Overpressurised water system

[Petros90]

My experience may be handy for someone else with this problem, and I had been unable to find any advice myself.

I bought a van about 12 months ago, knowing it had a leak in the shower room. I removed the sealed-in cover to find there was serious leakage from one of the push-fit pipes. I removed the shower head and tap unit and blanked off the pipes, which temporarily solved the leak. I then checked the dinette sink tap connections which were the jubilee clip type. Unfortunately I managed to break a plastic union in the process of tightening so I had to fit a replacement tap.

Bear with me. A few months on and very little use, and when the pump is switched on the new tap is leaking copiously from the folding swivel. Now then. My previous vans all had very slow, low-pressure pumps. The Shurflo pump is new to me and on this van has always sprung into life as soon as the power is switched on and stays on for several seconds. The force when opening a tap was initially quite a shock, for someone used to the 'turn on and wait scenario' which I always assumed was normal. After closing the tap the pump runs-on for several seconds.

The pump is mounted under the sofa/bed bench seat and due to its location I was unable to see any adjustment - I've now downloaded a generic manual (not available on the Shurflo site, hum), had a look at a couple of YouTube videos and I've found that the pressure is adjustable.

It is obvious that the system is being overpressurised and is breaking down the seals - the push-fit type has given way, also the swivel seals on the folding tap have buckled under the strain. (The push-on  plastic pipe and Jubilee clip style are holding fast.)

I can't believe that motorhome and camper van owners would require this amount of water pressure. How many psi do you need to fill a kettle?

I was going to replace the Shurflo with something less fierce, maybe a drop-in - which would require some wiring to the micro-switches, not a welcome thought. Now I've found that I can adjust the pressure and cure the problem -  unless the pump has another fault. So in the morning  I am going to unscrew the pump (for access) and have a go at adjusting the pressure switch. If it works maybe I can reinstall the original shower tap fitting.

I believe that the pump was not adjusted correctly on installation - the conversion was less than two years old and the problem was apparent when I bought the van.

Fingers crossed. I'll let you know.

For the record - the van is a PVC, here are the pics from the Protfolio  (sic): http://www.evanscampers.co.uk/index_gallery.htmlThe shower-head is in the unit in the last but one pic, the whole of the front was sealed in. It was the company's first conversion, I believe - 'Project 1'!

 

 

[Keithl]

Hi Pete,

 

First thing, the adjusting screw on a Shurflo pump does not adjust the pressure that the pump delivers, it merely adjusts the cut-off pressure of the microswitch.

 

It sounds like you have the wrong pressure rated pump fitted. Shurflo pumps seem to be available rated at 10, 20 or 30 psi. Have a look here...

 

https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/water/caravan-water-pump/shurflo-pumps/shurflo-trail-king-pump-series-spare-parts

 

You will need to read the label on your existing pump to see what the converter fitted and if a high rating pump was fitted then replace with a lower rating pump.

 

Keith.

[Derek Uzzell]

(I note that Keith has covered some of the following...)

 

These links provide generic advice about SHURflo leisure-vehicle water pumps.

 

http://www.holdsworth.vwt4camper.info/SHURfloWaterPumpInstallationAndOperationManualT4WM.pdf

 

http://shurflo.com/images/files/pdf/troubleshooting-guide/SF_PumpTroubleShoot.pdf

 

The SHURflo 12-volt pump fitted to European-built motorhomes will normally come from the Trail-King range. All Trail-King pumps are technically similar, the primary difference being the flow-rate and pressure. As you’ll see from this link

 

https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/water/caravan-water-pump/shurflo-pumps/shurflo-trail-king-pump-series-spare-parts

 

the flow-rate/pressure can vary from 7 litre per minute/20psi for the least powerful pump (commonly fitted to motorhomes) right up to 10litres per minute/45psi. If the latter pump were to be inadvertently used with a water-system designed with the former pump in mind, there’s every chance that problems would result. So the first thing for you to confirm is which SHURflo pump your motorhome has.

 

The flow-rate and pressure are built into a Trail-King pump’s design and cannot be significantly altered. (For example, it’s not possible to reduce, say, a 45psi pump’s pressure to 20psi, or increase a 20psi pump’s pressure to 45psi). What can be altered is the sensitivity of the pump’s ‘shut-off switch’ that controls when the pump starts and stops and (as mentioned in the SHURflo instructions) can be adjusted to address ‘rapid cycling’ - but playing about with the shut-off switch’s setting won’t significantly alter the pressure produced by the pump.

