eddieandsue Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 I've followed Richards very helpful instructions re above, but when dismantling frame, our Burstner flyscreen is held together with pop rivets! Have drilled them out to separate frame but have no idea what pop rivets or indeed what tool I need to put the pop rivets back when I reassemble the screen. Having never used a pop rivet gun before, I'm brain dead trying to understand- do I need a blind rivet or another sort. Also what gun do I need? I know the head is 4mm and the hole is about 2mm but can't get my head around what side pop rivet to buy. There are 8 rivet holes holding the frame together. Is there anything else I can use instead of rivets? Bearing in mind the frame is plastic. Hope some one out there can understand what I'm rabbiting on about. Thanks Sue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Halfords do a Hand Riveter Kit with easy instructions. Included in the kit are 4 different sizes of rivets. The one you require is probably the 3.2 size although the head is only 7mm diameter compared with the original head diameter of 11mm. All rivets are installed "blind" as far as I am aware. I'm also in the process of restringing the Horrex habitation door blind. I hope you've only removed the side rivets. The reason being, one of the rivets on the bottom horizontal rail also acts as a pivot point for the bottom string. I'm going to reassemble my screen using the rivets provided in the Halfords kit. Will86, allegedly knows all about rivets so perhaps he may be able to provide a more definitive response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Sue, Ask around your neighbours and friends if anyone has a pop riveter, it would be far simpler than buying one and its owner would probably be more versed with using it than you as a total novice. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddieandsue Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Hi Robbo, too late!! I've already drilled the bottom rivets out as well. Have now got to work out how I can put a rivet in again whilst the thread is looped around it! Am going to try a new rivet with a washer and see if that works. I had to buy the thread from China because Beads Direct are out of stock. Unfortunately the Bailey used 1.5 mm yet the Burstner only has 1mm so my thread is now too thick to go through the tiny hole at the bottom. Have improvised with a knot, hope it holds! Note to any prospective flyscreen repairers - check the size of the thread first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Don't worry, I did the same think - drilling out the bottom rivet. Like you, I'm going to use a washer (same internal diameter as the rivet bore). I'm going to do a trial and let you know if it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddieandsue Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Hi Robbo Have you had any luck with the trial rivet and washer for the cord to go round? I wish you could buy a smooth screw with a washer and a nut, it would be so much easier!! Sue (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 The rivet and washer method doesn't really work because the length of pop rivets you can buy off the shelf aren't really long enough. I'm going to experiment with a screw and double nut solution. In other words, the screw head would lie just below the slider track then a gap in the screw thread (for the cord) and a nut. Another nut would secure the other side of the frame. Best to remove the brush stuff when doing this and replace before you rivet the other end. The cord at the screw doesn't actually move but you could wrap the screw thread with PTFE tape if you were concerned. My bottom track is supported on a 30mm high wooden spacer unit, so the protruding nut from the bottom of the bottom track can be accommodated within the wooden spacer unit by drilling an appropriate hole. Hope this all makes sense. Best of luck. PS. I think the article in the MMM mag was for a slightly different screen, secured at the corners with self tapping screws - much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Hi eddieandsue I guess your flyscreen is the same as mine with a plastic frame but with aluminium bottom track. If so, you could use a self tapping screw to drill into the aluminium track to form the pivot point for the bottom cord system. My plastic top track has the pivot point located 30mm from the end. So, you could locate the self tapping screw at the same position on the bottom track. The right angle aluminium corner brackets are 25mm long so you'll miss them with 5mm to spare. You'll probably need to alter the sliding end anchor point a tad to compensate for the revised position of the pivot point. Anyway, that's what I'm going to do. I decided to disgard the nut and screw method because of the restricted depth in the extrusion below the sliding track. Hopefully I'll have it all sorted this weekend. PS. By the way, I used 1mm diameter fishing line for my replacement cord. It's got quite a slippery surface so should slide OK but more difficult to tie-off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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