Scotland 6 week tour: Caravan or Motorhome?

[Gwendolyn]

We usually cross back to mainland Europe around 20th August for another 8 week trip, but this year cannot leave until 2 weeks or so later because of family commitments.

 

So perhaps this is the year to explore Scotland. Apart from going to Edinburgh a few times [me for The Fringe; O/H for Rugby Internationals] we have never explored the country, and would like to do so.

 

Particularly interested in West Coast and the islands. Maybe too, if time, a visit to Strathpeffer and thereabouts.

 

Heard a lot about the midge problem. Would that time of year be relatively midge free?

 

AND>> seriously now, no disparaging retorts please…. As we usually use our caravan for UK trips [for reasons well rehearsed on these Forums], is such a trip more suited to caravanning, or will we fare well in our motorhome?

 

Cheers

Gwen

 

PS Or go "over there" as usual, and leave Scotland until we are really old, and unable to get insurance!

 

[malc d]

There are a lot of single track roads in the north west , and on the islands so I would think a motorhome would be best. Off site camping is possible in many places.

Alternatively you could park up the caravan in a more central ( i.e ' busy ' ) place, and tour easily by car, returning to site every night - although that does mean more driving.

 

I've not been a caravanner, but I certainly don't think I would like to take one to places like Mull, or out to the Western Isles.

( Wouldn't fancy reversing it on a single track road ! )

 

Recently returned from a trip up there and hardly saw any midges - but dunno what it's like in Sept.

 

 

;-)

[Rayjsj]

I think a Motohome (but then I'm biased). plenty of places to stop and enjoy the view, plus put the kettle on for a cup of tea (or a dram). Keep well away from the cities though, and that includes loch lomond and around there. Go up to Skye, take the ferry across to Harris, go across to the Uists, remember Fort William is where the Highlands start, so go farther, up to Ullapool and beyond to Sango Sands, acoss to Durness, Dunnet Head and Thurso.

I find the single track roads with recognized Passing Places relaxing, everyone knows where they stand , unlike South Devon and Cornwall where it's a 'free for all' and very scary. Most (repeat 'most') drivers in the highlands are courteous, as long as you pull over and let them pass, after all we are holiday, they are probably on their way to work.

THE MIDGES, yes they can be a problem, especially from the end of June until September. Go prepared or go in May. Ray

[Guest JudgeMental]

You ask such a question on a motorhome forum, what do expect us to say 8-)

[crinklystarfish]

If you are going to stay in the same place for more than a few days at a time, then a caravan is logical. If you are going to be moving on most of the time, then a motorhome is logical.

 

Some of the (non-major) roads up there would certainly be more stressful if towing a caravan and it would be easy to get stuck if meeting an oncoming driver in the wrong place.

 

If unclassified back roads are of interest then a caravan would be a liability.

 

Midges can be a real pain, ticks are also ever more prevalent and are something the Scottish tourist industry is rightly getting a bit windy about.

 

It's good though.

 

 

 

[Muswell]

Aiugust is bad for midges. The Islands are better from this point of view because there is more wind and they don't fly above a certain speed.. Never park near streams etc. You can park up and everything is fine then as it gets later out they come. They can be like a cloud of smoke and some people even wear hats with mesh screens which protect the whole head and neck. You don't get them everywhere and all the time but if they are out you won't be sitting outside sipping a drink. We've been in August 4 or 5 times and put up with it and were thinking of it again this year but ideally we'd go in May. I would take a motorhome, preferably small, because you would be able to visit places which you wouldn't get to without a lot of driving from the campsite.

[Gwendolyn]

JudgeMental - 2013-07-13 8:59 AM

 

You ask such a question on a motorhome forum, what do expect us to say 8-)

 

"Don't even think of it"???? Because all I read on here are moans about how the UK is not motorhome friendly: height barriers; lack of places to park; no Aires etc etc ….. as I said in the OP, these things are much rehearsed on the Forum. Posts indicate that it is much pleasanter to motorhome on the European Mainland.

 

So that is why I ask the question on the Motorhome section. I need feedback from people who have motorhomed without undue stress in the parts of Scotland we would like to visit.

 

Oh… and this section seems to attract more replies than the Caravan section.

 

Now I will peruse the other replies.

 

Cheers

Gwen

 

[malc d]

Gwendolyn - 2013-07-13 11:27 AM

 

 

"Don't even think of it"???? Because all I read on here are moans about how the UK is not motorhome friendly: height barriers; lack of places to park; no Aires etc etc …..

 

 

Cheers

Gwen

 

My experience is that Scotland is more motorhome friendly than the rest of the U.K. -

But then that is probably because they have a lot more space.