 

Thousands and thousands of motorhomes are fitted as standard with SHURflo Trail-King pumps (all three of mine had 7litres per minute versions) and many of those motorhomes will have a water-system with John Guest-type push-fit joints (two or my mine had that type of joint). There will also be a wide variety of tap employed (one of my motorhomes had a ‘folding’ kitchen-sink tap). Some of those vehicles will undoubtedly have had water-system leakage problems involving push-fit joints (see following link)

 

http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=31&TopicID=236887

 

but I’ve yet to hear that the cause of the problem turned out to be was ‘over-pressurisation’ by the water-pump. The reason that you’ve been unable to track down information/advice about ‘over-pressure’ problems is simply because they do not occur.

 

 

 

 

[Petros90]

Hi Keith,

Thank you for that, I hadn't expected such a quick response. Today I was able to experiment - it appears that adjusting anticlockwise raises the cut-off pressure point and clockwise increases it, as you say it doesn't adjust the water pressure itself.

The pump is a Shurflo Trail King 12V 20psi 7L/min, type 2095-204-412.

I checked the tap I had bought to replace the broken original - it's a microswitched Comet London, 'not suitable for pressurised systems'. I bought this as a quick fix not knowing the difference.

So the pump being OK, the first step seems to be to buy a tap suitable for pressurised systems.

The other fault, the shower mixer connection leak, is a different issue which I think Derek addresses.

Thanks again - I really appreciate your help.

Pete

 

 

[Petros90]

Hi Derek,

Thanks, that's really helpful. I was able to check a few things out today. After checking the pump details (see my response to Keith above) I hauled the old tap and shower fittings out and both are the microswitched type. The main connections to the water supply are rugged enough but the tail connections into the body are retained purely by an O-ring and that's it. I'm not a qualified engineer but to me this type of connection does not seem to be designed  to withstand 20 psi.

I checked my replacement sink tap online and I found that it is 'not suitable for pressurised systems' - something that I wasn't aware of at the time I bought it, I had assumed that as the shower mixer was also switched it would be OK.

The pump (and pressure switch) is working and is a standard spec (20psi), the van was the first project by the  converter ('Project 1') so  I'm surmising that the wrong type of taps were fitted from new. (The shower tap connections were actually sealed-in and inaccessible, I literally had to break-in to access them.) I'll attach a pic of the taps.

On this basis it would seem the pump is OK and the way forward is to buy the correct type of taps (which will fit the hoses and mounting holes).

The basin, sink and hoses look to be a standard spec, so I'm guessing this shouldn't be a problem.

This seems to be the answer to the original problem, thanks again, it'sd saved me from going down a blind alley ... !

Regards,

Pete

 

[Derek Uzzell]

Your comment about the Comet “London” tap is interesting.

 

This range of taps is widely marketed and it’s not uncommon to see it recommended for use with a SHURflo-type diaphragm water-pump as well as the submersible variety. (The following link is an example.)

 

https://clearcutconversions.co.uk/product/comet-london-tap-hot-cold/

 

Comet is a well-established reputable manufacturer of leisure-vehicle taps and it’s only when one refers to their website that it becomes evident that the London plastic taps (plus the Arona, Prestige and Novo-Super ranges) have a 1.5bar (about 22psi) maximum pressure limit.

 

https://www.comet-pumpen.de/en/products-rv/fittings/made-of-plastic/taps/london.html

 

Even when a 20psi SHURflo pump is fiitted, pressure in the water-pipework and at the taps will rise well beyond that pressure when water is heated, so (as you’ve pointed out) these taps are clearly unsuitable for pressurised water systems.

 

 

 

[Keithl]

(Keith - I've rewritten history ;-) )

 

 

Pete,

 

As I understand you do not need micro switched taps with a Shurflo pump, can you find better alternatives without micro switches?

 

Keith.

[Petros90]

Hi Derek,

I found the ad;

 

http://www.rainbow-conversions.co.uk/taps/comet-london-single-tap.html

 

- I checked other suppliers, Rainbow Conversions are the only ones who state that these taps are unsuitable for pressurised systems.

I've skimmed some more suppliers, so far I haven't found any taps specifically for pressurised systems - in fact the Practical Caravan 'Guide to Caravan Water Pipes and Pumps' article actually states 'Some replacement taps – like my lever-operated mixer tap from Whale – are supplied with pre-connected cables that are ready to couple-up with a caravan’s wiring. However, you are not obliged to use these because this type of tap can also be operated in conjunction with a pressure switch that has been installed in the supply pipes.'

