Goneoff Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Red Light on Truma Combi 6E in Rapido 9066df. We are currently in the south of France (out for 5 weeks) which is a great place to be but not when your Truma boiler isn’t working/firing up. It was working a few days ago but now we are on a site connected to electricity it doesn’t work red light comes on all both electric and gas energy sources. I hear a click when I try switching it on when on gas but no rapid clicking as if it is trying to light, just one solitary click and after a few second on comes the red light. I have looked on this site and checked all the other posts and tried all basic checks; we have gas checked it is flowing to both cooker and fridge, tried unplugging the mains electric and firing up on 12v, there are no obstructions to the vent, tried constantly switching on and off, tried switching electric off at the control panel to try and re-set; but get the red light every time. We are obviously fine now on a site but we intend to move on a stay on a variety of aires where we will need the boiler. I have looked in the boiler housing but to remove any covers and read fault codes you need to be a thin midget who practices gynaecology. From what I have read they are a complicated piece of kit and can be expensive should a PCB board need replacing. Would appreciate any suggestions anyone may have for me to try to sort this or if anyone has experienced the same issue and knows what needs fixing through Truma. Cheers in advance, and yes the weather here is just suburb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randonneur Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 I know this might sound stupid but has the boiler dropped its water by any chance. Don't know if it should work on electric or not even if you can't get it to work on gas. We had the same problem, but ours is only gas, had to have a new thermocouple fitted, luckily it was covered under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 As a Combi heater is designed to be operable empty of water, whether or not it has water in it should not influence the start-up procedure. There’s trouble-shooting advice on Page 19 of this Truma document (which you quite likely already have) http://dealer.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/34020_29300.pdf No “rapid clicking” sound when gas-operation is selected might indicate an igniter-related fault but, as the heater won’t work on 230V either, this suggests the problem is more deep rooted. (I guess you’ve tried pressing the red 230V reset button on the heater? I can’t see that doing anything good, but it might be worth trying!!) You appear to have tried everything that’s practicable without reading the fault codes. As the heater reacts similarly when you select gas or 230V operation, this does suggest a pcb-related fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artheytrate Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 have you opened a window above the flue outlet, or got the window on vent opening, if so boiler wont fire up because of the danger of flue exhaust gasses entering the habitation. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 When our combi4 did simalar it was just a case of getting a good contact for plug on back of control switch, so if you can get to this give it a wriggle or unplug and plug back in. If you can get the cover off the main unit pcb try the same on connections there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe90 Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 artheytrate - 2014-10-20 4:58 PM have you opened a window above the flue outlet, or got the window on vent opening, if so boiler wont fire up because of the danger of flue exhaust gasses entering the habitation. John. How does that work I wonder ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Joe90 - 2014-10-20 7:44 PM artheytrate - 2014-10-20 4:58 PM have you opened a window above the flue outlet, or got the window on vent opening, if so boiler wont fire up because of the danger of flue exhaust gasses entering the habitation. John. How does that work I wonder ? With the Truma cut-out switch designed for just such a purpose. ............and no, I've never seen one "in the flesh" either ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 It will be either a 'mechanical' micro switch or a magnetic reed switch (similar to a burglar alarm door switch). Either will be clearly visible on the edge of the window directly above the flue (not necessarily above the heater itself). Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coach2000 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 To do a full reset of the electronics there are 2 live feeds on the pcb panel on the heater that you have to disconnect by removing the spade connectors. The heater remains live after turning off the habitation area electrics and heater switch. It could be awkward to do but should be tried if possible. Clive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Truma’s ‘window shut-off’ arrangement is described here https://dealernew.