 

( ...and they may well be leaving us soon ).

 

Just don't rely on be able to buy anything on a Sunday in the highlands.

 

;-)

[the general]

Ah ! Scotland after many yrs long haul destinations I started on uk 5 yrs ago and fell in love with remote Scotland I have wildcamp in my transit ( hope to buy PVC nx yr ) without doubt mh is best I am sure up high to take in views to see wild life on roads especially on single track rds in the n west &if you go across islands mh comes into its own midges ? does anyone have any tips ! one of the most bizzare site I came across in Durness a John Lennon memorial garden( he visited in 60s & retured with yoko ) I am a music buff and found that interesting being a place so remote

[EJB]

We went to the wild parts of Scotland 6 years ago...it was our last year as caravanners.

We stayed at 3 sites (about a week or two in each) this involved a drive to see the sites then driving back along slow roads every day.

It got quite tedious.

A MH allows you to move on...every day if necessary!

[snowie]

EJB - 2013-07-13 2:01 PM

 

A MH allows you to move on...every day if necessary!

 

I don't see how a vehicle type necessarily encourages or dissuades you, surely they just facilitate.

If I had a caravan I could decide to move every day, no problem.

Levelling a motorhome/camper can be just as much of a clat as levelling a caravan, maybe more so. That's just my opinion.

I accept that it's easier to "wild" camp with a motorhome, but that wasn't the original question,

regards

alan b

[Muswell]

snowie - 2013-07-13 2:10 PM

 

EJB - 2013-07-13 2:01 PM

 

A MH allows you to move on...every day if necessary!

 

I don't see how a vehicle type necessarily encourages or dissuades you, surely they just facilitate.

If I had a caravan I could decide to move every day, no problem.

Levelling a motorhome/camper can be just as much of a clat as levelling a caravan, maybe more so. That's just my opinion.

I accept that it's easier to "wild" camp with a motorhome, but that wasn't the original question,

regards

alan b

 

There are quite big chunks where it would be foolish to take a caravan IMO because the roads are so narrow, and many of the passing places just will not accept the length of car and caravan. You have to be very cautious putting a wheel off the road. I did this on Jura to let a local past and if I hadn't kept the van rolling I would have been really stuck.

[Gwendolyn]

Thanks for all the replies. My thoughts were running along these lines:

 

The places where we have enjoyed caravanning the most in the UK tend to be in areas where lanes are narrow, and access to villages, coves and beaches quite difficult. I am thinking of the South Hams in Devon; the Roseland and Lizard Peninsulas in Cornwall; the Llyn and Gower Peninsulas in Wales. I would not like to be driving a motorhome in such places. Which is why we hang on to the caravan [although have little use for it nowadays as we spend more time “over there”….. still there are occasions when we use it, and it’s lovely to have the choice.]

 

Even where we live [Pembrokeshire] I know that I would not wish to be driving down some of the lanes to a beach in the motorhome. Bad enough in the car!

 

We take the caravan, say, to the South Hams, and use a car to access places. I suppose, in those scenarios, we are exploring quite small areas. I guess, were we to go to Scotland, we’d be doing a much broader “sweep” rather than exploring, in detail, a small area.

 

It’s a case of deciding between:

 

- taking the caravan to, say, a few locations for long-ish stays, and travelling around by car along the one track roads to explore in detail in the vicinity

 

- or motorhoming, and covering a lot of ground, but seeing less in each location. Although I’m getting the impression that if we wish to travel to some of the islands, then the motorhome has it.

 

And, of course there is the general tone of the Forum which tells me UK is motorhome no-go area!! [i noticed another new thread on that topic has sprung up.] Although it would seem that Scotland is different.

 

Well, I‘ll get out the maps and ponder….. but feedback on the midge problem is indicating that May would be a better time, rather than September. Next year we will have to be home at the end of May for another family “do”, thus cutting into our usual May & June trip… so perhaps late April / May next year would be the better option.

 

Thanks for all the feedback.

 

Gwen

 

 

[malc d]

Gwendolyn

 

 

Driving down the narrow lanes of Devon, Cornwall and Pembrokeshire cannot be compared to the single track roads of northern Scotland.

 

For a start there is not so much traffic, but mainly it's because the Scottish roads have passing places every couple of hundred yards or so, and you can normally see well ahead so meeting someone coming the other way is not a surprise. Just don't plan to go anywhere fast.

The drivers up there, many of them from the continent are very good at ' give and take ' on the road, and most will pull in to a passing place if they are nearest to one.

The cars up there even pull over to let us pass on bikes.

 

I don't like driving in Englands south west because of the lanes, where I've often had to reverse, but I've never had a problem up north.