Well now, I think this is just a touch misleading. This is just not my experience. The switched shower tap was leaking from the tail-to-body connections, which like I said is just a push-in plastic pipe held in by an o-ring, and easily pull-outable. Currently the Comet London mixer tap I installed in the sink is constantly dripping a stream of water from the spout (with pump on and tap turned off), it's had very little use from new. OK it was 'inexpensive' - around £20 - in comparison to other offerings from Reich and Whale,  but these appear to have similar tail-to-body joints and I'm just a little bit reluctant to shell out around £150 for shower and sink taps from the likes of them without some kind of guarantee that the seals aren't going  to break down.

I think my best bet may be to stop searching for these online and find a local supplier - or more likely Rainbow Conversions who at least may know what they're talking about -  I can talk to about my specific problem. It'd very frustrating. I'd consider installing a drop-in pump and connecting up the microswitches, that way I presumably wouldn't have a constantly pressurised system, of course I'd have to route and conceal wires across the van into the shower room.

 

 

 

 

 

[Petros90]

Hi Keith

Yes! of course he meant tap - I didn't even spot it, and me a proofreader in a former life.

As for the rest, I refer you to my answer to Derek.

As an intellectual challenge it's sort of interesting, and a good fight to win, but when you want to use the van it's a pain in the a**e

Pete

 

[Derek Uzzell]

Logically, the 1.5bar pressure limit specified by Comet for their plastic ‘budget’ taps is too low for a water-system that incorporates a diaphragm water-pump controlled solely by the pump’s pressure-sensing switch. There is the possibility to control a diaphragm water-pump via water-outlet micro-switches and this was the set-up on my Hobby motorhome. There are advantages to this arrangement and the pressure within the water-system should be less, but there’s significantly more complexity (eg. the wiring needed from the outlets to the pump) and the pressure increase within the system when water is heated still needs to be considered. Having said that, I suspect that there will be many, many Comet ‘cheapo’ taps happily coping with SHURflo-type pumps despite the 1.5bar limit, so I think you’ve just been unlucky with your tap.

 

Comet offers the “Florenz” range of plastic taps

 

https://www.comet-pumpen.de/en/products-rv/fittings/made-of-plastic/single-lever-mixers/florenz.html

 

that have a 3.0bar pressure-limit and are not too expensive. These are often fitted to SMEV sinks and my Hobby’s sink had a Florenz tap.

[monique.hubrechtsgm]

john guest fittings are original designed for pneumatic applications . Not for water pressure. Chausson used it as a waste tank drain valve inboard under the body. A nightmare if you do not understand the close and open position. Their is also a extra tension tool. That fitting either on air or water i will never see again in a motorhome.

[Petros90]

Hi Keith

Where do you get your figure of 3.0 bar from, as it's nowhere to be found in the Comet literature? And, was your Florenz connected to a 20psi pressurised system.

But thanks again. Each effort sheds some more light on the issue, although it does seem to be going round in a circle.

From the link you gave to the Comet site, I have identified my original sink tap as a Comet Florenz 'Finger'. It has a broken plastic tail (short barbed solid plastic - the red one in my previous pic ) which I can source from Leisuredirect for the princely sum of £1.78, and refit the tap. However this does not address the original problem which was that the tap was weeping, either from the pipe-to-tail connection or the tail-to-body connection. I strongly suspect the latter, as there is but a tiny 'O'-ring and a screwed-in piece of plastic  to resist the minimum 20psi.

Alternatives - I've experienced Whale taps before and I'm not impressed. I had a snoop at the Reich taps which appear to be of similar construction to the Comet. The Florenz assembly looks to my mind to be flimsy and poorly designed. Heavier-duty sealing rings and a much stronger retaining method for the tail-to-body fit  would stand a better chance of resisting the water pressure, if we have to have the system permanently pressurised.

Bearing in mind that the plastic pipes have to be heated up with a hot air gun to get them of and on in a confined space I'm rather inclined to Araldite/Sugru/silicone the tail in place before re-fitting, and see what happens.

On to the shower fitting. This time the tails are flexible plastic, the water connection ends are solid brass however the tail-to-body connection is merely a push-fit, held in place by a tiny 'O'-ring! You can easily pull them off by hand. There are recesses in the tail end for a piece of plastic to hold them securely to the body, but there is no room available on the body for this. Useless - at least for the purpose of being used in a permanently pressurised system. No room for any decent amount of resin bond either so it looks like I need a complete replacement.

