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Hook up not working


Robdought

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Hi

 

Yesterday I decided to replace my Leisure Battery on my 2001 swift gazelle Motorhome. Sadly I put the terminals on the wrong way around. As a result it blew a fuse in my glove compartment box15amp.

 

I replaced the fuse however the Motorhome is plugged at home and the electric supply was fine up to this point.

 

I've checked the fuses to the battery all fuses in glove box and can confirm electricity supply is getting to the Motorhome.

 

The van starts the light all work on leisure and cab battery, but nothing working on electric plugs sockets lights etc..

 

I is there any other things I can check or more fuses or breakers in my van I'm not aware of. My wife is gutted and I'm in the fog house. For the time being. :'( whats the worst case I could have done.

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Hi I've checked the fuses in the glove box for the Motorhome. The fuses to Leisure Battery. And the fuses to all the appliances in the Cupboard

 

Only fuse that wanted changing was the blue 15 amp that for the battery hazard warning lights.

 

MCB box has two cut out switches they are on. I have pressed the reset button on the unit.

 

My experience and knowledge is below average please bear with me.

 

Regards

 

 

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You need to start at the beginning and work your way forward. First can you confirm you have 220 volts at the point you connect your hook up at the house. Can you confirm you are getting 220 volts at the other end of the hook up cable. Can you confirm you have 220volts at the motorhome fuse board. Hopefully you are using a voltmeter and not a volt stick?

A word of caution, if you are not confident, get an electrician to have a look.

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On your MCB there is a test button , I think you may have called this a reset button, when you press it the MCB should trip off and ened to be swiched on again. If it does not trip off you have not got power at this point. Check your supply is live with another electrical item, then check the plug fuse supplying your hook up lead. Maybe the plug fuse has blown.
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Another possibility is that you have blown the large fuse near to the leisure battery and when you say the lights work off the leisure battery what you are actually doing is running them off the power supply unit and its mains input and NOT the leisure battery.

Unplug your mains lead and see if the lights still work off the leisure battery to prove or disprove my theory.

 

Keith.

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Hi brambles

 

I did that with the unit pressed the button and it tripped off back. I've also checked the fuse supplying my my hook up. Does that mean power is entering the Motorhome

.

 

I'm Billy basic so excuse my limited knowledge.

 

I've also used a different cable from a new socket in the house and still have same problem.

 

 

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Hi Keith

 

I've checked both fuses that are connected to the leisure battery they are great. I've removed the ehu cable from the motor home and the leisure and cab batteries both independently light the lights water pump etc in the Motorhome.

 

Thanks for your help

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Possibly I am back tracking here but you need to check you are getting 240 volts from mains sockets in the Motorhome. This will confirm you have 240 volts. Use a portable lamp or somethng else mains powered. If not then you need to find why not and will probbaly be in the main circuit breaker or distribution box fo mains wiring in teh van. So assuming you have power...next step.

 

Unplug the mains hook up, Then disconnect the leidure battery negative. Reconnect the mains hook up and check if you can power 12 volts equipment like lights.

If they do not work then you need to look at the power supply/charger. It may have a fuse which needs replacing. Ther is a strongh posibility youhave damaged it, but this may be as simple as an internal fuse if there are no user accessible fuses. (If you can select power use from leisure or vehicle battery select leisure)

 

Assuming lights do work with the battery disconnected or after finding say a fuse blown and replaced it then reconnect the battery AFTER disconnecting mains lead again. The reconnect. Check again if things do or do not work. Now you need some way of checking battery votage. A voltmeter is rquired to chekc if teh voltage without mains connected is around 1 to 13 volts. With mains connected it should be 13.8 to 14.4 volts.

 

Me saying all automotive equipment etc. should be immune to reverse battery voltage to meet the required regulations does not help as you clearly have a fault somewhere. However is it posible you already had a fault and is why you replaced the battery, it getting the blame when indeed a fault already existed.

 

 

 

 

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I suspect there is another fuse somewhere that you haven't found yet.

 

Look close to the liesure battery, to see if there is an in-line fuse on the cables connecting to the battery - not necessarily right up close to the battery, so maybe further along the cables.