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/34000_97500.pdf On-line images of a Rapido 9066df suggest that the heater’s flue is not directly below an opening window, though Truma’s historical advice was that shut-off components should be installed if the flue were “...beneath or up to 30cm beside an opening window...” (Frankly, as Rapido habitually rides roughshod over Truma’s heater-installation instructions, I’d be surprised if a shut-off switch were fitted in Goneoff’s motorhome even if it should have been!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Derek Uzzell - 2014-10-21 7:56 AM Truma’s ‘window shut-off’ arrangement is described here https://dealernew.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/34000_97500.pdf On-line images of a Rapido 9066df suggest that the heater’s flue is not directly below an opening window, though Truma’s historical advice was that shut-off components should be installed if the flue were “...beneath or up to 30cm beside an opening window...” (Frankly, as Rapido habitually rides roughshod over Truma’s heater-installation instructions, I’d be surprised if a shut-off switch were fitted in Goneoff’s motorhome even if it should have been!) So it is a 'Mechanical' switch whose button needs pressing to make the heater function. Assuming of course, as Derek has said, that one is fitted in the first place. Quote from Installation instructions... "Fig. A: Place window switch against window pane such that the switch flag (2) is pressed down." Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 When My 4E did this, it turned out to be a fuse Blown on the main PCB, wouldn't work on mains or gas. I now have a supply of spare fuses, but have not needed them YET, we STILL often get a 'Red light Shutdown' but a POR (IT 'speak' for 'have you powered it off and back on again' ) seems to reset it, no distinct pattern, it just seems to 'do it' when it feels like being a nuisance. Of course at annual service check time, it behaves impeccably. We now carry an oiled filled radiator, 'cause we no longer 'Trust it' especially in very cold weather. (give me an Eberspacher any day !). Ray It has been hinted to me that I possibly have a 'Downlevel' PCB on the heater, but no-one will confirm that 'UNTIL' it has run out of warranty ?.i wonder why ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolero boy Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 agree with Ray, we have had the red light syndrome on and off for a while despite at least two new PCBs. a temporary cure is to isolate the 12v supply......if the fuse isnt broken.... this can be done (of you have Sargent electronics) by powering down the Sargent PSU power supply unit, or removing the tiny 3a (i think) fuse from under the top cover, or indeed sometimes by pressing the reset switch which is set quite deeply i to the tp of the unit and needs a pencil or similar to reach the recessed switch. turning off the 12v has cured our red light error which we got at the end of the hot water heat up cycle.... good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Rayjsj - 2014-10-21 8:01 PM When My 4E did this, it turned out to be a fuse Blown on the main PCB, wouldn't work on mains or gas... After its pcb-fuse had blown, did your Combi 4E produce the symptoms described in the original posting, or was your heater just ‘dead'? Goneoff’s Combi 6E was functioning normally until recently. Suddenly (with the Rapido motorhome connected to a campsite EHU) the heater no longer worked. When gas operation is selected the heater fails to start. There is a solitary click (possibly the sound of the heater’s gas delivery-valve opening) then the red ‘failure-LED’ on the heater’s control-panel illuminates. The anticipated rapid clicking of the heater’s gas igniters does not occur. Apparently a similar thing happens when 230V operation (and, presumably, ‘mixed’ gas + 230V operation ) is selected. Fault-related advice in the relevant Truma Operating Instructions is as follows: “GAS OPERATION FAULT If a fault occurs during gas operation the red LED on the control panel illuminates. Please consult the Trouble-Shooting list for possible causes. A reset (fault reset) is carried out by switching off, waiting until all LED’s on the control panel have stopped flashing, and then switching the heater on again. If a window to which a window switch has been fitted is opened, the heater stops operating and the red LED flashes. The heater continues operating when the window is closed. ELECTRICAL OPERATION FAULT If a fault occurs during electrical operation the yellow indicator lamp on the power selector switch goes off. Possible causes can be found in the troubleshooting list. If the 230 V power supply is interrupted for just a brief period of approximately 1 second during operation, the heater will subsequently resume as normal." As there’s no need to have a Truma window shut-off switch on a Rapido 9066df, I believe this can be discounted as a