Reich give max pressure figures in bar for their fittings. I wasn't able to call any stockists today. I can sort the sink tap myself, but I will definitely have to actually speak to someone who sells this stuff on Monday. There are fittings which state tey can handle up to 6 bar and this may be the way to go for peace of mind: I come back to my previous remark about 'how many psi do you need to fill a kettle?' and I have no idea why a pressurised system would ne needed in a caravan, campervan or mororhome.

Which brings me back full circle really. It appears that the pressurised system is a cheaper option for the installer as he doesn't have to bother with complex wiring. As you say the microswitched system seems to be a better solution, as thesystem is not permanently pressurised and given the rather high output of the standard pumps and the flimsiness of the fittings it would appear that the original title of my post is correct and the system is indeed overpressurised.

 

 

[Petros90]

Hi Monique, interesting post. However the John Guest thing is a red herring. The problem is not with any of the speedfit / pushfit / John Guest or whatever you want to call them plastic plumbing fittings, but more in the design and construction of the tap fittings, their connection to the water supply, and the unnecessary static pressurising of a campervan's water system.

The  John Guest company who invented the Speedfit design was indeed involved in pneumatics as well as water dynamics but the concept was about tube coupling. It's an excellent design but not always suitable for every application. I've installed them in houses myself, think that correctly installed they're fine in vans. It's a coupling system, rather than a dedicated valve, so it may be that you've had a bad experience with a valve mounted this way. You do need a special tool to remove them though. Thanks.

 

[Derek Uzzell]

Petros90 - 2017-03-17 7:54 PMHi Keith

Where do you get your figure of 3.0 bar from, as it's nowhere to be found in the Comet literature? And, was your Florenz connected to a 20psi pressurised system.

The pressure-limit is stated in the first paragraph of the Comet “Florenz” webpage I provided a link tohttps://www.comet-pumpen.de/en/products-rv/fittings/made-of-plastic/single-lever-mixers/florenz.html"The mixers are also available with microswitch (up to 6 A). To use with water pressure up to 3 bar. Especially for the use in sinks which are can be closed with a glass or other material lid (overall height of 40 mm).”The SHURflo pump fitted to my Hobby motorhome was the same Trail-King model as yours (7 litre flow-rate/20psi) but - for some reason known only to Hobby - water-outlet micro-switches turned the pump on and off. The pump’s own pressure-switch only used to operate during showering when the water-flow was high and continuous. The Hobby arrangement of marrying a diaphragm water-pump to water-outlet micro-switches is unusual and, although this will result in a lower pressure throughout the water-system when the outlets are turned off, normally micro-switches will not be used with a diaphragm pump and the water-system will be ‘held’ at whatever pressure the pump is designed to produce. 3.0bar is about 44psi, so a Florenz “Finger” should have the internal capability to handle a continuous pressure of 20psi, with 24psi ‘in reserve’ for a pressure-increase during water heating. I note that you originally said that the tap was leaking at its folding swivel and subsequently from its spout, which is why I suggested you had been unlucky and obtained a defective tap.A diaphragm water-pump simpifies water-system design and installation as it avoids the electrical cabling needed with a micro-switch system, avoids the micro-switches themselves that have no great reputation for longevity, avoids the need for a non-return valve in the pipework and avoids having the pump (often inaccessibly) within the water-tank. A diaphragm pump is also self-priming, can provide a high flow-rate for showering, and can ‘lift’ water a significant height which is advantageous if the tank is external. There are lots of Good Things going for the type of system in your motorhome, but if you want to revert to the "very slow, low-pressure pumps” you’ve had previously, that’s your choice.If a diaphragm pump is chosen by a motorhome converter and appropriate water-outlets, hoses and connectors are installed, the system has the potential to be problem-free for many years. It seems to me that your complaint is not so much with the concept of a water-system based on a diaphragm pump, but with the connections to the water outlets. While it might be nice to have ‘domestic quality’ outlets in leisure-vehicles, the reality is that the outlets your motorhome has are the norm and (most of the time) they are well up to the job.

