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Hymercar Sierra Nevada


tfp

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...you can see from the track the length that has been inhibited.

 

I think the OP has a slightly bigger clearance problem, but finding a way of inhibiting the door travel might work (not least because the furniture on the Hymer crosses part of the door aperture).

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tfp - 2016-07-24 6:25 PM

 

I just didn't appreciate the hassle I would be having. I bought new and hymer as i foolishly thought that would protect me from exactly what I'm experiencing.

Mental note - don't buy new and don't believe the salesmen. And I'm starting to hate my van which isn't good as I haven't paid for it yet...

tfp

AS you paid well over the odds in the UK for Hymers you would expect top notch service but the opposite appears to be true.

I have brought two new Hymers never had any problems with service but I don't and wouldn't buy from UK dealers.

 

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Thanks for all the advice. The inhibitor and foam packing sound good ideas.

 

I'll find out for certain tomorrow if its damp but the staining on the roof definately looks like damp.

 

Will see what Tuesday brings.

 

Thanks

 

tfp

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Photo 2 of this Travelworld advert for a red rising-roof Sierra Nevada shows a little better just how far forward the front edge of the small rear window is, while Photo 16 should indicate the value of the window for letting in light to the bedroom area.

 

http://www.motorhomes.co.uk/motorhomes-for-sale/hymer/hymercar/sierra-nevada/1619/#prettyPhoto

 

It’s unlikely that a sliding window can be obtained that would exactly fit into the original opening and not look like a horrid eyesore. Realistically then, the choices are to inhibit the rearwards movement of the sliding entrance-door so that it cannot hit the opened window or prevent the window being opened. With the window being well forward, putting a ’stop’ on the sliding door might mean the reduction in the width of the entrance aperture would become unattractive. (One of the often-mentioned ‘pluses’ of a PVC is the wide sliding-door opening.) Me, I’d probably accept the design-limitation of the window’s position and ‘glue’ the window shut. Something needs to be done though to remove the risk of the door impacting the window as, while the window can be opened and the door can hit it, sooner or later that’s going to happen.

 

I’d also think twice about having the flyscreen removed, as retrofitting a different flyscreen may prove costly and not a great deal better. If it’s possible to DIY-improve the sealing as Colin has done, this may be the best way forward even though it may grieve to take that approach.

 

Probably the best flyscreens suitable for a Ducato are the REMIcare Van type

 

http://www.remimobil.de/en/produkte/insektenschutztueren/remicare-van.html

 

but I’ve no idea how easy retrofitting on a Sierra Nevada would be.

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...with a little more reflection, I've (I think) found the part which restricts the movement.

 

I've fitted a "Stopsy" in the top track which allows the door to be held at an intermediate position, but also allows it to be opened to the full (in my case, constrained) width.

 

When researching this, I came across a "Eurocarry" device, which I thought was the equivalent for the bottom track, but now I can see that it isn't - it is a permanent, single-position constraint.

 

From its shape, and from an eBay picture that shows it clearly unpainted, I (99.9%) believe the device fitted to mine is a EuroCarry Türstopper, viz:

 

http://www.eurocarry.de/schiebetuer-stopper.php?

 

These are readily available from suppliers in Germany for around the €20 mark plus shipping.

 

Whilst fitting one would certainly restrict the sense of the "outdoors coming in" by constraining the door opening, if the opening window is to be retained, it is a cheap and easy resolution (as long as the extent of the door constraint can be accepted).

 

As I suspect the mounting position can be chosen to suit, the OP can test by positioning the door to provide around an inch of clearance (the stop position is very positive), and if this is OK, fit one of these devices at the position that stops the door there.

 

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Thanks for the info. The meeting with Travelworld has been postponed till tomorrow. The technician that I paid to have a look at the damp prior to the meeting stated that the rising roof were probably condensation. However he has no idea how the water stain has got into the roof of the rear of the vehicle. This needs testing under pressure.

 

I'm trying to attach a photo but I am struggling at the moment.