 

 

;-)

[Robinhood]

Gwen,

 

.....if you haven't visited Scotland, and particularly the West Coast, then I would consider it a "must".

 

If you get good weather, then there are few places in (near-) Europe that surpass it for views (on the other hand, if you get bad weather, there is little to do but sit it out :-().

 

Traditionally, May and September have been "shoulder" months in the midge season, but rumours are that the season is becoming extended. I have rarely had really bad sessions with them, but if they are bad, they certainly are BAD. (The only place I've ever seen a road gang working in full midge suits is on the road along Loch Ewe from Poolewe).

 

If I were planning a six-week trip, as a matter of weather-odds I'd rather do April into May than September into October (though the Month of September alone wouldn't daunt me). April may well have snow relatively low down, though.

 

Driving is largely uneventful; single-track roads with passing places are far better than narrow two-track roads (no-one is generally trying to squeeze past you), and bimbling along at the appropriate speed is great for sightseeing (as long as you keep an eye on the mirror, and let faster traffic overtake at passing places). Finding somewhere to park and explore is rarely a problem, particularly off-season. There are few of the roads I wouldn't attempt in my van (though some minor dead-end roads I can think of may present turning difficulties). (I wouldn't do the coast road South of Lochinver in my 'van, (it has an 8m length limit on it) though others say they would - I've done it a good few times in the car).

 

A good example of an approach to a remote campsite (Clachtoll - which is in the "dunes") is at:

 

http://goo.gl/maps/NWbEs

 

.....single track road, line of sight to two passing places at least - giving plenty of time to react. (..and I deliberately picked a good "Google Day" ;-).)

 

As for whether a 'van or caravan is the better option, then, for a first visit, I would recommend using the 'van. 4 to 6 weeks would give you ample opportunity to drive up the West Coast, take in a few islands, cross the North, and pull in some sights on the (IMO) less interesting East Coast. (Strathpeffer is a bit "twee" for me, watching the dolphins off Rosemarkie is a bit better). There will be plenty (weather permitting) to keep you occupied, and you will inevitably find sights that are difficult of access in the 'van, but that you can save for a further visit.

 

The 'van would give you the option of wildcamping (particularly if you hit the Outer Hebrides), though sites are available to cover a decent itinerary, they're just a bit spaced out.

 

We walk and cycle, and rarely take the' van off a site once/if we are pitched. The only thing I then find restrictive is that I hill walk, and access to the mountains I want to do is often remote, and with little nearby parking for a motorhome. I thus savour a few visits using the car and self-catering accommodation (it used to be a tent!) for the more difficult ones.

 

So, on touring Scotland, our pattern is to move round, spend a day or two on sites exploring locally, and use the move to the next site to explore wider afield. In a car (with a caravan), due to the restricted number of routes available, you are likely to find yourself covering those "moving on" miles both out and back, which seems both illogical and wasteful.

 

Whilst Mull (Fidden Farm campsite for Iona) and Skye are both very accessible, some of the other islands require a bit of planning (and possibly booking of ferries) to fit into an itinerary.

 

If/when you do decide to go, I (and others on here) will have plenty of info on sites that would build an itinerary.

 

 

 

 

 

[Gwendolyn]

Thanks guys, for all the input. Helpful as ever.

 

Reassuring post from malc d re driving down narrow lanes!

 

Robinhood - Yes, know that we “must” go. In fact, when I went to the Fringe, I tent camped out at Musselburgh with Dear Daughter and we did explore a little around the area, and that gave me a desire to “do” Scotland properly. Astonishingly, as I’ve realised, that was 10 years ago. Revisited Edinburgh a few times since but that’s all.

 

Reason for wanting to visit Strathpeffer is personal, and a bit sentimental.

 

One decision made having read the posts – it will be the motorhome.

 

Just have to decide when.

 

I’ll copy and paste a lot of this and save it in my “travel” file and return for more info when we fix a date.

 

Cheers

Gwen

 

 

 

 

 

 

[colin]

I think Robin's saved me writing a long post, he's summed it up pretty well I'd say. The Lochinver road was the site of our second biggest traffic jam last year when a Volvo hire car full of spanish tourists stuffed it in a stone wall blocking the road and the ensuing chaos wasn't helped by a coachbuilt attempting the road.

[Robinhood]

Gwendolyn - 2013-07-13 9:20 PM

 

Reason for wanting to visit Strathpeffer is personal, and a bit sentimental.

 

 

....understood.

 

I think my views are somewhat formed by the fact that it was the holiday haunt of a much-loved (and very-) maiden Aunt, and thus had associations from the first time I visited.

