Brock Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 No water at taps or toilet. Slight whining noise from pump (nothing like the norm). Is this likely to be the fuse or the pump? If it's the fuse is that the 'pumpe' 7.5 amp fuse on the EBL 29 on my 2013 Hymer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevec176 Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 If you are hearing a noise/vibration from the pump when you turn a tap on and it stops when tap is turned off that indicates pump is working but not properly. There's either a blockage or the pumps had it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 If it's a submersible pump (normal in Hymers) then lift the access lid (usually a hole in the floor under the carpet) and unscrew the lid from the tank. You should then be able to pull the pump out and check for a secure connection to the delivery pipe and feel vibration when the microswitch in the sink tap is open. A pipe blockage is unlikely so if in doubt buy a new pump and swap over. Make sure you get the right sort. They are by no means unreliable but I always carry a spare pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Yes on the Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 29 the 'Pumpe 7.5a fuse' over on the far right is the fuse you are looking for. Remove and check the fuse is secure and looks ok as it might be causing reduced volts to the pump, but agree with those above, if the pump is 'groaning' it's more likely to be a pump issue. Might be worthwhile checking you do have a full 14v at the pump when you locate it? Whatever you do, suggest you don't fit a higher capacity fuse as it may cause internal PCB track damage. Sometimes when the pump starts showing sins of failure it may draw higher current and if the fuse has been uprated above the limits of the Elektroblock PCB, the PCB will be the item that suffers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YorkshireGlobecar Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 If you can hear the pump working it is not the fuse. It must be either a k#####red pump or the water supply hose that connects to the pump has come off. A blockage in that pipe is unlikely unless the system has been filled with dirty water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agaric Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Air in the pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Or no water in the fresh-water tank? ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Sorry for lack of update. Poor internet connection for posting a reply. Worked through responses except air in pump. Did check I had water because we have left open the drain plugs once before! Fairly sure it's the pump now. On full facilities CL now and parked next to tap so surviving. Will check for air in pump tomorrow. Thanks for being responsive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keninpalamos Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 I know how you feel. (Internet) anyway the pumps Hymer use are Riech usually with the Hymer name on. They are the submersible type which are self bleeding so there should not be any air in the pump and if the pump is in good condition air must be getting into the system elsewhere. If it is the pump, replace it with a Reich Twin 19 litres, min pressure being 1 bar or very close. About £40 on ebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Brock - 2017-07-10 7:51 PM Fairly sure it's the pump now. John, Is it a submersible pump as previously suggested? If so can you remove it from within the tank and test it in a bucket of water without the MH plumbing attached? Possibly hold a finger partly across the outlet to test it pumps at a pressure? It seems strange that the pump is making a noise but you are not getting any water flow so my thoughts are you have a restriction upstream or downstream of the pump rather than the pump itself being at fault. I would want to 100% rule out the pump before replacing it. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 My recommendation for a submersible pump would be a Comet VIP, 20 litres/min and 1.1 bar and about £25. Very reliable, so long as they are not allowed to 'pump air' when they overheat and can burnout quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 I’d expect Brock’s Hymer to have the Reich 19-litre Twin submersible as original equipment. This ump has an ‘automatic vent’ - so SHOULD self-bleed of any air in it when starting up - and is normally marketed with a non-return valve on its outlet. I’m not sure if the Coment pump Allan mentions has a non-return valve as standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keninpalamos Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Derek Uzzell - 2017-07-11 7:01 AM I’d expect Brock’s Hymer to have the Reich 19-litre Twin submersible as original equipment. This ump has an ‘automatic vent’ - so SHOULD self-bleed of any air in it when starting up - and is normally marketed with a non-return valve on its outlet. I’m not sure if the Coment pump Allan mentions has a non-return valve as standard. A non return valve, like the Reich can be optional and exactly the same valve I keep a Comet as a spare for the Hymer. A good little pump and yes, hook the the pump up to a 12v supply via the 12v fly lead on the pump attach a short piece of hose to the outlet and immerse in water. It should do close to 19 litres a min if it's the twin Reich which isn't going to blow your head off but should be enough for a reasonable rate of flow for your vans needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 Derek was right about the pump I had. It has now been replaced and water is flowing well. Dismantling the pump - hammer and hacksaw - indicates the fresh water channel was clean. The two 'cylinders' either side which seem to house the electrics, and presumably the pumps, were full of black water although the two fans were clean. Can I assume, therefore, that water got into the electrics/pump and this caused the failure. If so, how could this happen? I may be able to rule out frost damage because we've had fresh water for at least 2 months although in the last month, water pressure seemed down. There is no sign of damage in the freshwater water channel. We had been motorhoming in hot weather - over 30C in Brecon - with low water levels [but not empty] so has the pump overheated and damaged a seal? Or is it likely to be the pump casing not being correctly sealed or being knocked once too often. No sign of obvious damage. I'd welcome any insight on what might have caused the problem so I can minimise the future risk - although the cost of a pump is manageable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 I would think there has to have been a leak, causing the water to get to the pump electrics. It could have been a very tiny leak. Probably a (relatively rare) manfacturing fault Don't forget to buy a second pump to carry as a spare! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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