 

Another thing that the technician was concerned about was the fact that the van has a double gas hob but has no upper or lower ventialtion that he could see. Has anyone who has a converted van have ventilation for gas appliances.

 

tfp

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...frankly, the Ducato usually has enough low-level airflow through the hollow members behind the seat-belt mounts to suffice :-)

 

I would normally expect some high-level ventilation, however, and as Colin says, whilst the forward rooflight on similar (though fixed-roof) 'vans is often the non-ventilated type, the rear is ventilated on most.

 

(I've knowingly fitted the seal to mine, as it inhibits all the cr*p that blows in on whilst it's parked on the drive - it just seems to accumulate - I do, however, always open the rear vent at least to the first notch as the first thing we do on site, so I'm not unduly worries about obstructing the original ventilation).

 

I do wonder whether there is meant to be some natural ventilation through the fabric of the rising-roof being "breathable", and whether issues arise from using it with the roof lowered for significant amounts of time?

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tfp - 2016-07-26 9:32 PM

 

...Another thing that the technician was concerned about was the fact that the van has a double gas hob but has no upper or lower ventialtion that he could see. Has anyone who has a converted van have ventilation for gas appliances.

 

tfp

 

It’s the norm for UK-built motorhomes to have ‘gas drop-vent’ holes cut in the floor that will let in air (otherwise known as “draughts”) as well as (perhaps!) let leaking gas out. However I’ve never seen a gas drop-vent hole in the floor of a German-built motorhome.

 

There’s also a tendency with UK-built motorhomes to provide a LOT of ceiling-height ventilation (which, again, can lead to draughts).

 

It’s possible that those factors may have influenced the technician when he commented on the hob and lack of ventilation.

 

My current Rapido has no specific low-level ventilation and neither had my previous Hobby motorhome, though (as Robinhood says) in both cases air is/was able to enter though ‘holes' in the cab.

 

The Rapido has an extractor-fan over its 2-burner hob, but it’s noisy and my wife doesn’t use it often: the Hobby had no hob or vent directly above its 3-burner hob. The Rapido’s front roof windows seem to be fully sealed when closed, though there’s ‘permanent ventilation’ through the Mini-Heki roof window over the rear bed. The Hobby’s large roof window that was near the kitchen-area was only partially sealed when closed, but I added the seals that were ‘missing’ to reduce noise when travelling.

 

As Robinhood suggests, when cooking takes place with the rising-roof lowered, adequate high-level ventilation through the roof’s fabric may take place and Hymercar has taken this into account when designing the vehicle. It would be nice if that were so, but I suspect that (as there’s no skylight in the roof) Hymercar has made no allowance for high-level ventilation for cooking with the roof down. Perhaps the expectation is that Sierra Nevada owners won’t do this!?

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  • 4 weeks later...

I’ve resurrected this thread as there’s a flyscreen-related article in the September 2016 issue of MMM magazine (Pages 175-178) that may be of interest.

 

The article covers a DIY retrofit of a flyscreen to the left-hand-side ‘loading door’ of a RHD Autocruise Tempo panel-van conversion (so not directly applicable to a Hymer PVC) but it does give an idea of what a swine retrofitting can prove to be if the result is to be cosmetically attractive and anti-insect sealing is to be effective.

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Thanks for the link. Hymer have stated they will replace the flyscreen at their factory without charging us and fit it into the actual body of the van. And it looks like the staining on the roof is glue not damp, that has seeped through so that all needs to come off too. So back to germany it goes..

 

tfp

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A welcome reaction from Hymer...

 

If you haven’t already done so, it would be worth you highlighting the potential conflict between the sliding side-door and the side window and asking if Hymer can address this while your motorhome is at the German factory. Given the other problems you’ve had with your new motorhome, Hymer might be prepared to fit (free) the type of ‘stop’ Robinhood mentioned earlier as well as replace the flyscreen and roof-lining.