[monique.hubrechtsgm]

These JG push fittings are very critical to their blue cold pipe outside diameter. Their metal toots have to penetrate the plastic pipe by hand push whit some force. If not sufficient and having a leak you can use the tool to penetrate more in to the tube. This is not a removal tool. If used on- off regularly it a design misfit. As ring on the chausson above as a waste drain valve. Working at relative low water pressures motor home builders are not capable to supply a lasting plumbing system. To remove the shower mix valve you have to remove the complete panel. And to replace the screws in the right holes and their plastic caps of which their are a hundred in your motor home needs some craftsmanship. Have some spares of them whit you. And there is a o-ring in the JG. And always carry whit you some good glue and strong tape to take soft parts together.Any way nice talking to site members who are aware of their equipment installed.On the other hand your system is very vulnerable to frost of left liquid in the shower. Fill your water tank whit anti poison anti freeze glycol and spool the system whit it. Repeat as necessary.

[Derek Uzzell]

monique.hubrechts@gm - 2017-03-18 4:54 PM

 

...Fill your water tank whit anti poison anti freeze glycol and spool the system whit it. Repeat as necessary.

 

This anti-frost-protection method is commonly used for American RVs (and in boats) but it would be interesting to know how many owners of European-built motorhomes employ the technique. Clearly you don’t want to fill the vehicle’s fresh-water tank with potable antifreeze as a) the stuff’s not cheap and b) you really only want the antifreeze in the vulnerable parts of the water system. And, of course, the antifreeze should be drained from the system before fresh water is reintroduced.

 

I’m guessing that most UK motorcaravanners drain down as best they can and then live in hope! An alternative approach is drain down as normal and then expel any water remaining in the system using compressed air. This product is designed to do this

 

http://www.keepfloeing.com/products-motorhome.html

[monique.hubrechtsgm]

It is used in all Nordic countries. It has also a cleaning and anti corrosion effect as glycol . I have a outside shower connection on the wall for my dogs whit a spring assisted shut off valve pushed in and spring released by hand to pull out.There is all the time brown rusty water in the locker and a brown spray when used at the beginning. How? come? There should be no rusty metal parts there. Any users of the same problem I try to upload a picture of this product it has light purple colour. And no more rusty water. Besides i never drink from the water tank unless stacked in the Sahara desert. Purple rain, purple rain :$

 

[Petros90]

Hi Derek

Sorry yes I  missed the 3.0 bar spec in the preamble. OK, I've taken all your points on board. I'm going to replace the broken tail on the sink mixer and talk to someone about a replacement shower mixer, and see how that goes.

Many thanks for taking the time and trouble to explain in such detail  the workings and rationale of motorhome water systems.

I'll get on it and keep you updated with progress.

 

[Petros90]

Hi Monique

Just a quick check that we are not talking at cross purposes - the JG Speedfit connections I am used to are these
http://tinyurl.com/mb889bathere are some similar on my system but they don't cause a problem.

What caused the original problem is the tail-to-body fit of the shower mixer connections, pic attached. There is a small 'O'-ring in a groove on the nylon(?) part that fits into the body, with a small steel bar insert that holds it in against water pressure, in theory at least.

This is the component that failed (leaks), and it is hard to understand how it could stand up to continuous pressure of 20psi when  the pipes are so easily pulled out by hand.

The other type if fitting is shown in one of my posts above and is the hard plastic 'barbed' push-fit type, this connection is very common in camper vans and it is the very devil to get some water pipes to fit over them , I use an artist's precision heat gun.

[monique.hubrechtsgm]

Better to have cross sectional drawings of these fittings to see the water seals. The shower mix valve has a swivel too. In form of a knee. Down and up. 180 degrees. Never saw a t-piece in that color . Is it original marked Jg?

[Derek Uzzell]

The 'push-fit’ connectors used in motorcaravans can come from several manufacturers and - for UK-built motorhomes - it’s likely that the fittings will be “John Guest” or “Whale” products.

 

https://www.caravanaccessoryshop.co.uk/category/12mm-push-fit-fittings/241?page=2#products

 

http://www.whalepumps.com/rv/plumbing.aspx

 

I think my Rapido’s sink, wash-basin and shower water-outlets are from the Comet ‘brass’ ranges (10bar water pressure) and they attach to semi-rigid plastic water pipes via flexible braided-metal tails. Reich “Uniquick” push-fit connectors are employed throughout the motorhome’s water-system.

 

http://reich-web.com/en/products/pipe-systems/

 

The semi-rigid pipework itself may be single-colour or ‘striped’

 

https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#tbm=shop&q=caravan+semi+rigid+water+pipe+images&*

 

It should be evident from the above that, when a motorhome converter chooses to fit a SHURflo Trail-King water-pump, there are plenty of possibilities for variation in the rest of the water-system. It’s unrealistic to argue that a SHURflo 20psi pump will always result in a motorhome’s water-system being 'over-pressured’ - provided that suitable water-outlets, pipework and connectors are used and installation is carried out properly, there should be no problems. It’s certainly the case that some water-outlets will be more robust (and more expensive) than others, and I’ve known connectors fracture, but that’s not the SHURflo pump’s fault.

