wints Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I would like to use my stand alone solar panel (45 watts) in conjunction with the existing roof mounted panel (80 watts). I have an existing wired up Steca 10 amp solar controller with terminals marked as 'battery', with a black wire in the -ve terminal, and a red wire in the +ve terminal, another terminal marked 'solar' with similar red / black wires. Once I determine the +ve & -ve wires from my stand alone panel can I just put the +ve & -ve wires into the solar terminals of the regulator ? I'm attaching a photo of the regulator in its current state. regards Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Sounds like a plan to me! C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wints Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Clive - 2009-11-26 3:53 PM Sounds like a plan to me! C. Hi Clive, does that mean my proposal / assumption is ok ? I know from past threads, and your web site, that you're quite good on electrickery and computer diagrams. A simple sketch for me would be great. I used to use this panel wired direct to the leisure battery on a previous van, and I was the regulator. I was checking the voltage of the battery about 6 times a day, and would disconnect at about 14. 8 volts. This new to me van has an 80 watt solar panel to the Steca regulator then to an Electroblock EBL 100. I'm hoping to wire the stand alone 45 watt panel, in series I think the technical term to be, which hopefully would give me all the functionality of the on board 12 v control system. thanks Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuwsmith Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I fitted a roof mounted panel to supplement my free standing one after realising that the sunniest places seemed to always be supermarket car parks where leaving a freestanding panel stuck outside the van whilst shopping wasnt advisable! They work fine together and are wired as you propose, in parralel. I dont know how you intend to connect your free standing panel but if you fit an external socket in which to plug the panel when required you may suffer the same problem I encountered. I fitted a trailing socket that neatly resided behind the dummy rear fog light on my VW T4 when not in use. Unfortunately this location wasn't protected from road spray etc and after a winter I found the terminals severely corroded as they effectively remained live due to the output of the roof panel and caused some kind of electrolysis effect. Fitting a switch in the live positive wire cured this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Wints, I think you mean wired in parallel. +ve to +ve, and _ve to -ve. Watch yu max power, the solar control unit is 10 AMps so 120 watts max. Your panels add up to 125 watts, but I expect the power rating is over stated using marketing artistic licence for the panels..but worth checking and if in hot sunny climes maybe not plug in portable unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wints Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Brambles - 2009-11-26 5:47 PM Wints, I think you mean wired in parallel. +ve to +ve, and _ve to -ve. Watch yu max power, the solar control unit is 10 AMps so 120 watts max. Your panels add up to 125 watts, but I expect the power rating is over stated using marketing artistic licence for the panels..but worth checking and if in hot sunny climes maybe not plug in portable unit. Yes, I've got my series and parallel mixed up. When connecting the new wires, in parallel, into the existing Steca controller are there any safety aspects to look out for ? I'm not going to 'spike' anything in the EBL 100 am I ? thanks Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Sod's law says probably. Disconnect the leisure battery -ve terminal on the battery for safety if you do not have an isolation switch - alternatively remove the battery main fuse. Next cover the solar panel or make sure it is a dull day and not generating much if any power. Then very carefully making sure you do not short any wires do one cable at a time. I would put an inline fuse in the +ve to the panels if you do not already have. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wints Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi Jon If I just wire up to a switch and a plug, and be careful not to short anything out whilst doing so, then should be ok. I can then put the stand alone panel into use when required by connecting to the plug. The panel wont be connected at all whilst doing the wiring into the controller. Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spospe Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 wints You must connect the battery before the solar panel(s). This is because the Steca unit can cope with either 12 or 24 systems and it determines which from the battery voltage. As a solar panel produces over 20 volts when it is not connected to a load, the Steca would switch to 24 volt working if the panel were to be connected first. As mentioned, place fuses in the +ve leads. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 spospe - 2009-11-26 10:52 PM wints You must connect the battery before the solar panel(s). This is because the Steca unit can cope with either 12 or 24 systems and it determines which from the battery voltage. As a solar panel produces over 20 volts when it is not connected to a load, the Steca would switch to 24 volt working if the panel were to be connected first. As mentioned, place fuses in the +ve leads. Michael This is indeed correct so you will have to ignore my last post re disconnecting the battery. I just checked the technical manual for the steca controllers. Well spotted Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wints Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Brambles - 2009-11-26 11:40 PM spospe - 2009-11-26 10:52 PM wints You must connect the battery before the solar panel(s). This is because the Steca unit can cope with either 12 or 24 systems and it determines which from the battery voltage. As a solar panel produces over 20 volts when it is not connected to a load, the Steca would switch to 24 volt working if the panel were to be connected first. As mentioned, place fuses in the +ve leads. Michael This is indeed correct so you will have to ignore my last post re disconnecting the battery. I just checked the technical manual for the steca controllers. Well spotted Michael. The battery is already connected, as is the roof mounted 80 watt solar panel. This is shown on my photo as I started the thread. I wont disturb the battery connections. I'll just put the extra 2 wires from the stand alone panel into the solar panel terminals of the regulator. I then intend to run this cable towards the rear garage terminating in some sort of switched plug. A matching plug will be put on the end of the stand alone solar panel cable, this will connect into the 'switched plug' to complement the fixed panels output. Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 wints - 2009-11-27 9:44 AM I then intend to run this cable towards the rear garage terminating in some sort of switched plug. Allen Allen, Remember that this plug will be 'Live' as previously mentioned and take precautions to make sure it can never be shorted or you risk damaging your existing panel or controller. I personally would rather fit a socket which then by it's design can never be shorted. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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