 

(Will you be taking your motorhome to the Hymer factory yourself? I’ve known Continental European motorhome manufacturers occasionally agree to pay for hotel accommodation when a vehicle has to be returned to the factory for under-warranty repairs and the motorhome’s owner has been prepared to deliver the vehicle to the factory and wait for the work to be done.)

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Derek Uzzell - 2016-08-21 8:43 AM

 

Given the other problems you’ve had with your new motorhome, Hymer might be prepared to fit (free) the type of ‘stop’ Robinhood mentioned earlier as well as replace the flyscreen and roof-lining.

 

 

...the same thing crossed my mind. I suspect it might be possible at full opening without taking the bottom door mount off (access to drill mounting holes for the screws is the issue - once done, deft use of a short screwdriver behind the now part-closed door would be required).

 

The Eurocarry part (since I am convinced it is either that or a clone) should be readily available in Germany.

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Hi Derek,

well we've now found the same staining under the side window - think the glue gun was on overdrive that day. They've got some sorting to do. I will ask re the stopsy as Hymer just won't accept the window is an issue.

 

We've been told that a member of staff from travelworld will be driving our van over to germany. I did wonder if that was the norm. And as we've been warned it might stay for a few months I was considering stopping the insurance during that period.

 

The thing is I wonder how many people will accept the retrofit fly screen not knowing how poor it is.

 

tfp

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Given how quickly motohome manufacturers can construct a new vehicle, it’s difficult to accept how the type of rectification tasks that will be carried out on your Sierra Nevada might involve it being at the Hymer factory for several months.

 

If I were in your position I would not be prepared to have a Travelworld employee driving my motorhome to Germany, nor to lose “a few months” of use when the repair work should be relatively quick to carry out. I’d also be changing my mind about Hymer’s attitude to customer-care!

 

I believe you need to get much tougher with Travelworld about this and maybe contact Citizens Advice on what might be done legally.

 

It would also be sensible to have an exit strategy as, if Hymer/Travelworld insist on the present planl to ferry your motorhome to Germany and for Hymer to hang on to it for an open-ended period, you may want to consider how bad the glue and flyscreen faults are and how much they matter to you and/or affect the vehicle’s value.

 

As long as the staining really is glue and not damp (it’s worrying that the marks have appeared during the time you’ve owned the motorhome and not been present from Square One, which is what one might anticipate if glue were involved) and perhaps something can be done to improve the current flyscreen’s sealing, would it be better to let matters rest than what’s being proposed? As you rightly say, there’s no guarantee that, when you saw your motorhome after the Hymer-factory work had been completed, you’d be happy with the result.

 

 

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tfp - 2016-08-22 7:49 AM

 

 

The thing is I wonder how many people will accept the retrofit fly screen not knowing how poor it is.

 

tfp

 

Cannot comment on the flyscreen on uk side, but the retro fitted one on our van is very effective with the addition of foam strips as per my earlier post, This year was it's first test against midges, a coating of peritherin on the mesh and brush and no midges in the van, can't complain about that..

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.....as has been said, a couple of months is quite a long time (and driving it to Hymer will be quite some added mileage), but, if they are to fit, say, a Remicare, and the original construction was without, I envisage a considerable amount of movement and modification of furniture, and indeed, the floor.

 

Given that your contract is with Travelworld, I'd be looking for some gesture of goodwill from them, if only a few free hab services (if indeed Hymer insist on them on PVCs).

 

(note that the item I have described is a a EuroCarry Türstopper, not a stopsy (or "Stopsy"). I also have the latter, but it performs an entirely different function).

 

It occurs to me that Travelworld might well be fitting the delivery of your 'van to Bad Waldsee by one of their drivers around pick-up of one or more factory demo models, already scheduled for the same, which may account for the timescales. (one would hope they use a transporter for retail models, but maybe they have arranged to put yours on an empty return trip).

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tfp - 2016-08-22 7:49 AM

 

...We've been told that a member of staff from travelworld will be driving our van over to germany. I did wonder if that was the norm. And as we've been warned it might stay for a few months I was considering stopping the insurance during that period.