possible cause of the problem. (In any case Goneoff should be well aware of whether or not his motorhome has such a switch). It would definitely be worth following Colin’s suggestion to disconnect and reconnect the wiring harness at the Control Panel (and at the Power Selector Switch). I’m guessing that a Rapido 9066df will have an electrical system based on CBE-manufactured components. I would have thought that turning off the main 12V switch on his Rapido’s control panel would fully turn off the heater (this seemed to happen with the C-6002EH heater fitted to my Hobby that had a CBE-made system) and ‘clear’ any temporary fault condition that could be cleared. Goneoff has tried this several times but the fault persists. Photos of 9066df models suggest that the heater is well buried within an L-shaped kiitchen-unit, with a small hatch in the motorhome’s exterior bodywork providing very limited access. I’ve no idea if it would be possible to disconnect/reconnect the heater’s pcbs with the appliance remaining in situ, though (hopefully!) it sould be practicable to replace blown 12V/230V fuses. Unless the heater spontaneously returns to life (or Goneoff is prepared to continue to use campsites for the remainder of his stay in France) it would seem sensible to ask a French Rapido dealership to take a look just in case there’s a simple, cheap solution to the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Derek Uzzell - 2014-10-22 9:30 AM Rayjsj - 2014-10-21 8:01 PM When My 4E did this, it turned out to be a fuse Blown on the main PCB, wouldn't work on mains or gas... After its pcb-fuse had blown, did your Combi 4E produce the symptoms described in the original posting, or was your heater just ‘dead'? Goneoff’s Combi 6E was functioning normally until recently. Suddenly (with the Rapido motorhome connected to a campsite EHU) the heater no longer worked. When gas operation is selected the heater fails to start. There is a solitary click (possibly the sound of the heater’s gas delivery-valve opening) then the red ‘failure-LED’ on the heater’s control-panel illuminates. The anticipated rapid clicking of the heater’s gas igniters does not occur. Apparently a similar thing happens when 230V operation (and, presumably, ‘mixed’ gas + 230V operation ) is selected. Fault-related advice in the relevant Truma Operating Instructions is as follows: “GAS OPERATION FAULT If a fault occurs during gas operation the red LED on the control panel illuminates. Please consult the Trouble-Shooting list for possible causes. A reset (fault reset) is carried out by switching off, waiting until all LED’s on the control panel have stopped flashing, and then switching the heater on again. If a window to which a window switch has been fitted is opened, the heater stops operating and the red LED flashes. The heater continues operating when the window is closed. ELECTRICAL OPERATION FAULT If a fault occurs during electrical operation the yellow indicator lamp on the power selector switch goes off. Possible causes can be found in the troubleshooting list. If the 230 V power supply is interrupted for just a brief period of approximately 1 second during operation, the heater will subsequently resume as normal." As there’s no need to have a Truma window shut-off switch on a Rapido 9066df, I believe this can be discounted as a possible cause of the problem. (In any case Goneoff should be well aware of whether or not his motorhome has such a switch). It would definitely be worth following Colin’s suggestion to disconnect and reconnect the wiring harness at the Control Panel (and at the Power Selector Switch). I’m guessing that a Rapido 9066df will have an electrical system based on CBE-manufactured components. I would have thought that turning off the main 12V switch on his Rapido’s control panel would fully turn off the heater (this seemed to happen with the C-6002EH heater fitted to my Hobby that had a CBE-made system) and ‘clear’ any temporary fault condition that could be cleared. Goneoff has tried this several times but the fault persists. Photos of 9066df models suggest that the heater is well buried within an L-shaped kiitchen-unit, with a small hatch in the motorhome’s exterior bodywork providing very limited access. I’ve no idea if it would be possible to disconnect/reconnect the heater’s pcbs with the appliance remaining in situ, though (hopefully!) it sould be practicable to replace blown 12V/230V fuses. Unless the heater spontaneously returns to life (or Goneoff is prepared to continue to use campsites for the remainder of his stay in France) it would seem sensible to ask a French Rapido dealership to take a look just in case there’s a simple, cheap solution to the problem. Derek, When mine 'Red Lighted' and refused to reset (or do anything) I was a bit concerned because it was still under warranty (I had only had the van 2 weeks and was away on Holiday miles away from the Dealer And... it was November !!). So I got a 'Mobile Truma approved Engineer' to come and look at it, he promptly broke all the