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The problem with any older vehicle is that previous owners could have put accessories in and wired them up themselves. Of course there will be no record of this. My 45 year old land rover's wiring is nothing like it was originally.

Look for any obviously non standard wires that lead from the battery or the control box.

Just be careful when you are on hook up, you have 240v somewhere.

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I think Rob needs to follow Brambles' sequence above to determine exactly what works, and what doesn't.

 

At the moment there is some remaining confusion, IMO, as to whether or not the 240V sockets are live with mains connected. This can easily and safely be tested by plugging a lamp or similar into each socket, and turning it on.

 

It seems that the 12V electrics work, but we do not know whether this is with mains connected (meaning they are running from the charger), or disconnected (meaning they must be running from the battery). Again, this can be easily and safely tested by trying the lights with the mains conneced, and then again with it disconnected.

 

It is possible that by reverse connecting the battery Rob has damaged the charger unit. It may be that it has just blown an internal protective fuse on the charger (it will help if Rob can say what make, and if possible model, of charger is fitted), which can presumably be replaced (with mains disconnected! :-)), or that the charger is damaged beyond repair. It seems a bit odd to me that RP on the 12V side should blow out the mains circuits, but if it has, it would suggest that the damage to the charger is fairly extensive.

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Hi Brian

 

It's a INTER-POWER BATTERY CHARGER serial nimbler 16078 originally supplied by Plug in Systems in Hull.

 

I've been on the web site the model is no longer in use but they sell re-conditioned ones at £80.

 

I have a

So had the unit of the wall and tried to gain access having removed around 8 screws it does appear to be a sealed unit.

 

Does any one know how to open these units and will be Any fuses in there that needs replacing.

 

I did not want to force the unit open I've done enough damage.

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Really need to know which model, but the one I think it might be has a switch at one end and there is also a 15 Amp fuse. Its a flush fitted fuse holder with a screw driver slot. I could be wrong if it is different model. You must fit with the same type of fuse.
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hi Brambles

 

Yes that's the one it does have a 15 amp fuse in. I did not see that yesterday when I took the unit out. The shops are closed now so I will get one in the morning. Also do you know if there is another fuse inside this unit.

 

It was a struggle getting it out of a very small cupboards . Don't want to put it back in and find I need to take it out later.

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There is a very good chance there is an internal fuse as well. I am assuming your unit is in a metal case which is screwed together ( 6 screws?), There may well be two rivets holding it together as well which need to be drilled out but have not seen any on pictures I have, but not impossible.

Googling I have found this side and pictures of various boards show an internal fuse. A picture of your unit would speak a thousand words. I cannot imagine it being sealed apart from rivets, or if it is in a plastic case having clippy bits to make it snap rogether before screws are used.

 

Found this website just now googling which may be of help.

http://www.expluginsteve.co.uk/page4.htm

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Hi, I bBetter bring up todate.

Robdought and I have been chatting my email as a lot easier. The relevant part is teh pwer supply had been opend and indeed wjere fuses inside. They all appreard to be OK biut more fuses have been found and faulty one replaced. Power has now been restored and al lights and 12 volt sockets are working again. Even better he has a voltameter.

 

However it is not all smiles. The water pump is not working and teh red light on the switch panel is not coming on. I have suggested checking power is getting to the water pump switch on the basic (non Electronic) control panel. Also suggested if the illuminated switch is LED and not filament lamp then it could have blown with reverse voltage.

 

So it seems luck was looking over his shoulder and fuses have done ther job protecting the power supply. Now just the water pump and I feel a case of just tracing the wiring and findsing any more fuses, but worth checking 1st if 12 volts is getting to the pump and pump itself has failed.....cannot see why it should have failed though. It is a Shurflo pump. part no. 2095-204-4?3. Can't read 2nd last digit in photo.

 

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Hi guys, just wanted to say you have my admiration for the assistance being offered to the OP, hopefully the problem will get resolved successfully. Proof, if it was needed, of the true strength and purpose of this board :-) . Great advice and helpful responses.
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