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Omistep Relay Replacement


mikkistash

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Hi guys, I have disconected both pink and blue wires (so they were both not screwd in) and touched the red/green screw and the step would not extend with either.

I extended the step by manually making the connection on the relay and then touched the red/green screw again and the step came in. I did this with both blue and pink wire separately and they both pulled the step in. Should both wires pull the step in???

So am I correct in thinking the switch is ok and it is something else.

Just to add the distance from the pcb/relay to the switch on the wall is about 2ft and I can see all of it so there's isn't an inline fuse or junction box or anything.

Thanks guys.

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Are you sure that there is not a switch on the step itself that tells the board that the step is extended?

 

If there is it could be stuck in the step extended position therefore will not allow the step extend circuit to operate because the board thinks it is already extended. This could possibly explain why both switches retract the step because this is the only thing it thinks it can do.

 

 

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Hi, there is a microswitch on the step but I thought it was working as the step goes out when I manually press the relay and it goes in when I press the switch and turn the ignition on.

Could I test the switch on the step by switching the wires round?? So the step in theory go out but not retract which is the opposite of what happens now?? How can something so simple in theory be so complicated. Lol

I appreciate all the

Help and patience

;-)

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WARNING!!!!!

When working on the step make sure you do not put your fingers in the mechanism unless you are sure it is isolated! Otherwise you may have more serious problems other than the step not working.

 

You really do need a multi meter.

 

First of all operate the step micro switch by hand, you should be able to hear the click of the switch working.

If you disconect the cables that go to the micro switch you can then check that the connection between the terminals as it opens and closes using the multi meter set at resisance. It should go from zero closed circuit and full scale open circuit. If nothing changes the switch is not working. It could be a normaly open switch or a normaly closed switch. Whichever it is if the meter does not change when the switch is operated there is a problem with it.

 

To make sure you have the correct setting on the meter selected, touch the two probes together and the meter should read zero and whenyou move them apart a full scale reading. This effect is the same you should get from operating the switch with the probes connected one to each terminal.

 

Meters vary in the way they work but the above should be somewhere near what you need.

 

 

 

 

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There is a plastic cover where the wires are housed on your step that are linked to the step limit switch. Remove this to check that all the wires are still connected or you could be on a wild goose chase. It's just another area that can be eliminated if all is well.
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Hi guys,

I have attached a picture of the step with the cover off.

The switch with the brown and grey wire is the switch I was on about.

I have a multimeter now so I will take the brown and grey wire off and touch the probes onto each terminal to see what reading I get. I will do this with the step closed and open, is this approach correct?

Cheers.

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I suffered from a step that started working intermittently and then stopped entirely on my Autotrail Arapaho. I tried testing the relays and fuses and had power wherever I expected. No sign of any problem with EM50 pins or fuses.

Together with an experienced engineer we took it to bits and reasssembled to no good effect.

I took it to 2 dealers who were flummoxed.

The second one said (after a week) we can replace the step for £260 plus labour. When I asked if that would be guaranteed to work they backed off. "No we don't know whats wrong.

 

Finally I booked it into Todds Motorhomes in Preston.

They said come back in an hour....

One hour later it was sorted.

Replacement EM50 (refurbed) £52

Plus 2 other jobs and it cost me 1 hours labour.

I was ecstatic :-D

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Hi,

I took the wires off the terminals and with the step down the multimeter went across to the right into the circuit ok section and I then did it with the step closed and the multimeter did not move.

Does that mean the switch is working as it should or is it broke?

As always help is greatly appreciated.

P..s as you will have guessed the multimeter isn't digital.

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mikkistash - 2015-03-03 9:28 AM

 

Hi,

I took the wires off the terminals and with the step down the multimeter went across to the right into the circuit ok section and I then did it with the step closed and the multimeter did not move.

Does that mean the switch is working as it should or is it broke?

As always help is greatly appreciated.

P..s as you will have guessed the multimeter isn't digital.

 

I don't know your location, if you are close I have a spare 20" double Omnistep c/w a limit switch that you could have cheap. It was only used for a short while, I replaced it with a 22" single version. If you are interested PM me.

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mikkistash - 2015-03-03 9:28 AM

 

Hi,

I took the wires off the terminals and with the step down the multimeter went across to the right into the circuit ok section and I then did it with the step closed and the multimeter did not move.

