading. I have managed to perfrom a start with a reading under 11.7 Volts so I assume the cold cranking current is available.

Does any one know how the SOG (state of charge) figures in the table are defined? For instance, when is the SOG 50%? You'd have thought it was at a voltage halfway between 100% and 0%.

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Clive - 2009-07-10 1:48 PM

 

After a night on hookup you should unplug and run the engine. Now measure the battery terminal voltage with a digital meter. It should read 14 volts. If not find out why!

C.

 

Clive do you mean on hookup with the battey charger on?

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Hi Maggy,

 

Assuming from the previous comments that you have a standard lead acid battery then have you checked the electrolyte (water) level lately?

If not then check it and if necessary top up with de-ionised water and recharge it, then see how you go.

 

Keith.

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OK, But still watch out as some 'Maintenance Free' batteries aren't as 'Maintenance Free' as the makers would like you to think.

If you overcharge them they will lose water and then require topping up, although the plugs can be harder to get out than an ordinary battery.

Is there a level visible on the side or a 'tell tale' in the top which changes colour?

 

Keith.

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Failed start was right *-) all packed up to go! battery been on charge for a couple of days it showed 12.9 on meter !! but the flippin thing wouldnt start!! we managed to start it JUST!!!! while plugged in then shot off to the garage with everything crossed! we just stopped outside and it stalled 8-) phew!!! they tested it and said it was no good!! so a new battery was called for, they fitted it which was a good thing as they are awkward tucked right into the side even the mechanic had a job. Anyway £75 which was good we thought and we were on our way and could relax not afraid that it was going to stall at every trafic lights. Thought Id just let you know the outcome, it was funny though how quickly it had deteriated as just a couple of weeks before we had done all that travelling through Germany with not a hint that the battery was on its way out.
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My failed start was due to an extremely corroded earth connection on the engine casing. The braided copper cable doesn't look too good either.

Despite paying for regular servicing I suspect that the problem has been developing for a while (years?)

The engine is a 1.9 turbo Peugeot built in October 2000. The present mileage is 43000. The previous owner kept it in the open but for the last six years it has been in a dry garage when not in use.

The RAC patrol, initially, sorted the problem very quickly (they seem to carry a very comprehensive array of gear these days) and cleaned up the two chassis earth points but declined to remove the engine connection.

I found out why three days later when the engine failed to start again. Although it was difficult to get to I successfully removed the connection and the head of the bolt!!

I then reconnected the braided cable to a clutch cover bolt (which isn't really a suitable place for it as it has a dished edge) but the engine now turns over far faster than it has done for quite a while. And it drove the 200 miles home without any further problems.

Luckily both failed starts happened in warm dry weather.

On the second occasion (before I repositioned the earth connection) I used one half of my jump leads to connect the battery negative to the rocker cover and then started the engine. There was a fair shower of sparks when I disconnected it.

I have now booked the van in for further repairs (and a discussion as to why the problem had not been noticed before) and to have a direct negative lead fitted from the battery to the engine.

 

 

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