Rust

[bobmaddison]

My CI on a Fiat Ducato is showing signs of rust on the chassis, nothing structural yet but I want to stop it getting any worse.. Does anyone know of a rust killer that actually works without too much prep, given that much is accessible but not with a wire brush. I have tried most of the proprietary brands in the past on cars and they seem to last about 6 moths before the rust comes thru again?

[dougal]

I swear by Waxoyl - mix it with some diesel/solvent and old engine oil to make it go further. Put in on using an old kitchen cleaner container - neat Waxoyl is too thick. It likes a bit of rust to key into. :-D

[keninpalamos]

I've used Waxoyl on my Vito using Waxoyl's pressure pump and spray nozzle. They recommend diluting with white spirit so it sprays without clogging the trigger etc.

[hallii]

Another vote for Waxoil although Dintrol also do a good one. A note of caution, back in the good old days I used to use old engine oil etc to dilute Waxoil, now I am a bit better informed, old engine oil is carcinogenic and an environmental no no. I would use white spirit to dilute and make sure the Waxoil is quite warm.

 

H

[Will86]

Bob

 

THERE IS NO 'rust killer' rust is an oxide of iron, its a chemical reaction when moisture comes into contact with iron, which is part of the structural makeup of a piece of steel. Various chemical additives 'could be' added to the foundry mix to lessen the rusting process but the costs outweigh the making of the part.

 

To 'aid' the elimination of the rust process, treatment would need to be carried out immediately the part was produced. There are a variety of processes.

 

A perfect solution cannot be fully achieved once the parts are assembled and in use.

 

To protect an item for its lifetime is almost impossible. The rust process can be slowed down by continually painting on, one of the advertised brands. An alternative is to saturate the part with used engine oil and keep adding more oil annually. Its smelly and it drips but it works, look at any engine part that's oily.

 

The objective here is to prevent moisture reaching the iron. Once the metal has been 'contaminated' it almost never stops. The chemical reaction is like woodworm, it progresses internally where you cannot see it so while a surface looks healthy it may be ready to fail underneath.

 

Similar reactions occur on aluminium bodies, but the chemistry is different.

 

 

[Graylion]

NEVER EVER USE DIESEL for anything except fuel! It stinks, is very anti-social and may do more damage than it prevents. Only dilute Waxoyl types of rust-proofer with white spirit

[emmerson]

I use Waxoyl on a yearly basis on my Classic Range Rover, and find that there is no need to dilute it if you apply it hot. I use an old Burco electric boiler. Get the water almost boiling, stand the tin in the hot water with the cap removed for about ten minutes. When the Waxoyl is the consistency of water, spray it on generously, let it cool on the metal, then do it again. I use an Aldi cheapo compressor and Waxoyl's own gun. Using the spray tube, get it well inside the panels, using whatever holes you can find. Be generous with the fluid. It will stick to light rust, as long as it isn't flaky. It's a horrible job, but one I find very satisfying.

[aandncaravan]

I am also a Waxoyl fan having first used it on my Austin 1300GT, which tells you how long ago that was.

My previous car had been a Ford Cortina mkII, after which the Austin 1300GT seemed a Sports Car, especially as it had a real Cooper S engine installed. I ended up hanging on to it for many more years than I should have.

Trust me, that car tested Waxoyl to it's limit!!

 

 

Because it is a 'oily' substance it does seem to creep into every crevice driving out moisture, especially when diluted with White Spirit as it is very mobile for some days while the White Spirit slowly evaporates. As noted above, it seems to work well on heavily rusted surfaces. If scratched it 'heals' itself.

 

It can have quite a short life if it is used on areas of high/fast water passage, like wheel arches, as it does seem to get washed off. Especially if it doesn't have time to 'skin over' before being subjected to the Water. But these are the areas that are easy to apply another coat at a later date, or better still treated with a tougher bitumen compound?

 

The areas that were hard to treat on the first application are the areas which by their nature of being inaccessible, do not have the Waxoyl 'washed off', therefore subsequent applications are far easier, quicker and cheaper if you have the vehicle long enough to need subsequent treatment.

 

My Japanese import Mitsubishi GTO had no rust proofing at alI when I bought it. It was imported at 5 years old, 39k on the clock, and luckily had only been in the UK nine months when I then took over ownership.

I had that Waxoyl treated and owned it nearly 9 years. Waxoyl treatment was refreshed at 5 years at which point it still looked really good underneath the car.

It had 165,000 on the clock when I sold it, so had been used a little bit during the time I owned it. Waxoyl obviously still doing it's job.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bulletguy]

hallii - 2017-03-13 10:57 AM

 

Another vote for Waxoil although Dintrol also do a good one. A note of caution, back in the good old days I used to use old engine oil etc to dilute Waxoil, now I am a bit better informed, old engine oil is carcinogenic and an environmental no no. I would use white spirit to dilute and make sure the Waxoil is quite warm.

 

H

Back in those "good old days" it was also easy to find a small independent Garage who would do an underside oil spray for a tenner too!! :-D

 

My van was Dinitrol injected from new and it's certainly worked. All wheel arches are rust free and original........a rare sight on Transits half it's age! The Garage i take it to for MOT also said the underside is the best on a Transit (for year) they've ever seen.

[John52]

Many years ago a guy stepped into his car and put his foot through the floor. Took it into the garage and they said come back in an hour. When he picked it up he found they had fixed it with wooden boards nailed in and creosoted. They were the days (lol)

(although not as dangerous as it sounds because cars had a chassis in those days, the floor wasn't part of the structure)

[Will86]

Its interesting to note that Waxoyl wins over old engine oil ... BUT ... does anyone ever research what is in the make up of the product ... No is likely the answer and the result may be far worse.

 

The word Carcinogenic doesn't frighten me, is lethal we all know in certain forms but I've been amongst the stuff for years, its a matter of learning its make up. It all relates to how its taken into the body, smoking is the biggest hazard where the hot end of a cigarette changes its structure. Painting it onto the underside of a road vehicle is favourable in my view.

 

There are millions of vehicles dropping used oil every day.

 

 

[John52]

I've often found rust beneath underseal or paint, but never beneath oil. So I used oil to rustproof my Rover Maestro which is still on the go after 27 years. But use new oil - you don't need much. Cheap gear oil is best. Used engine oil stinks and it much harder to clean up the inevitable spills.

Clean oil washes out of your clothes easily with modern detergents. Its the black stuff in used engine oil that stains.

[bobmaddison]

Thank you.