 

The thing is I wonder how many people will accept the retrofit fly screen not knowing how poor it is.

 

tfp

 

You definitely need to discuss what’s being proposed by TravelWorld with your insurance provider. While a motorhome owner’s insurance policy will often include cover while the vehicle is at a dealer’s premises for servicing/repair, having the vehicle driven by an unidentified 3rd party to Germany, languish in the Hymer factory for a few months and then be returned to the UK via an unspecified method introduces a host of unknowns.

 

Even if you did not ‘freeze’ your insurance policy, there’s every chance your provider would not provide cover for the vehicle while it is in the care of TravelWorld/Hymer unless this had been agreed beforehand with your provider. You should also discuss the insurance issue with TravelWorld, as it’s easy to imagine the complications that could arise if your motorhome were damaged/stolen (you name it) while it’s out of your control for an extended period.

 

Foreign-built motorhomes will occasionally need to be returned to the constructer’s factory for under-warranty work, but I’ve no idea how often UK selling dealerships deliver/recover the vehicle themselves as TravelWorld plans to do.

 

The only instances of foreign ‘factory-return’ I’ve heard about have involved the motorhome’s owner driving his/her vehicle to the factory abroad and waiting for the work to be completed. This mid-2015 MHFacts discussion relates to servicing at the Hymer factory, but under-warranty repairs are also mentioned

 

http://forums.motorhomefacts.com/60-hymer-motorhomes/154314-hymer-factory-servicing.html

 

Regarding the acceptability of the door flyscreen that would be retro-fitted, you’d really need to see an example of the Hymer factory-fitted version to decide how effective that was and then hope that Hymer could retro-fit that type of flyscreen correctly. A things stand, you would not be able to check Hymer’s work until your motorhome had been returned to TravelWorld.

 

You might consider asking TravelWorld to contact the Hymer factory to arrange for your motorhome to be inspected if you took it to the factory yourself. At least then you might be able to see an example of the ‘proper’ flyscreen and get a second opinion on the staining on the roof and under the side-window.

 

Otherwise - once you’ve established the insurance situation with your provider and TravelWorld (get a written statement) - there seems little option but to hand over your prized possession to TravelWorld and emphasise that you want it back as quickly as possible, in perfect order and properly repaired.

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...there is also the question of which "factory" it is going to. My understanding is that the Hymer customer service facility (where workshop repairs are undertaken) is at Bad Waldsee, but, being a PVC, it wouldn't surprise me if the Sierra Nevada actually emanated from the Dethleffs facility at Isny.

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

I've now had my Sierra Nevada for 2 months. We sold our Wellhouse Terrier as we needed a bit of a bigger vehicle with a bathroom, hot water etc whilst keeping it small enough to navigate the Cornish country lanes.

 

We are absolutely delighted with the van. It's well built and well designed. We have the pop top version and thankfully have had no condensation etc. The flyscreen was fitted as standard. There was no drivers side habitation window - despite the problems people have had with this window it is the one option I regret not having as the back of the van can be quite dark.

 

We got ours from travelworld - service was ok (our documentation was not ready in time necessitating a night spent in the car park) - but the staff friendly and polite. I agree that the service was not in keeping with the price of the vans which they sell!

 

So I would recommend the SN without hesitation, and buying through travelworld was fine.

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As per earlier posts, we have a rear sliding window, this year we have had more chance to use the van in winter and this has caused us some problems with condensation on this window running back into van and wetting the bedding. I note that WildAx use a almost identical window and probably has same problem.

The sliding part has a 'bar' inside at lower edge which deflects any condensation outside, the condensation on fixed part of window cannot go anywhere but inside, not the brightest of designs. Since our last outing I've stuck a V shaped rubber moulding along lower half of fixed window and across top of the bar on sliding window, if this works should deflect 80+% of condensation to the outside. With the top hinged windows there a small cutouts in bottom seal which (should) let out condensation.

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