[Robinhood]

colin - 2013-07-13 9:21 PM

 

I think Robin's saved me writing a long post, he's summed it up pretty well I'd say. The Lochinver road was the site of our second biggest traffic jam last year when a Volvo hire car full of spanish tourists stuffed it in a stone wall blocking the road and the ensuing chaos wasn't helped by a coachbuilt attempting the road.

 

.....there aren't too many walls, but there is one right in the "bottleneck", so I suspect I can visualise it.

 

Last time I was up there, someone had taken a brand new Merc minibus straight off the road and down the bank, leaving it 10ft below perched on boulders, so we ended up playing good Samaritan (and digging huge boulders out with ice-axes to clear a route for the recovery truck to drag it out!)

 

(well it breaks the monotony of the scenery ;-))

[malc d]

Gwendolyn - 2013-07-13 9:20 PM

 

Thanks guys, for all the input. Helpful as ever.

 

Reassuring post from malc d re driving down narrow lanes!

 

Cheers

Gwen

 

 

 

Just to add that in Scotland these narrow strips of tarmac are referred to as " roads " not lanes.

( Don't want to upset the locals ).

You should try a little ' drive ' up the A836 to Altnaharra using Google maps to see what it's like.

( Yes, really - it's an ' A ' road ).

 

In the south west of England there are high hedges / walls etc - but the highlands are mostly quite barren so you can see a lot better/ further.

 

Interesting to me to see visitors there from Austria and Switzerland - I wonder what they make of it.

 

;-)

[Muswell]

Austria and Switzerland feel rather suburban compared with Scotland which is definitely wild. They also don't have the sea and islands. I think we should be grateful for the frequently bad weather and the midges which stop the Highlands and Islands from being packed with tourists.

[Guest 1footinthegrave]

We actually lived in a part of Wales that was unknown to us at the time, a hot spot for midges, not sure if they are the same as those found in Scotland, all I can say is having endured them for nearly five years we were so very glad to get the hell out of there when we finally found someone to buy our place, it was a very pretty spot, but when grown forestry men fear going into the woods that's good enough to keep me away, good luck with it, and cover yourself copiously with Avon skin so soft, and get a midge hat. ;-)

 

if you've never experienced them before and youre not prepared you'll understand this is essential attire when you do.

[Guest pelmetman]

Having only ever attempted a couple of forays to the nether regions ;-)............and beaten back each time by the mighty midge 8-) ................I'll watch this thread with interest :-S.......................

 

 

 

 

I nearly gave them an armful last time 8-)..............

[Brock]

Having caravanned and motorhomed, I would be tempted to take the caravan.

 

Scotland is not full of narrow roads with passing places. There are enough but with a good map or satnav, you can avoid them. Yes it will restrict where you can go, but it's not a massive problem. It will depend on which you are most comfortable driving forwards and backwards.

 

When we used the caravan, we stayed on sites for a week or so and used the car to go out in. That was easy enough although not having the kitchen kettle and toilet was always going to be a bummer.

 

With so much uncertainty with our climate, it is increasingly difficult to estimate the midges problem because these little nippers are also affected by climate change. They don't do well in wet weather whereas cold weather can depress their predator numbers. Also, some people are hardly affected; the midges must have a menu of people! Traditionally, the stronger September winds blow the midges away but who knows what the weather will be like. Search the internet for recommendations on midge repellants.

 

I know the attraction of the west coast and I have been plagued by the midges. The east coast is underrated and the roads tend to be better. I can't recall a midges problem. If you can tear yourself away from the idea of the west coast, a trip up to Edinburgh, around Fife, up the coast to Fraserburgh and then across to Inverness and up the coast to John o Groats will give you pleasant rolling countryside, a better climate, fewer midges, and better roads. You can take time to go into the Grampians if you want some hills. Brora is a good base for exploring the eastern highlands; from Inverness, you can easily cross to the west coast on days that take you fancy.

[Bulletguy]

Brock - 2013-07-14 8:41 AM

 

Scotland is not full of narrow roads with passing places. There are enough but with a good map or satnav, you can avoid them. Yes it will restrict where you can go, but it's not a massive problem........

 

Avoiding these little roads means you will be missing out on some of the best parts of Scotland, not to mention the remoteness and unspoilt nature.

 

As I have a Campervan it will go anywhere a car will go and if stuck, easy to manoeuvre out of any tight spots. Also worth remembering that some of these narrow single track roads have deep drops either side for drainage. Slip one wheel off and you won't be getting out without the aid of a friendly farmer!

 

I've toured Scotland extensively including many of the islands and lost count of the number of large CB owners who never ventured off the major roads. They missed out on a lot.