plastic tabs holding the PCB cover in place, after half an hours dismantling he showed me a blown fuse that he said he took from the 'mains' circuit board ? He also hinted that BOTH PCB's on my 'NEW' van were possibly downlevel, and that Truma were replacing them ?? When I mentioned this to the dealer at it's first service, I was told this was not true ?? who are you to believe. As I said, It STILL 'red lights' on a regular basis, but so far has reset on a POR. Ray Just 'Re-Read' the OP's description, it's the same, as mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I had not come across the word “downlevel” before. I vaguely recall that in-service problems with Combi heaters arose (something to do with a conflict between the heater’s electronics and the battery-charging equipment chosen by certain motorhome manufacturers?) and that revisions were made to Combi pcbs to counter this. If I remember correctly Truma would replace ‘original specification’ pcbs on a Combi if the motorhome’s owner was having trouble with it and complained, so perhaps that was what the engineer who worked on your motorhome was referring to. As your Combi’s problem’s symptoms were apparently the same as Goneoff’s and fuse replacement fixed your problem, a pcb fuse-failure on Goneoff’s heater looks like a good bet. Let’s hope fuse-checking/replacement is straightforward on his Rapido. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneoff Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Hi and sorry I have been unable to respond or reply to anyone until tonight as for whatever reason I was locked out of the site. So a big thank you to all who responded. Below is an update the current position we are in. After stripping part of the kitchen and obtaining the fault code …_._._ which Truma UK confirmed was a room thermostat issue. They got me to run a few basic tests which didn’t sort the problem. They then gave me the number of the main Truma agent in France. I then rang Truma France who put me in touch with a couple of Truma service agents local where we are staying on the cote d’azure. One was 15 miles away so I got on my push bike to book the van in and when I arrived they were b****y closed and for whatever reason only open three days a week. The exercise did me good although I was p****d off a little with the wasted journey. Today we decided to move pitch on the same site and after moving pitch the boiler fired up!! Don’t know wether it was anything to do with the electrical connection although I tried numerous boiler resets, or the whatever was causing the room thermostat to fail rectified itself; it worked fine on gas so I tried it on electric and it failed; I then tried it back on gas and it failed again. Any suggestion as to the cause would be welcome. But a big thanks for all the contributions which I will now start to read through thoroughly. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneoff Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Hi and sorry I have been unable to respond or reply to anyone until tonight as for whatever reason I was locked out of the site. So a big thank you to all who responded. Below is an update the current position we are in. After stripping part of the kitchen and obtaining the fault code …_._._ which Truma UK confirmed was a room thermostat issue. They got me to run a few basic tests which didn’t sort the problem. They then gave me the number of the main Truma agent in France. I then rang Truma France who put me in touch with a couple of Truma service agents local where we are staying on the cote d’azure. One was 15 miles away so I got on my push bike to book the van in and when I arrived they were b****y closed and for whatever reason only open three days a week. The exercise did me good although I was p****d off a little with the wasted journey. Today we decided to move pitch on the same site and after moving pitch the boiler fired up!! Don’t know wether it was anything to do with the electrical connection although I tried numerous boiler resets, or the whatever was causing the room thermostat to fail rectified itself; it worked fine on gas so I tried it on electric and it failed; I then tried it back on gas and it failed again. Any suggestion as to the cause would be welcome. But a big thanks for all the contributions which I will now start to read through thoroughly. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneoff Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Hi and sorry I have been unable to respond or reply to anyone until tonight as for whatever reason I was locked out of the site. So a big thank you to all who responded. Below is an update the current position we are in. After stripping part of the kitchen and obtaining the fault code …_._._ which Truma UK confirmed was a room thermostat issue. They got me to run a few basic tests which didn’t sort the problem. They then gave me the number of the main Truma agent in France. I then rang Truma France who put me in touch with a couple of Truma service agents local where we are staying on the cote d’azure. One was 15 miles away so I got on my push bike to book the van in and when I arrived they were b****y closed and for whatever reason only open three days a week. The exercise did me good although I was p****d off a little with the wasted journey. Today we decided to move pitch on the same site and after moving pitch the boiler fired up!! Don’t know wether it was anything to do with the electrical connection although I tried numerous boiler resets, or the whatever was causing the room thermostat to fail rectified itself; it worked fine on gas so I tried it on electric and it failed; I then tried it back on gas and it failed again. Any suggestion as to the cause would be welcome. But a big thanks for all the contributions which I will now start to read through thoroughly. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneoff Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Hi and sorry I have been unable to respond or reply to anyone until tonight as for whatever reason I was locked out of the site. So a big thank you to all who responded. Below is an update the current position we are in. After stripping part of the kitchen and obtaining the fault code …_._._ which Truma UK confirmed was a room thermostat issue. They got me to run a few basic tests which didn’t sort the problem. They then gave me the number of the main Truma agent in France. I then rang Truma France who put me in touch with a couple of Truma service agents local where we are staying on the cote d’azure. One was 15 miles away so I got on my push bike to book the van in and when I arrived they were b****y closed and for whatever reason only open three days a week. The exercise did me good although I was p****d off a little with the wasted journey. Today we decided to move pitch on the same site and after moving pitch the boiler fired up!! Don’t know wether it was anything to do with the electrical connection although I tried numerous boiler resets, or the whatever was causing the room thermostat to fail rectified itself; it worked fine on gas so I tried it on electric and it failed; I then tried it back on gas and it failed again. Any suggestion as to the cause would be welcome. But a big thanks for all the contributions which I will now start to read through thoroughly. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 As I said before wriggle and/or unplug/plug in plug that goes on back of control switch plus try same on thermostat. p.s. as a long shot, is the leisure battry charging correctly on mains? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneoff Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Keithl - 2014-10-20 8:51 PM It will be either a 'mechanical' micro switch or a magnetic reed switch (similar to a burglar alarm door switch). Either will be clearly visible on the edge of the window directly above the flue (not necessarily above the heater itself). Keith.Hi and sorry I have been unable to respond or reply to anyone until tonight as for whatever reason I was locked out of the site. So a big thank you to all who responded. Below is an update the current position we are in. After stripping part of the kitchen and obtaining the fault code …_._._ which Truma UK confirmed was a room thermostat issue. They got me to run a few basic tests which didn’t sort the problem. They then gave me the number of the main Truma agent in France. I then rang Truma France who put me in touch with a couple of Truma service agents local where we are staying on the cote d’azure. One was 15 miles away so I got on my push bike to book the van in and when I arrived they were b****y closed and for whatever reason only open three days a week. The exercise did me good although I was p****d off a little with the wasted journey. Today we decided to move pitch on the same site and after moving pitch the boiler fired up!! Don’t know wether it was anything to do with the electrical connection although I tried numerous boiler resets, or the whatever was causing the room thermostat to fail rectified itself; it worked fine on gas so I tried it on electric and it failed; I then tried it back on gas and it failed again. Any suggestion as to the cause would be welcome. But a big thanks for all the contributions which I will now start to read through thoroughly. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 A listing of Combi(E) ‘flash codes’ can be found here http://users.telenet.be/S-cargo/manuals/bcl_769_2_1_0_en.pdf The code you quoted (s,s,s,l,s,l,s,l) is unique and is Number 21 in the listing. 21 Flashcode - s,s,s,l,s,l,s,l Error - Plausibility of NTC room temperature Error information - Room temperature sensor outside tolerance range 1st action - Check cable of room temperature sensor 2nd action - Check (read) / replace room temperature sensor 15°C 16.2 kOhm 20°C 12.6 kOhm 25°C 10.0 kOhm Based on that information I suggest you unplug and reconnect the room temperature sensor (See Joe90’s posting of 10 October 2014 11:07 AM in the following forum thread) http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Truma-6002-EH-230v-Elec-problem/21422/ On Page 16 of the following document, in the “Installing the room temperature sensor” section, there is the warning "The provided room temperature sensor must always be connected, otherwise the heater will switch to fault”. http://dealer.