[Petros90]

PARTIAL RESOLUTION!

I haven't been able to do anything more 'til now due to work and house issues, but I have had some success with the leaks and gathered more knowledge of this area.

Shower tap:

The photograph I posted previously of the shower fitting shows it is a type where the tails are secured by a pin through the body - note there is a groove in the white nylon tail assembly showing. This is the retaining groove for the pin and therefore should NOT be visible (I was able to pull them out by hand). The tap itself is extremely difficult to fit/remove, there being two tails, two wires and the shower hose to get the securing nut over in a very confined space at the back of a corner sink. You can only use one hand to do this.

Given that: the conversion was only a year old; the vanity unit was completely sealed with silicon;  there were score marks on the nylon tail fittings; the previous one-owner had few DIY skills and the conversion was 'Project 1' by the converter, I reluctantly conclude that the installer removed the tails by forcibly pulling them off without removing the pinand then just pushed them back in once the tap had been fitted. This would make tap installation a whole lot easier.

I removed the pin, pushed the tails all the way into the body , replaced the tap assembly, connected up to the water supply, tested, it's now leak-free.

I will at some point contact the converter (Evans Campers) to warn him that he may be employing a dodgy fitter.

Sink tap:

My replacement Comet London mixer, leaking copiously from swivel and mixer handle under a continuous 20psi from the 'low pressure' Shurflo Trail King pump was removed and scrapped. (No indication of pressure handling had been given by the retailer, but on a couple of other sites the info is that it's not suitable for pressurised systems and can handle up to 1.5 bar. 20 psi is about 1.4 bar. Tut-tut.)

I purchased from the same retailer a new tail to replace the one I had broken trying to fix the leak on the old tap (it took some time / emails to arrive, in the end I received two) fitted it, it leaked, removed it, packed the tails with Sugru, replaced it, it leaked but a bit less this time, removed it, cleaned off the Sugru, packed the tails with Sikaflex, replaced it, it leaked but a bit less this time, removed it and decided to buy a new tap. (Araldite may have succeeded but by this time I was getting rather too expert at removing and replacing tap fittings for my liking.)

There are a couple of suitable replacements size-wise on  the Leisureshopdirect site.

The sink is a Smev with a fold-down lid so I'm fairly restricted for choice. I won't be buying a SMEV AC539 which is probably the original one that leaked and I haven't any confidence in the way the tails are held in by a piece of nylon and a couple of screws.

Reich go on about quality and reliability and so do their stockists so I shall try one of their offerings for a similar cost to the Comet London, they can allegedly handle 6 bar so we'll see. I'll order one tomorrow and let you know in due course what happens, but I don't see there should be a problem.

Conclusions

Exercise care when buying a van from a small converter. There is a reason why the big brands - think Auto Sleepers and Swift - are successful and why they hold their value. These things have been thought through and usually are well executed. (I've discovered other shortcomings - e.g. the 3-way fridge does not appear to be connected to the gas ... )

Trust your own judgement. For some time I carried on thinking that the shower fitting tails were fitted correctly - a blind alley. I was about to spend around £90 on a replacement. I wouldn't have believed a fitter could have been so incompetent as to fit a tap so badly (and then seal it in). Ascertain the correct spec of the part you want. Maybe give the stockist a ring before purchasing a part, I didn't, it's possible that the subject of pressure would have come up, the salesperson may have been able to warn me of the low pressure handling of the Comet tap.

Well - what a learning curve this has been, many thanks to Derek Uzzell for taking part and giving advice and information and also keithl and monique for their contributions. (I still maintain that having a constantly pressurised water system is not a good idea, especially given that 20psi appears to be considered 'low pressure'.)

[Derek Uzzell]

Petros90 - 2017-07-12 5:55 PM

 

...There is a reason why the big brands - think Auto Sleepers and Swift - are successful and why they hold their value. These things have been thought through and usually are well executed....

 

Hah!!! ;-)

[PJM]

I purchased a replacement kitchen mixer tap from Toolstation for under £30, just needed to swap over the tap tails although i subsequently found out that adaptors are available to enable push fittings to be used.