milpol1 Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 I have a 2007 AT Cheyenne 840SE....I have connected the gas bottle, checked the connection, switched it on however no gas coming through, now on my last MH there was an isolation switch for each of the appliances in a cupboard near the oven, can I find the isolation switches on the CHeyenne, NO!, anybody got a clue please. Nothing in the user manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docted Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Are you sure you've got gas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Has it ever worked? How long have you owned your MH? Keith. Edit. To add, Is isolating valve below regulator turned on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJay Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 If you have a rubber hose connection, how old is it?. You get sediment laying in the hose, so best to change to a Stainless Steel one. We had to change ours after two years, but no problem since then. PJay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milpol1 Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 docted - 2014-04-13 5:45 PM Are you sure you've got gas? Yres lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milpol1 Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Keithl - 2014-04-13 6:35 PM Has it ever worked? How long have you owned your MH? Keith. Edit. To add, Is isolating valve below regulator turned on? Had it 2 weeks.......regulator switched on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 What you are looking for is the manifold, (or the autotrail equivalent of it), I note from the handbook Gas flows from the gas cylinder via a bulkhead mounted regulator to a set of safety shut off valves that supply each individual appliance in the vehicle. The valves allow isolation of a single appliance without affecting the operation of other equipment. Each valve has a symbol fixed to it that indicates which appliance it is supplying. The location of the isolation valves varies from model to model, and depending on the layout some vehicles may have two individual sets of valves. Please familiarise yourself with the location of these valves before using your vehicle for the first time. well thats helpful then *-) p.s. I see they include a photo of a 'typical' setup and this appears to be under a shelf, so have you got down on hands and knees? I had a similar problem trying to find the light switch in toilet of our van, it was under a shelf and not allways visible if standing to close to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 milpol1 - 2014-04-13 7:52 PM Keithl - 2014-04-13 6:35 PM Has it ever worked? How long have you owned your MH? Keith. Edit. To add, Is isolating valve below regulator turned on? Had it 2 weeks.......regulator switched on OK, Did you buy private or from a dealer? Can you ask previous owner/dealer for help? And was anything demonstrated at handover/purchase? On our 2004 AT Cheyenne there is a master isolation valve just below the regulator in the gas locker, the handle must be 'in line' with the pipework for gas to flow. Then there are smaller banks of isolation valve in cupboards near each appliance, for example under the side sofa for fridge, oven and water heater and in a locker behind the gas fire for the fire and outside BBQ point. Just search every locker, cupboard and under cooker, etc until you find them. I take it by your comment that NO appliance works, if so and after all the searching above, then it is quite probable that you have a failed regulator as previously suggested. Keith. PS Just in case you don't have an owners manual you can download one from the AT website... Link to AT and also all the electrical wiring diagrams from Sargent electrical... Link to SE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread24800 Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 My Regulators have a cunning reset button, some are red (some are not) pays to press to reset where there is a lack of gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 milpol1 A 2007 Auto-Trail should have a bulkhead-mounted 30mbar gas-regulator. This regulator will almost certainly have originally been a Truma/GOK product that may (or may not) have a yellow integrated gas shut-off 'switch'. These regulators have a poor reliability record and, if the gas system was working when you bought your motorhome but no longer works, you should suspect regulator failure. There is also the possibility that the regulator may be a Truma/GOK "SecuMotion"/DriveSafe" model that has a green button that needs to be reset each time a gas-bottle is replaced. This type of regulator normally uses a special flexible gas-hose with a green button that also needs to be reset each time a gas-bottle is replaced. The simplest way to check if the regulator is not allowing gas to pass through it would be to loosen the joint at the regulator's outlet. If no gas escaped, then the problem would lie with the regulator or with the gas-hose leading from the gas-bottle to the regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milpol1 Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 All working fine now, the 4 isolator knobs were located ina drop down cupboard under the fridge freezer and what numpty decided they should be in that location needs to have a brain transplant, designers!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milpol1 Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 Thanks for all the answers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletguy Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 milpol1 - 2014-04-14 5:58 PM All working fine now, the 4 isolator knobs were located ina drop down cupboard under the fridge freezer and what numpty decided they should be in that location needs to have a brain transplant, designers!!!!!!! I couldn't agree more with that. My van mains power supply unit is in a cupboard right down at floor level requiring you to crawl around with torch to see what you are doing. Ludicrous! Another example of madness is the roof aerial. A/S fit a nice new roof....only to go and drill a hole in the thing to mount a roof aerial. Fine......until you come to have to replace it which requires removing two inner roof panels and is a two man job....just to re-fit a damn aerial. They could easily have bonded a copper wire internal aerial in the roof but that seems to be outside their level of basic common sense thinking. I'm currently trying to fit a set of 'after market' speakers in my van. The Mk5 Transit uses 5 x 7 elliptical in the doors. You would think it's a simple matter of purchasing a quality pair of 5 x 7's (the standard Ford ones are rubbish), and screwing in to the existing mounts. You can't. In their twisted logic Ford made the mount holes just outside the 'normal' after market speaker mounts purposely making it more difficult for you to mount. I could write a book on this kind of annoying habit practiced by manufacturers, but a good 'rule of thumb' is the newer the vehicle, the more difficult it will prove to fit any non-OEM part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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