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/34020_09600.pdf So, if unplugging and reconnecting the room temperature sensor does no good, try Joe90’s suggestion to ‘short out’ the sensor by linking together the two two cable-connectors that lead to it. If that revived the heater, it would point to the sensor being faulty. If neither of those ploys has any effect, try unplugging and reconnecting the sensor’s cable at its other end where it connects to the heater’s electronics unit. In the “Electrical connections” section on Page 17 of the same document is a drawing that shows where the room temperature sensor’s cable connects to the heater. As your heater did come back to life on gas (albeit only temporarily) the problem may be a simple thing like a room temperature sensor poor cable-connection, or a fault with the cable (perhaps it was damaged when your motorhome was built?) or the sensor itself being on the blink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneoff Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Derek Uzzell - 2014-10-24 8:30 AM A listing of Combi(E) ‘flash codes’ can be found here http://users.telenet.be/S-cargo/manuals/bcl_769_2_1_0_en.pdf The code you quoted (s,s,s,l,s,l,s,l) is unique and is Number 21 in the listing. 21 Flashcode - s,s,s,l,s,l,s,l Error - Plausibility of NTC room temperature Error information - Room temperature sensor outside tolerance range 1st action - Check cable of room temperature sensor 2nd action - Check (read) / replace room temperature sensor 15°C 16.2 kOhm 20°C 12.6 kOhm 25°C 10.0 kOhm Based on that information I suggest you unplug and reconnect the room temperature sensor (See Joe90’s posting of 10 October 2014 11:07 AM in the following forum thread) http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Truma-6002-EH-230v-Elec-problem/21422/ On Page 16 of the following document, in the “Installing the room temperature sensor” section, there is the warning "The provided room temperature sensor must always be connected, otherwise the heater will switch to fault”. http://dealer.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/34020_09600.pdf So, if unplugging and reconnecting the room temperature sensor does no good, try Joe90’s suggestion to ‘short out’ the sensor by linking together the two two cable-connectors that lead to it. If that revived the heater, it would point to the sensor being faulty. If neither of those ploys has any effect, try unplugging and reconnecting the sensor’s cable at its other end where it connects to the heater’s electronics unit. In the “Electrical connections” section on Page 17 of the same document is a drawing that shows where the room temperature sensor’s cable connects to the heater. As your heater did come back to life on gas (albeit only temporarily) the problem may be a simple thing like a room temperature sensor poor cable-connection, or a fault with the cable (perhaps it was damaged when your motorhome was built?) or the sensor itself being on the blink. Hi Derek It is interesting you say that virtually exactly what the engineer at Truma said; although he said the chances of it being the thermostat its self was very remote and that it was most likely to be either the connection or the sensor cable is damaged, he said usually it is a staple through the cable at time of manufacture which over time has worn and faulted the cable. I’m going to try shorting the thermostat as suggested but will do it after we move off this site on Monday because my gut feeling is the Truma will function correctly. I maybe wrong but will let you know. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 If the heater still refuses to play ball (and assuming that access to the heater allows it) you could also try disconnecting the sensor-cable at the heater end and cross-linking the two connectors on the heater to which the cable attaches. These connectors are numbered 46 on the drawing on Page 17 of Truma’s Installation Instructions. If the sensor’s cable is the culprit then 'shorting out' the room temperature sensor won’t provide a cure, whereas shorting out the cable’s connectors on the heater should simulate the presence of a connected sensor while removing the cable itself from the equation. I’m guessing that your Rapido has the room temperature sensor over the living-area’s entrance door opposite the kitchen-unit in which the heater is housed. If that’s so then the path of the sensor-to-heater cable will be long and convoluted. If it can established that the cable is the cause of the problem, it should be possible to get the heater working on a makeshift basis until you get home and can get the job done properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.