Does that mean the switch is working as it should or is it broke?

As always help is greatly appreciated.

P..s as you will have guessed the multimeter isn't digital.

 

Yes it means the switch is working correctly.

 

When the step is 'Out' the switch is closed allowing the close relay to be commanded when required.

Once the step is 'In' then the switch is opened, the relay released and the power to the motor cut.

 

Hope this makes sense. You now need to find why the 'Close' relay is not being commanded to operate. I really think you need to get someone who understands electric and relays to help you now. Sorry :-(

 

Keith.

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Thanks Keith,

I think you are right regarding a proffessional helping, i am at the limit of my tinkering / diy skills.

I will ask the the alarm fitter if he will look into it when he comes to fit a new alarm.

Looks like i need to get a step from Towsure or GoOutdoors for now!

I know its not the end of the world but things like this bug me, it should work but it doesnt! lol.

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Hi guys,

So i think i have done all i can with all the great help i have had from you all.

Can i just clarify with the experts who have helped me so far are saying the switch inside the door and the microswitch on the step are working as they should based on the findings i have posted?

If that is the case then in your opinions is the relay likely to be the faulty part?

I have found a new relay that matches mine for 1 euro from Holland, is it an easy job to unsolder and resolder a new one in?

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It's me again ;-)

I have put the multimeter on the relay coil terminals, the relay coil that closes the step I get a reading by putting the red and black probes on the left and right terminals and vice versa. This shows the circuit as fine on the multimeter and this also is the reading I get on the relay coil that controls the light.

On the relay coil that sends the step out I only get a reading with the black probe on the left coil terminal and the red probe on the right terminal. I don't get any reading if I put the red on probe on left and black onto the right. I have read a few articals on relays and it says the resistance isn't polarized so you should get a reading no matter what probe is placed on what coil terminal.

Does that still hold true for the relays that are in effect reversing the motor of the step.

Do my findings mean the relay itself is bust and needs replacing?

Cheers.

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When measuring resistance there is no polarity. What you are checking for is continuity, that is if there is a connection between the the two test points it can not and will not make a difference by changing the probes over. The coil is just a piece of wire wraped around a rod testing for resistance does not proove a great deal. The whole coil could be fused together. You need to check if there is voltage at the appropriate terminals when the the swiitches are operated. You need expert advice on this as I said previously I am no expert and just use fault finding techniques and comparing results from one component to another. I would not advice a complete novice to start dibbing in to a circuit board, one false move could do a lot of expensive damage. Would you start checking out circuits inside your computer?

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I would agree with Cliffy. I think you are well out of your depth and you need to stop before you do expensive damage. Go to your nearest MH dealer, or who you purchased it from. An auto electrician would be able to help but do not attempt to replace the relay as judging by your experience this will be disaster and it may not be the problem.

DIY is not always possible.

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Thanks guys I appreciate all your advice.

I was going to get a professional to change the relay as I know I don't have the skills to do it personally.

I just wanted to find out if it was the relay so that I could just say please swap them, money is tight at the moment and as I said before the dealer wants over £100 for a new control box and when I asked if they could fault find why the step wasn't working as might not need a new control box they said it was £66 an hour ex VAT which I just can't afford. And to be honest that is a lot of weekends away in the van the money could be used for.

Could you let me know in simple terms what I need to ask an auto electrician to do / test for.

I will ring round a few places and get some prices as £66 ex VAT is a joke to be honest.

Cheers everyone.

P.S I will not tinker with it anymore.

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If you start a new thread on here asking if anyone could recommend a good auto electrican in your area (You have not completed your profile too give us your location) I am sure you would get some suggestions or someone may even pop round and help if they live local.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi,

Just an update, well the step now works as it should.

Notts county campers soldered a new relay on after testing everything else and deciding it was either the whole unit or the relay. This didn't work so it was the whole unit.

I spoke with camper UK and put my case forward and the work I had done so far and they very kindly agreed to let me buy the the whole unit and if it didn't fix the issue then I could return the unit.

Anyway it was the whole unit and the step now works so I didn't need to return it.

I would just like to say thanks for all your help.

Kind regards

Mick.

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